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1989 2.9L Ranger Build


RangerSVT

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GT-40 5.0L EFI W/AC
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I meant maf, but if youve made a decision to stay and tune, that's Kool...

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1989
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2.9L
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Manual
Ok. After talking with dcindc its easier to just buy the parts to make the system already there work correctly.

Thanks for the input tho. Its good to know people actually read what I post lol

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1989
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2.9L
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Manual
Quick update:

I've been busy with school and athletics but I've been looking over a few issues I've been having.

The engine always used to have valve tick even though it's been completely rebuilt. That is until one day I red lined the crap out of it trying to get out of a parking space in the snow. Don't know what I did or how but valve tick is almost completely gone. Engine seems to run much smoother also.

I also found the source of my oil leak. Everything mentioned earlier in the thread checked out. But when I was inspecting, I found what I was told is an oil level sensor. It wasn't attached to anything and I couldn't find were out would go. It looked cut but nothing lead to it, so I removed it and replaced it with a threaded plug. The oil was leaking through a bad seal in the assembly. Leak has been FIXED!!!!!

I have everything ordered to lower my truck. Just need to install it now. I have the JDM 3/4 kit.

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WhiteLX

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1989
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2.9L
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Automatic
Very interested to see where this goes. :icon_thumby: I have a T3 turbo, intercooler, cartech adjustable FMU, and an XR4Ti external high pressure pump. I imagine I could do a remote mounted setup pretty cheaply with the parts I have already. Main part I would have to purchase would be the oil return pump.

What is your plan to make the MAP system work? Has anyone attempted to tune these with a chip? I have a Moates Quarterhorse I could pull out of one of my other cars temporarily till I got the tune squared away and then burn a chip for the final tune with the other Moates equipment I have.
 
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1989
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Ranger
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2.9L
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Manual
Update:
Just installed a crane coil and ignition module. Ill say that my stock coil must have been bad because it was a night and day difference. Also had a bad oil sender that made my gauge bounce all over the place. Also had my ac charged.

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Mr. Tarkanian

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Very cool thread, looking forward to updates.

Has this ever been done on a 4x4 2.9?
 
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Manual
Hey thanks tarkanian. Its good to see people backing my build

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1989
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Manual
Ok so I've done some serious work over the past week. I will update with pictures when I get to my computer.

I finally installed the djm 3/4 lowering kit that I've had for almost 6 months. I had a rotten passenger side shock tower that I replaced with a factory replacement. I also had to completely replace the rear suspension. The springs were warped due to overloading by the previous owner. Also all the hangers and shackles were rusted and locked in place.

I also managed to get my hands on some steering knuckles from a 1997 ford ranger so i have the dual piston calipers.

I also painted the front springs and they look great!

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1989
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Ranger
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2.9L
Transmission
Manual
Still haven't gotten to a computer but I have to ask. What wheel and tire combo works. Looking at 15x7 wheels so what tire and backspacing works for this?

Stock rear is fine but front rub a bit. I have 215/75-R15 and 14x6 rims.
 
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1989
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Manual
Ok so I finally got some time to work on the truck. I pulled the heads back out to find the exhaust side valve seals popped off (cheap quality.) I replaced them with some felpro seals and put the heads back on. Also painted the headers with some VHT blue and am gonna bake them in my uncles kiln.

I also noticed my trans crossmember hanger is bad on the passenger side and the bushings need to be replaced. I haven't been able to find any replacement parts. Are these no longer available?
 
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1989
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Ranger
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2.9L
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Manual
The heads ended up not fitting in the kiln so I had to cook them on the truck. It ended up working out great and they look amazing still. Only problem with them now is the collector bangs up against the frame when the engine is lugging or way up in the revs.

I also guess im just out of luck on those crossmembers? Oh well, ill just hard mount it somehow.

Now that everything is running good its time to start looking at the turbo equipment. I still have my list somewhere so ill start collecting parts. Still trying to figure the turbo location and how my intake will work so it doesnt suck up a ton of water or get crazy dusty. Maybe a snorkel or something between the cab and bed....
 
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1989
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Ranger
Engine Size
2.9L
Transmission
Manual
Gonna try to mount a chunk of rubber from a tire or something in order to reduce the noise and shock.

Also, a fun fact: the heater hoses can be put on backward. I always figured it was a universal thing but I had them switched and got absolutely no heat. Flipped them and the heat came on instantly.
 
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NJ
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1989
Make / Model
Ranger
Engine Size
2.9L
Transmission
Manual
Hey yall,

just getting back to my build due to getting rear ended which set me back a bit. I was getting my parts list back together and i noticed the boost retard claims that you have to purchase the 2 bar map sensor in order to use the timing retard control feature. is this true and wouldnt i have to get a tune to get it to run smooth?

it makes sense cause the 1 bar map wouldnt be able to notice anything above atmosphere and a 2 bar would cause the computer to register a lower voltage.

does anyone have any info on this?
 

DCinDC

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I had forgotten all about the map sensor.

First off it is a GM Map sensor not a Ford. Second, the 3 bar is expensive due to being on only a few select GM turbo'd cars. The 2 bar is dirt cheap and available everywhere.

The new map sensor ONLY goes to the boost retard module, not the EEC.

No YOU DO NOT NEED A TUNE. The whole thing is "tuned" with the FMU and the boost retard.
 
Joined
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Location
NJ
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ranger
Engine Size
2.9L
Transmission
Manual
So the sensor listed on summit racing with the controller isn't what I should get? And I only hook up a vacuum line to the truck?

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