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Intermediate Starting


Jarrett Bradford

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I’ve looked around quite a bit but can’t really find anyone that has had the exact problem I have had. Or when looking up my issue it’s kinda hard to fit all of my symptoms into one google search so I figured if give it a shot here! I’ve got a 1994 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6. 114,000 miles. Whenever I start it in the morning or afternoon it’ll crank right up if it’s its first start of the day or if it’s sat for several hours before being started again. The problem occurs when I am running around town or just driving and will park in a parking lot to run into a restaurant or store. When I come out 10-30+ minutes later and try to start the truck it will once again start right up but very rough. It sound almost like it’s misfiring or somethin, shaking bad but once I give it gas a little it smooths out. Earlier today I started it and it ran for a few seconds and just shut off and upon starting it again had to floor it to keep it alive till it could run on its own. I have noticed it seems to do it more often in the summer when it’s hotter. I have no idea what the issue is. I’ve replaced the plugs, wires and the coil pack. I’ve used sea foam in the tank and the intake. I’ve tried several things. My fuel pump does seem a little noise. “I can hear it from the cab with windows down” while sitting idle. So I don’t know if that is cause for concern or not. Anything helps. Thanks!
 


RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

Whats the MPG been like lately?
Does it seem to be using more fuel?

Best guess, and it is a guess, is that fuel is leaking into the intake when engine is off.
If it sits long enough then that fuel evaporates so start up is easy.

If leaked fuel is still present then you have a flooded engine so you need to give it more air(throttle open) to get it to start or stay running until extra fuel is cleared out.

Warmer air needs less fuel than colder air, so summer air temps would make this "flooding" problem worse, if thats what it is

Which fits your symptoms

On the passenger side top front of the 4.0l engine is the Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR)
It behind the alternator
It has the Fuel Return hose AND a vacuum line attached
If the FPR starts to leak then gasoline will be suck into the intake in the vacuum line, so MPG would go down a bit, not alot because computer will see that in O2 sensor data, but there would be a drop.
When you shut off the engine there is 30psi fuel pressure at the engine, and this pressure would force gasoline thru the leaking FPR and into that vacuum line.
And into the intake, on restart engine cranking vacuum would suck in all the gasoline from that line, so flooded engine.
Find the FPR and check that vacuum line for gasoline, replace FPR if gasoline found in that line

Some tests to do
All fuel injection computers have a "Clear Flooded Engine" routine
In your model you activate it by turning on the key and pressing gas pedal down to the floor and hold it down all the way, so TPS(throttle position sensor) is above 4.5volts.
So these 3 things
key on(computer on)
0 RPMs, engine not running
4.5v from TPS
Computer is now in "Clear Flooded Engine", Fuel Injectors off, Spark on
Crank engine and you should get a NO START
As soon as you release gas pedal injectors will start up

Try it after engine sits overnight, make sure you get a no start
If engine starts then TPS is not at 4.5v,
Google: Ranger throttle cable mod
That will fix it

NOW with working "Clear Flooded Engine" routine you can do some testing
Try the routine on a hot restart, i.e. 10-30min, it should start up easier with injector off if there is already leaked fuel present.

Test for leaking fuel injector
Cold engine
Unplug 4 wire connector on coil pack, you want no spark
Or unhook all the spark plug wires at the spark plugs because you will be pulling out all the spark plugs.

Put computer into "Clear Flooded Engine"
Crank engine over a few times, 3 or 4 at least
Now pull spark plugs
They should ALL have DRY tips
If you see a WET tip then that cylinders injector is leaking.

This is assuming you have checked FPR's vacuum line, if not then do that FIRST
 
Last edited:

Denisefwd93

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stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
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My 93 4.0 Longbed was doing the same thing, it would always clear up.
I'm thinking that's what happened when the new owner called me two days after he bought it! [emoji849]
 

Jarrett Bradford

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Dude you were right on the money. I pulled off that vacuum line and it was full of fuel. I really appreciate the reply and the help. I’ll keep y’all posted on if that fixes it or not but so far it seems like you’re correct. Thankyou.
 

Jarrett Bradford

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Update

I got the replacement part in the other day and replaced it. (Motorcraft brand) I haven’t really had the time to drive around and let sit for 20-30 min before restarting. But I pulled the vacuum line to look the last few drives and there’s still definitely fuel in there. So I don’t know what to do? Bad part? Lol. I’m so lost.
 

RonD

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Did you clean out the vacuum line?

Vacuum is a negative pressure it can't "suck out" remaining gas if FPR is "working", because FPR is now a sealed connection, so just has the negative pressure not "flow".

Unhook vacuum line from FPR and start engine, that should "suck out" any remaining gasoline in the vacuum line.
Then before shutting off the engine check vacuum port on the FPR to make sure it isn't leaking out gasoline, if it is then you got a bad FPR.
Shut off engine and check vacuum port again, should stay dry
 

91stranger

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Could this same issue happen on a 3.0? my truck was having odd starting issues and every time I thought I had it fixed it would have another issue.
 

Nascarnutz

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did the fpr solve the problem? having a similar issue.
 

Jarrett Bradford

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Update 2

I replaced the FPR AGAIN (another Motorcraft part). I drove it around for a bit tonight while the engine was hot and it didn’t seem to have any fuel in the vacuum line when I pulled it back. Only time will tell. I did notice however that on the FPR I just removed, it had red colored fuel coming out of the vacuum side of the FPR. Would that suggest my Transmission Modulator has gone bad as well? I did notice the level of ATF has gone down so I added more. The truck never smokes or anything from the exhaust so maybe the Tranny Modulator has a slow leak on the vacuum side? I’m gonna do the exhaust soon so I’ll be able to get to the Modulator and Vacuum line when I remove the cats. So I’ll pull the line and check for leaks while I’m under there. I’ll update y’all when I drive more this week and tell if the FPR fixed my issues. Thanks!
 

RonD

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Yes, on the ATF in vacuum system, unless your running "farm" fuel :)
 

Jarrett Bradford

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Update 3

I thought I had it. The new new FPR is leaking fuel into the vacuum line now. Still starting rough obviously. I’m highly pissed. I am lost as to what the problem could be. I don’t even think the direct cause is the FPR anymore... what do y’all think??? And thankyou for all y’all a replied thus far. Especially you Ron! You’ve really given me hope:icon_twisted:
 
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