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1998 & Newer specific Ranger problems.....


cbxer55

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Vehicle Year
1998
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Ford
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3.0
Transmission
Automatic
98 Ranger SPORT I've owned since 2001, when it had 10,000 miles on it. Now has headed for 147,000 miles after 16 years. Troubles, yeah I've had some. Not too many of the ones on this topic though.

1. Intermittent crank but no start. Happens so infrequently I've not been able to figure out why.

2. Noisy power steering pump. Replaced it and the new one is just as bad, so I live with it.

3. Frequently eats IACs. The most recent one I put on is a Hitachi, Auto Zone's premium part. Really nice and it's lasted almost two years now. That's a record for my truck. Still noisy though. So is the one on my Lightning, so I just live with it.

4. Very small oil leak, not sure where from. Been there for many years now. Doesn't leak when running, only when stopped and parked facing downhill. Park it facing up hill, no leak. Someone told me to check the dipstick o-ring.

5. Front end needs rebuilding after 19 years, noisy clanking ball joints. Tires are still wearing good though, so I'm holding off until it's warmer.

6. The valve that routes internal air (blend door) is broken. Been that way for some years now. I know there is a way to fix it without tearing the dash out. Will look into it this year. Remove the glove box, and put a screw through the broken parts.

7. Air conditioning gave out some years ago. Don't really miss it as I prefer driving with the windows down anyways. The AC works on my Lightning, but I never use it.

I'm aware of the cam position sensor problem. Haven't had a problem with it, YET! I do, once a month, remove the sensor and hose some oil down there. Don't know if it will keep it from being a problem. Not planning on replacing it either. When the motor blows, I'll deal with it. Either scrap the truck, or deal with a new motor. Not sure now, depends on when it happens and my situation at that time.

Other than that? Still has the factory alternator, water pump and started. Back brakes were changed at 146,000 miles and still had shoe on them, changed them anyways. Drums were good and didn't need turning. Front brakes were changed at 120,000 miles and like the rear, the rotors didn't need turning. I do have some vibration at highway speeds. Assumed it was tires, but don't think so. Suspect either the drive shaft or the rear -end. Not sure. Don't drive it on the highway much, and don't drive it very far as I have the Lightning for that. Battery has been changed three times in 16 years, most recently last November.

It's a keeper, I like it. Probably couldn't get 500 bucks if I tried to sell it. So I just keep fixing what's wrong, keep the Check Engine light off, and beat on it like a red-headed stepchild. :shok::D
 
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AC

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cam sensor in the 3.0s
I second this. had a CEL on for a while. pulled the camshaft positions sensor and tested it. it would test fine on the multi meter then fail. Replaced the complete sensor and that was it. still have a slight misfire. it doesn't have a glass smooth idle.
 

trader007

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98 Ranger SPORT I've owned since 2001, when it had 10,000 miles on it. Now has headed for 147,000 miles after 16 years. Troubles, yeah I've had some. Not too many of the ones on this topic though.

1. Intermittent crank but no start. Happens so infrequently I've not been able to figure out why.

2. Noisy power steering pump. Replaced it and the new one is just as bad, so I live with it.

3. Frequently eats IACs. The most recent one I put on is a Hitachi, Auto Zone's premium part. Really nice and it's lasted almost two years now. That's a record for my truck. Still noisy though. So is the one on my Lightning, so I just live with it.

4. Very small oil leak, not sure where from. Been there for many years now. Doesn't leak when running, only when stopped and parked facing downhill. Park it facing up hill, no leak. Someone told me to check the dipstick o-ring.

5. Front end needs rebuilding after 19 years, noisy clanking ball joints. Tires are still wearing good though, so I'm holding off until it's warmer.

6. The valve that routes internal air (blend door) is broken. Been that way for some years now. I know there is a way to fix it without tearing the dash out. Will look into it this year. Remove the glove box, and put a screw through the broken parts.

7. Air conditioning gave out some years ago. Don't really miss it as I prefer driving with the windows down anyways. The AC works on my Lightning, but I never use it.

I'm aware of the cam position sensor problem. Haven't had a problem with it, YET! I do, once a month, remove the sensor and hose some oil down there. Don't know if it will keep it from being a problem. Not planning on replacing it either. When the motor blows, I'll deal with it. Either scrap the truck, or deal with a new motor. Not sure now, depends on when it happens and my situation at that time.

Other than that? Still has the factory alternator, water pump and started. Back brakes were changed at 146,000 miles and still had shoe on them, changed them anyways. Drums were good and didn't need turning. Front brakes were changed at 120,000 miles and like the rear, the rotors didn't need turning. I do have some vibration at highway speeds. Assumed it was tires, but don't think so. Suspect either the drive shaft or the rear -end. Not sure. Don't drive it on the highway much, and don't drive it very far as I have the Lightning for that. Battery has been changed three times in 16 years, most recently last November.

