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Old 02-21-2012, 04:15 PM   #1
Mr. Tarkanian
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Default Your ultimate BOB (bug-out-bronco)

Well, I'm starting to think I could turn a BII into a really good BOB. Just a simple question for you folks: I'm wanting to go with a carb'd, point-ignited engine when my 2.9 fails. What would be a better engine for a zombie truck?

2.8L:
Lighter
Easier to swap
Easier on fuel (maybe?)

5.0L
Much more torque
Easier to find parts for
Cooler? More durable?



I'm more concerned about durability, reliability, and reasonable fuel mileage, than I am about maximum horsepower. Is 15 mpg attainable with a carb'd V8? Also, whats a good transmission to consider?

I would probably be driving the truck semi-regularly, and would like to have a simple, reliable truck that I can count on when the chips are down. Give me any ideas ya got. Thanks folks.
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:21 PM   #2
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4.0 and a4ld in my b2. with 4.56's and 33's (well 32.5's). on my last tank i got 18 mpgs in town.

now as far as when chips are down. i'd do the carb'ed v8. i was NEVER a fan of the 2.8's
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:27 PM   #3
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I would forget the points, just run a solid state ignition and be done with it. Go from something that needs changed once a year to something that might need changed once every decade if you are unlucky and you never have to fiddle with. For points the rear dizzy on the 2.8 would be more irritating than the front dizzy on a 302 however.

If you have a fresh 2.8 I wouldn't be afraid to run it, probably get better gas milage than a 5.0... but 5.0's are laying all over gods green earth for parts though...

I ran my 2.8 hot, out of oil until it wouldn't run anymore... she would always crank back up. Give it awhile to seat the rings back in and away you go again. I don't know if the 302 is or isn't more durable but that 2.8 can take a beating
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Old 02-21-2012, 09:52 PM   #4
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The 2.8L is a really good motor. My B2 has a 5.0L in it, but it was in there when I got it. A 2.8L duraspark would be a great setup, just keep a spare duraspark setup in an EMP proof container. Also, 5.0L setups in the Ranger & B2 tend to be more prone to overheating.
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:59 PM   #5
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I think the torque curve is kinda high on the 2.8 2.9 motors.To me they don't have that relaxed way of going down the road that the 5.0 has.
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:34 AM   #6
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The main reason I'm considering the 2.8 is that I'm not sure which trans would be best behind the 5.0L. I have the option of the AOD, which may be tough to adapt to a 4x4, a T5, which is in the same boat, or a ZF 5 speed, which would require a clutch system fabrication. Has anybody got the 5.0L/C4 swap? Ever tested the mpg with it? I have even considered a 700R4 swap, but I'm unsure about that as well. If I could get DECENT mileage (no, i'm not expecting 20mpg) with a C4 or C6, I'll just go that route.

With the 2.8, I could either build my A4LD, or swap in one of the Japanese 5 speeds without much hassle. I'm really not even considering computer controlled stuff right now. I'm not overly worried about EMP, but it's always something to think about (main reason I'm looking into points ignition).

A 4BT would be nice, but thats out of my league.

Any more input?
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Old 02-22-2012, 01:26 PM   #7
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I have a C5 in mine (glorified C4), with 3.73 gears and 31" tires she is churning about 2700 down the highway at 55mph right on the verge of opening up the secondaries... milage sucks enough I haven't bothered to figure it.

If I ever find an M5OD I am going to latch onto it. 300/302/4.2L F-150's all came with them and the 97+ F-150's have a more desirable shift tower which is interchangable with the earlier trans. It would take the same fullsize t-cases than a 4wd AOD would use.

For something like this I think a manual would be more desirable than an automatic.

Unless you get something like a Petronix ignitor for your points dizzy I highly do not recommend running points.
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:35 PM   #8
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slant 6? durable as hell, get a 73-75 one, they have forged internals but will do good on unleaded gasoline. finding a trans tho is gona be hard, if your up to it, a 300 ci ford i6 is the most reliable durable beast ever!but there long as hell.... 2.8s are as common as other engines and arn't known for there MPGs, and IIRC, they were never points, so youd have to rig something up, personaly id go with electronic ignition and keep a spare ignition box wrapping in tinfoil.
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:14 AM   #9
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Sorry for re-opening an old thread, but the EMP issue has started to get me thinking about what all I would need to make my 84 Bronco 2 EMP proof. I know I'd have to do some better searching on my B2 as of right now I'm not sure if its been durasparked or not, if there's a way to tell please let me know. I know the computer is in it, and not sure if it really does anything as the relay by the computer started malfunctioning this past winter so I threw the relay away, and it still runs, and drives, actually better than before. I'm not very electronically or electrically smart when it comes to these computer systems in vehicles, but I'm kind of thinking that the computer is no longer doing anything. So if I have to worry about an EMP and I go through all the trouble getting it durasparked, and an EMP hits it will destroy my duraspark setup as well, is there any point in really converting it over? I can't see where the computer is doing anything. Really wish I had someone around that is knowledgeable on these 2.8L engines that could look at this thing and tell me better what is going on with it because all I know is it runs and drive great, and I've disconnected stuff from the carburetor and it runs just fine. However from what I understand is the computer is also connected to the distributor, and if that's the case the computer must still somewhat function or I wouldn't think the truck would run at all.

Duraspark conversion seems a bit over my head when it comes to messing with wiring. I don't have the money to repair stuff, and I don't want to end up with a box on wheels sitting in my driveway that I can't use.

Anyone with some better knowledge would be a great help in this EMP protection idea.
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:47 PM   #10
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EMPs cause high voltage in circuits and wires, similar to what Solar flares can cause in the electrical distribution grid.

The metal body and frame shields most vehicle components from this type of electrical issues, so a corvette might not survive, lol.

There has been little testing on EMPs and cars/trucks, at least published testing, I would think the Military would have done extensive tests.

The tests that have been done resulted in cars/trucks that were not running at the time of the EMP started and ran fine after, so no effect.
Some of the cars/trucks that were running did stall at higher EM Pulses but restarted afterwards or a few restarted after computer was reset(battery unhooked and then hooked back up)

Metal buildings are better than concrete to protect against EMPs, so storing things in a Metal building or shed/container would be best.

Diesel engines don't have ignition systems, they do have fuel pumps and starter motors, but these don't seem to the effected electrical parts in an EMP.

Biggest issue, IMO, for an EMP and cars and trucks is that the electrical grid would be shut down so no gas stations would be working, so if you normally drive a distance from home then always have a 1/2 tank of fuel, or what is required to "get home"

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