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A quick question about a '96 Ranger


dude55man

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Mark_88

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The frames are independent from the body and box so you can just lift them off and either fix the frame or replace it.

I couldn't see the frame in any of those images so you may need to crawl under or get a garage to hoist it up...once in the air you will be able to see the mount points and frame easily.

Take some pics of the problem area and post them if you can...many on here are experienced with this kind of problem and can usually tell you what to look for and probably determine if it is fixable.

My 96 frame was almost in mint condition but it looked rough on the outside...just surface rust but some locations the seem to rot out faster...

You can add your location and other details to your profile under he UserCP setting above...location matters...somewhat...engine size and other details not so much.
 

Coldair

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What's wrong with it ?
 

dude55man

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Well I got in an accident, and was really hoping I could save it, I had to let it go, I do have pics of what it looked like.
Before
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ids544vnvs90rtu/2017-03-03 15.17.33.jpg?dl=0
After
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ih29c0pcgi11uqp/2017-09-07 16.49.23.jpg?dl=0
When I removed the hood, fender, etc
https://www.dropbox.com/s/t26sr4cthyobshp/2017-09-23 14.06.29.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ynbm6mfe1a9q7jd/2017-09-23 14.06.36.jpg?dl=0



Edit: Sorry for the stupid late reply. Life caught up with me
 
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rusty ol ranger

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As a side note, i had pry one of the rustyiest rangers known to man, and besides shackles and crossmembers (both replaceable) the rails themselves were fine.

I dont think ive ever seen a ford truck frame actually rot to the point it was unsafe or unfixable. The sole exception being the 80-82 F100/150s with the "swiss cheese" frame.

 

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That all looks fixable if you want to put twice as much money into it as what you could buy a new ranger. You'd be looking at a fender, bumper, front clip, probably a radiator, alignment, possibly steering/suspension parts all for the hope of it being fine and driving like it used to before the wreck. The frame may or may not be bent as well. So you are looking at a lot of money especially if you aren't fixing it yourself. if you are fixing it yourself then you might be ok. did the air bags go off? how fast were you going? how did the wreck even happen?
 

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As a side note, i had pry one of the rustyiest rangers known to man, and besides shackles and crossmembers (both replaceable) the rails themselves were fine.

I dont think ive ever seen a ford truck frame actually rot to the point it was unsafe or unfixable. The sole exception being the 80-82 F100/150s with the "swiss cheese" frame.

I have one in my back yard that is rotted to the point where it can't be fixed properly. It wasn't unsafe yet, but it wasn't going to be many more years, and so I found another, clean, truck and kinda mashed the two into one.
 

rusty ol ranger

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I have one in my back yard that is rotted to the point where it can't be fixed properly. It wasn't unsafe yet, but it wasn't going to be many more years, and so I found another, clean, truck and kinda mashed the two into one.
I will say, my definition of "to rotted to be safe" is pretty liberal.
 

Andy D

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I've seen Ranger frames rotted in 2 at the gas tank. Same thing happened to Grand Wags. Same darn "coffin" protecting a plastic tank,trapping dirt. Having fixed 5 GWs, I knew the Rat's mushy left frame rail could be fixed. The repair is fugly, but functional. I just picked through my " stuff too good to throw away" and came up 1/2, 7/16, 3/8, 12mm and 10mm hardware to replace the rivets I took out. I made a very crude angle bar that followed the web and lower flange out of a 5'x1' piece of 1/8? thick heating oil tank. I did the area around the LF cab support first . Then the back around the tank failed inspection. Off comes bed and out comes gas tank with its own set of troubles. I fish plated from 2' forward of the LR cab support to the front spring hanger. I cut the web to form the kick and plated that with 1/4 solid rivets in a long handled rivet tool from HF. A real hack repair. Short on money, material, tools and talent. Endless time. :D
 

rusty ol ranger

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Short on money, material, tools and talent. Endless time. :D
Story of my life.

Never underestimate a resourceful redneck with a scrap pile and a good welder.
 

Denisefwd93

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As a side note, i had pry one of the rustyiest rangers known to man, and besides shackles and crossmembers (both replaceable) the rails themselves were fine.

I dont think ive ever seen a ford truck frame actually rot to the point it was unsafe or unfixable. The sole exception being the 80-82 F100/150s with the "swiss cheese" frame.

It would be great to have a sticky post about frame inspection and repair because so many of these trucks are junked because of it!!
 

Denisefwd93

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stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
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It would be great to have a sticky post about frame inspection and repair because so many of these trucks are junked because of it!!
What gauge / thickness metal should I pick up for my welder friend on the frame repair??
 

adsm08

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What gauge / thickness metal should I pick up for my welder friend on the frame repair??
Try to match the original for thickness.

How much do you need? I have a good amount of frame metal sitting around the shop.
 

Denisefwd93

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Try to match the original for thickness.

How much do you need? I have a good amount of frame metal sitting around the shop.
Well I know we're going to go from the middle of the rear shackles to the bumper brackets and maybe the cross pieces, there is a big automotive scrap yards near him you're like 2 hours West of the Poconos I'm not quite sure where you're at anymore I know you moved it would be cool to meet you also!
But how thick is the frame metal? 3/16"?
 

adsm08

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3/16 to 1/4 sounds about right.

That is a big chunk of frame to replace.
 

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