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Old 10-07-2011, 03:39 PM   #1
kegs
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Default 1989 Ford Ranger - replacing clutch need some help!

I'm working on a 1989 4x4 XLT Ford Ranger super cab that is fairly rusty (undercarriage has a lot of corrosion, though most of the bolts are o.k.)

The clutch is slipping really bad on it and it needs to be replaced. I figured I would do this myself. I am not new to working on automobiles, but it has been a long time since I messed with U joints, drive shafts, etc. I have never replaced a clutch on any vehicle before.

I read about switching out the 8" clutch to the 4 liter 10", but really don't want to do that as I'm on a tight budget and the extra parts would exceed it.

I would appreciate the help on some of the steps of this procedure.

I have a Haynes manual for this, but I seem to be missing details on how to remove the drive shafts.

What bolts are you guys taking off which drive shafts in order to get the transfer case out?

If you have a link to another thread to this, it maybe beneficial as well - I tried to use the search function, but no useful threads came up.

Thanks,
Kegs
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:32 PM   #2
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Remove the 4 bolts and 2 at the front pinion and then pull the front shaft out completely.

Then remove the 4 12-12 bolts at the front of the rear shaft and tie the shaft off to the frame with a bungie cord or something.
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Old 10-07-2011, 08:31 PM   #3
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if its a slip yoke front shaft you do not need to remove the front shaft at the pumpkin. also just remove the rear shaft at the axle this way you only have 4 bolts in total to remove( plus the transmission bolts possibly the tcase if your pulling it off and the trans crossmember.)
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Old 10-08-2011, 08:50 AM   #4
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My biggest problem is that I am term ignorant. To me a pumpkin is a big orange thing in a garden.

I am going to post some pics of this rig, label the bolts and maybe someone can have a look at the pics to explain which bolts are which.

I have read the section in the manual about doing this and there are no pictures. I reefed on one of the 12 point bolts (1/2", but thinking these might possibly be metric sized) and I could not budge it.

Am I going to need an impact wrench to get these puppies off?

Based on torque specs, it doesn't seem like this would be necessary. I know I applied at least 100 ft/lbs. to these bolts and they would not move.

Last edited by kegs; 10-08-2011 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 10-08-2011, 09:41 AM   #5
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Corrosion makes em stick hard. Get a can of pb blaster and spray the bolts, then wait for it to work in for a couple hours. They'll come out easier. Pumpkin is the rear diff.
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Old 10-08-2011, 10:30 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kegs View Post
My biggest problem is that I am term ignorant. To me a pumpkin is a big orange thing in a garden.

I am going to post some pics of this rig, label the bolts and maybe someone can have a look at the pics to explain which bolts are which.

I have read the section in the manual about doing this and there are no pictures. I reefed on one of the 12 point bolts (1/2", but thinking these might possibly be metric sized) and I could not budge it.

Am I going to need an impact wrench to get these puppies off?

Based on torque specs, it doesn't seem like this would be necessary. I know I applied at least 100 ft/lbs. to these bolts and they would not move.
They are 12 mm, which is not quite as big as a 1/2 inch.

There should not be a single standard sized bolt head on your truck, it's all metric heads. As for the torque, a double wrench should get them off. You may need a poor man's impact (a wrench and a hammer).

The actual torque spec is irrelevant. Between the rust and the thread locker, they are on there much tighter than what they were tightened to.


As for gribly's idea of just spraying them with PB, just spray everything with PB and then come back to the job in 2 days. It will make everything easier.


Alternatively, you can drive through a pond of the stuff, if you can find it.
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Last edited by adsm08; 10-08-2011 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 10-08-2011, 10:37 AM   #7
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on those 12pt bolts, it's not corrosion holding them in place it's the loctite, if you have a butane torch heat the flange side for about 30 seconds with that (less if you have a propane torch) and it will come out a LOT easier, also hitting the other end of the wrench with a hammer helps out...

For the front drive shaft you will need a torx bit where it goes into the axle, there are splines on the transfer case side so it will just slide out.
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