It's a keeper, I like it. Probably couldn't get 500 bucks if I tried to sell it. So I just keep fixing what's wrong, keep the Check Engine light off, and beat on it like a red-headed stepchild. :shok::D
lol, 147k miles? I bought my 99 ranger 12 years ago, and it had 127k on it. Today it just turned 283k, and its running great. Still original motor, but I have done a ton of work to everything else over the years. The wheel bearings and ball joints up front go bad every 80k or so, so I have done those 3 times now. Whats weird is the back wheel bearings and seals are still original and working fine. I have replaced the rear-end fluid twice...

Just too much to list.. .but the best thing about these trucks are the cheap parts and easy to replace them. 150k is nothing! All it means is you're due for some maintenance work!
 

jeedee

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Rear door latches refuse to open the door....and (a repeat)..."door ajar" light stays on.
 

ranger356

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96
97
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00
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ford
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98 326k 4.0ohv
eats front end parts especially wheel bearings even tried changing spindles same problem.
belt tensioners dont last usually replaced 1 a year
other than that its been great until the headgasket blew but hey at 326k id be ready to give up too
 

Ranger850

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Born with a 3.0, looking for a donor V8
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Stock 2"
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Stock
My credo
Doing things wrong, until I get it right.
My clutch pedal assembly will not stay together. I have a thread going about it.
 

Doofy

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Replied to this Thread way back in August 2008. Still haven't had any major problems. At 111K miles, I'm beginning to contemplate replacing the cam synchronizer even though there are no squeaks or chirps. Been an awesome little truck.
 

Geek Hillbilly

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My 1999 Ranger XLT Standard Cab 2 wheel drive (2.5 4 cylinder engine ) has a problem with the Battery warning light staying on.I replaced the stock 90 amp alternator with a 130 amp,new battery,checked all the wiring -you name it.I see the voltage gauge being right where it should be and I have mounted a digital 12 volt gauge on the dash (double sided foam tape is your friend) and plug this into one of the 12 volt outlets (Yes the one with the actual cigarette lighter) . I am showing 14.5 volts after starts with the reading hovering right at 14.2 while driving. No check engine light is on (It works BTW). I keep wondering if this is a floating point ground problem.
 
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Saddle Tramp

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2WD / 4WD
2WD
The only major problem I had was the thermostat housing coming apart. It's made of three different pieces glued together and it delaminated on me. Luckily there is an aftermarket part made out of aluminum. It's one piece so you don't have to worry about it again.

The minor problem for me is the soft paint. It scratches easily.
 

RangerVet

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From here on down it's uphill all the way!
65,000 mile '05 Ranger Edge, 3.0, 2wd, 2 door, 4:10 rear end, non locking. It has been an Arizona farm truck most of its life. Ford dealer unable to bleed clutch. Their transmission man says to just live with it as his Ranger has the same problem. New clutch setup to include new remote system. I found a YouTube how to fix but the mechanic did not watch it. Jerks.
I added a couple of pedal pads to make it easier for my short leg to get it all the way to the floor.
Otherwise a great truck in the 4 months of ownership.
 

Mike Tonon

Guest
07 Ranger 4x4 slave cylinder issues! ?

It was under warranty the first time. This time, at only 80,000 miles, the thing seems to have a slight leak. Mostly in cold weather. I have to pump the clutch when it’s cold out, every time I drive it. It should be good for 120,000 miles or around the life of a clutch, not 25,000 and 55,000 miles!

It also smells like an old shoe in the cab, every time it rains for a while. I have no idea where waters coming in, because everything I can see is dry. The third brake light isn’t leaking at all, surprisingly.

Other than that, My Ranger has been great! Great paint! More rust resistant than my 87 was. The interior is 2” deeper than my 87 and is ideal sized for me, being 6’ tall. I have the 7’ bed, which is great. This has been like a cross between a small and midsize truck and has served me very well!

If anyone has any recommendations for the absolute best slave cylinder I can use when I have a new clutch put in (don’t recommend me a Ford slave, obviously they’re junk) and where water might be getting into my cab, I’d appreciate it.
 

pjtoledo

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the NAPA slave & clutch stuff I put in 6-7 years and 173,000 miles ago is still working.
 

Mike Tonon

Guest
pjtoledo, was it just a standard Napa product or something higher end?
 

1999Mazda Central Florida

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1999 Mazda B2500 (ie. Ford Ranger) 180K miles..... issue which I've had and seen elsewhere:
1) U-joints
2) vacuum lines deteriorated (allowing bypass to defrost vents)
3) spontaneous wiper activation (switch mechanism replaced x2)
4) bashed in driver side door due to cutting in too hard at gas station cement pillar....well, actually that one is just specific to me:rolleyes:
 

PacificGreen1998

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Location
Eustis Florida
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Size
3.0l Vulcan v6 with low miles...
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
stock since 1998
My credo
That one guy with ADHD and doesn't stop talking about cars.
Cab light sticks on oil your door latches and pivots.....get a oil squirter from ACE and get full synthetic 10w 20 or 5w 20 and use that.......but yes wiring on these damn +1998 trucks sucks.....and trans is meh......I has the 3.0l with the 4 speed auto.....I think its the fully electronic 4 speed auto cuz I forgot the technical name....my heater that I rarely use in Florida never seems to cause any problems.....
 

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