Engine mount bolts removal

Johnnyboiranger22 · Jul 21, 2018

1991 ranger 2.3 Auto a4ld (Trying to jack the engine up and get oil pan out but i cant seem to cant get engine mount bolts to even bulge, Anyone know wrench or socket size? i I cant get a socket on there for the life of me what size wrench will work? I'm using a 11/16 I believe 3/4 is to big. now the second problem Im have are 2 bolts that are bolted from transmission to silver disc to the old pan and those things will not move either.

tomw · Jul 22, 2018

I would leave the mounts bolted to the engine block. There are fasteners that connect the mount to a bracket on the frame. Generally approachable from directly below. The mounts are on the engine when it is dropped in place in the factory, and plop onto the bracket, likely with a threaded shaft stuck into a hole in the bracket so a nut & washer can be fastened from below. Look there.
You may need some socket wrenches of the metric variety as the engine is metric.(for the most part). If nothing else get a budget set at Harbor Freight.
The bolts for the bellhousing/pan connection will have to be loosened using a socket, I think. Get a 'breaker bar', roughly 2' long, for leverage, or get an impact wrench. Battery powered impacts, 1/2" drive, are not too expensive. Impact socket sets from HF are low budget. Remember righty tighty, lefty loosey.
In most, there is a sheet metal plate between the block and the flywheel or flex plate. It will stay in place until the flywheel/flex plate is removed. Automatics have flex plates.
If you are pulling the engine, are you leaving the transmission in place? Might be easier to pull as an assembly. The torquing of the pan lower bolts to the bellhousing is a procedure as you have a 90 degree assembly to make, and tightening one prevents the other from moving things to tighten the other. Get instructions so you don't break the 'ears' off something. Perhaps tighten-loosen-tighten... some sequence to allow movement.
tom

scotts90ranger · Jul 22, 2018

that nut has a 18mm hex, wrench is definitely easier to get on... I don't think there is a standard equivalent of an 18mm, there's a few 18mm fasteners strewn about on Rangers, the other odd size you'll run into is 15mm, some random 7mm for gauge cluster, dash related and the gas fill tube bracket to the bed...

Johnnyboiranger22 · Jul 22, 2018

Looks like i was able to get one engine mount bolt off, but other (drivers side is being stubborn), i took a impact air wrench to the flex plate bolts and those things will not bulge, any other way to get those bolts off? Heat them up?

Craig0320 · Jul 22, 2018

3/8 ratchet with shallow socket and cheater bar. Or use a wrench and attach another wrench to it as a cheater bar. Air wrench only has so much torque.

Johnnyboiranger22 · Jul 22, 2018

Well guys i got the oil pan down horray! now just have to tackle driver side motor mount and lift engine up and clean it up, Should i replace oil pump while i'm down there or not? I probably should do rear main seal?

tomw · Jul 23, 2018

You can take the pump apart and inspect for clearance between the gears and housing, and the 'faces' of the gear teeth. If you have a 'rotor' pump, some of the same applies.
Wear on the side plates or end plates can occur, and the teeth can get some cavitation damage over time.
Unless the transmission is removed from the engine block, completely, you won't have access to the rear main seal. If it is not seeping, I would leave well enough alone.
tom

Engine mount bolts removal

Johnnyboiranger22

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