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Old 04-29-2012, 06:43 PM   #1
cajunman87
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Default clutch system wont bleed out

My exhaust pipe melted a hole in the hard plastic line that runs from the master to the slave cylinder. I cut the bad section out and put a brass compression union from Lowe's to splice the two pieces of line together. I know that these ranger clutches are hard to bleed but I cant seem to get enough air out of the system to get it into gear. I'm pretty sure that my union is not leaking, I was wondering if anybody had any tips on a good way to more effectively bleed out the system.
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:51 PM   #2
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replace the line and bench bleed the system.
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Old 04-29-2012, 07:01 PM   #3
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Take a large syringe and pull the plunger out and replace the reservoir with it, fill it up and put the plunger back in, have someone open the bleeder while you ram fluid down into the system, this is the most consistent method I've found.
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Old 04-29-2012, 07:56 PM   #4
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Default

The last time i removed the master i bench blead it, im kicking myself in the ass for not doing it this time. After about an hour of bleeding i have enough pedal to be able to drive it. Im going to drive on it like this for a day or two and try to shake loose some more air bubbles and bleed it some more.
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Old 04-29-2012, 09:01 PM   #5
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Default

I dicked with mine for 2 days.... Then fixed it in five minutes.

I pulled the snap ring where the plunger going into the housing inside the cab, pulled the plunger out just enough to let the air out and a few drops of fluid to come out pushed it back in and put the snap ring back in. Done didn't have to crawl back under the truck or anything.
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Old 04-29-2012, 09:53 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Hahnsb2 View Post
Take a large syringe and pull the plunger out and replace the reservoir with it, fill it up and put the plunger back in, have someone open the bleeder while you ram fluid down into the system, this is the most consistent method I've found.
I like this idea.

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Originally Posted by 86 slo-vo View Post
I dicked with mine for 2 days.... Then fixed it in five minutes.

I pulled the snap ring where the plunger going into the housing inside the cab, pulled the plunger out just enough to let the air out and a few drops of fluid to come out pushed it back in and put the snap ring back in. Done didn't have to crawl back under the truck or anything.
I've done this and it works.

I have not tried the bench bleeding yet.
I've removed the master from the firewall and tilted it to get the bubbles up to the line.
Also I've made a vacuum bleeder from a mason jar and two 'm' style air fittings, using engine vacuum. This works on brakes too.
I like the vacuum bleeder best so far, the syringe sounds good too.

Richard
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