Chrwilkins30's build

Been on here for some time now and decided to start a build. I’ve got a small collection on parts that I’ve been collecting for the last few months. Funds are going to be tight. I have to collect money and only making average 220 a week does not go far after putting gas in plus its my DD and cannot be down for very long at a time. Sorry no pics from when I got it but it had some gay fiberglass running boards. Oh and the pics won’t be perfect quality because I don’t have a digital camera but pics are better that no pics.

Backstory: Got the truck a year before I could drive and loved it. Got it from a family members passing. It had the typical problem and I really didn’t know very much about working on cars. The brake lines where rusted out and steering whined but after inspection was only a rotted line. Need tire and then noticed really bad tire wear. But at the time didn’t know really anything. Well that’s what brought me to this site. I had to change balljoints and all tie rods and had no idea as to how. Fixed that and drove it for about a year and decided it was time to make some changes.

First got a brush guard of CL and some cheap Harbor freight lights. You can kinda see my original tire I purchased in this pic. They are firestone winterforce and did amazing in the snow even in 2WD.


Got some free 31 BFG’s and chopped the front fenders to fit with some flexy flares



More pics will come! I have some more pics just need to organize them.




UPDATE: Decided to keep all cost of parts to swap a d35 and 8.8 with complete overhauls.

Summitracing.com: Shocks, belltech 6400, FA600, SS brakelines--- $525.66
Broncograveyard.com: coil studs, pivot and radius arm bushings--- $92.46
Rockauto.com: All balljoints, tierods, wheel seals and adjusters--- $373.89
JamesOakEnterpries: G2 4.56 gears and Master kit--- $596.85
LKQ Junk yard: Dana 35 from 91 explorer and 8.8 from a 99--- $140.09
Ben for setting gears up: $200.00
Autozone: Forgotten front seals--- $20.00
RuffStuff specialties: Simple swap 8.8 and diff cover---$239.60
JamesOak Enterprises: Lift kit and spindle nuts--- $1264.95
Ebay New: Jeep hubs--- $241.61
Broncograveyard: leaf spring bushings and bump-stops--- $90.00
4wheelparts: lubelocker--- $31.00
Paint and Misc:---$40.00
Grand Total: 3829.11

Then came a little while ago when the POS a4ld decided to stop going into reverse and shifting in and out of over drive. Well that’s when the m5od trans i pick up on CL came in handy. Took me about a month to complete with work

Before


During




After

Saw this


And got this


Also in the pic bought more parts ordered new body mounts from Bronco graveyard and a PA 3inch BL from JCWhitney. Still need to buy the shift extender from summit.

50 views and no one has any input

Any ways a little while back picked up a jeep bumper and brand new KC's for $150



and made a roof light bar(got the idea from The_Dealer) and added some cheap lights from meijer 30 for 4.

Went to the JY and picked these puppies up to do a manual window conversion swap. Passenger has never worked and didnt want to mess with it. Got everything needed for $31. Going to put them in on Wednesday.



Going to do a write-up just for future persons wanting to get rid of power windows.

Well finally put some parts on.!

Original Poster: Chrwilkins30

Difficulty: 4 out of 10

Time to install: 1Hour to 3Hours


Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.


Brief Explanation: This modification is intended to get rid of power windows in Gen1 B2 and Rangers for manual windows

Background: Ever since ive owned the b2 the passenger window would never go down. I swapped different motors and still could'nt get it to work which made me believe and electrical problems. So instead i went to the JY and gathered everything for a manual conversion.


Tools Needed:
-1/4in long socket
-t20 torx bit
-7/16 socket and wrench
-5/16 wrench and socket
-1/2 and 1/4 rachet
-hammer
-phillips and flat head screw driver
grinder or drill (which ever you prefer)



Parts Needed:Grab some extras
-Manual window parts/ door panels
-1/4x 3/4 (10)
-1/4x (4)
-1/4in washers (20)

Step 1
Go to the JY and get all the parts needed for the swap


Step 2
Open your door and use a 1/4 long socket and remove the handle




Step 3
Use a phillips screwdriver and remove the power unit and the screw holding the cover on. then remove the opener.


Step 4
now put the window all the way down and pull the weather strip and remove the 2 phillips screw




Step 5
Remove the other bolt with a 7/16 socket, pull the weather strip back and pull the wing window out.



Step 6
Next remove the weather strip where the window slids threw.


Step 7
Next is the fun part. grab the grinder or drill and take out the rivets holding the window to the bracket. With the grinder get the head off and use a screwdriver and hammer and knock them through.


Step 8
Now grab a 5/16 wrench and remove the window motor at the bottom of the door. this is a very tight fit but will work. or do what I did and drill metal in front of the bolts and use a socket.



Step 9
Now remove the electrical connection.


Step 10
now remove the rivets holding the arm to the door.there is 3


Step 11
Pull the entire arm out as a unit.


Step 12
Put the new arm in using the 4x3/4


Step 13
put the allignment bar and window mount back in/


Step 14
bolt the window in but make sure to use the circle spacers that where on the previously


Step 15
Put the panel then the handles and knob


Now enjoy your working windows and do the otherside

Im the only one posting

well since i got off work at 3 i decided the try and get the jeep bumper on. started making brackets but quit becasue of crappy grinder blades taking forever. I have tomorrow off and will hopefully have the bumper on

On a side note: I need to get a band saw, anyone have any cheaper recommendations?

Build thread

Good gosh this is a nice BII. I have an '88BII Im restoring and building up. them j/y here sure do have some good parts too. I do a little at a time, as I have other hobbys Im into so have to take a break from the BII,,haha. thanks for this info,,I'll save it for when Im ready to do manual windows too. Nice Ride!!

Got my shipment from summit.
1. got new front pads to replace the AZ $12 pads that lasted 2years.

2. Bushwacker cut out fender flares to cut some of the rust on the rear quarters.

3. new 7.5 rear diff cover and fluid. Started to make a template for a rock cover just for the hell of it.

About forgot. Got my 220v arc welder plug swapped out so now I can actually do some real fab and not have to mess with the crappy HF flixcore. Just need to make an extension cord to run it outside. Also bought a dewalt drill, impact, and sawzaw kit so now I don't have to borrow a drill everytime I need one. I'll post pics of the just because. Planning to also get a drill press from HF on Monday for 45 bucks.

Well installed my front bushwacker flares and they really open the wheel well up. On Friday i will put on the rears. I bolted them up instead of rivets so if i ever need to take them off it will be easier.

On with the Pics-
Passenger Side:


Not me my buddy Zack

Driver Side:


Front:


Wheel Well:

Put the passenger rear on after work and will put the other on before work tomorrow. On with the pics.

Cut:


Side Shot:






Still need to remove silicone it and get rid of the rust underneath and along the rockers.

Doing the windows now, but the rivets came out but how did you get everything else out after the rivets?

Steeda04SVT said:

Just removed the rivets and trying to pry the button head part of the rivet off so that way I would hope I could then pull the window off of the spacers and bracket it sits in.

Click to expand...

not sure what the button head is but i found the best way is to remove the window with the mount that holds it on as a unit then grind the rivets that hold it to the window so that you have space on a bench to get the glass off the mount and not accidentally hit the glass with the grinder. Hope that helps.

So pretty much unbolt the whole window regulator and slide it up through the area where the window sits normally when it's in the full up position?