How to Install a 130 amp Alternator in Your Ranger

Original Poster: Colin

Difficulty: 2 out of 10

Time to install: Under an hour

Vehicle: 1998 Mazda B4000

Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.

Brief Explanation: Although about 30% larger physically, the 130 amp alternator is a direct bolt-on upgrade with no modifications needed. My 95 amp alternator was starting to fail in my truck. When I went in to the parts store to get a new one, the guy at the counter told me the 130 amp was the the same price. Needless to say I got the 130 amp one.



Tools Needed:- 8mm, 10mm, and 1/2" sockets
- 3/8" and 1/4" ratchets
- 3" 3/8" extension
- small flathead screwdriver
- trim removal tool (for the Chirstmas tree pin)

Parts Needed:
- 130 amp alternator



- new belt (optional)

Removal:

Step 1: Disconnect the battery. (If you feel the need to do so)

Step 2: Using the 8mm socket and 1/4" ratchet, loosen the hose clamps on the air intake hose. Undo the electrical connectors so you can move the hose out of the way.

Step 3: Using the 3/8" ratchet move the belt tensioner counter-clockwise to relieve belt tension and remove the belt. (You may want to make a drawing of your belt routing if your sticker on the rad support is missing/unreadable)

Step 4: With the 3/8" ratchet, 1/2" socket and extension remove the 3 bolts holding the alternator. (Penetrating fluid may be helpful) There's a Christmas tree pin holding a coolant hose on the side of the alternator, pop it off.

Step 5: Using the 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet remove the main power cable. (If you didn't disconnect the battery, wrap the end in a rag to prevent shocks) With the small flathead undo the two connectors.


Installation

Step 6: Reconnect the two connectors and the power cable.

Step 7: Line up the alternator on the motor, start the bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading and ensure proper alignment. Pop the Christmas tree pin back in the hole on the alternator.

Step 8: Tighten the bolts. They don't need to be reefed on, just good and tight.



Step 9: Re-install the belt, make sure its routed properly. I used a new belt. My old belt was still in decent shape so I'm keeping it as an emergency back-up.

Step 10: Re-install the intake hose. Make sure you tighten the hose clamps and re-connect all connectors.



All done!

Step 1: Disconnect the battery. (If you feel the need to do so)

Click to expand...

ALWAYS disconnect the battery when doing any electrical work. Negative cable should always be disconnected first.

Nice writeup other than that.

Thank you.

Normally I would agree with you, however all the certified mechanics I know agree with me that it is not nescessary for this task.

whats the part number on the alternator? what applications will the upgrade work on??

I never disconnect the battery...

kunar said:

whats the part number on the alternator? what applications will the upgrade work on??

Click to expand...

Part number was WIL 90025065 $166

Here's the Tech Library link for alternator info:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/alternator.htm

I realize this is a very old thread, but it fits the question I can't see answered anywhere else:
I have a 99 3.0L FFV. This has the 95A alternator. I read that upgrading to a 200A requires upgrading the wires to 0 gauge. Of course 130A is much less than 200A - but it's also much more than 95A! Is there no safety concern with the "direct replacement" upgrade from 95A to 130A? If not, why not?
Thanks!
Todd

I never upgraded my wiring, drove it for over a year before I scrapped the truck, never had any electrical issues. If you really wanted to upgrade you wiring it wouldn't be that hard, just search in the electrical section and I'm sure you'll find a thread on it.

If you don't need 130A it won't put out 130A either...

I went from 65A to 130A alternators, I suspect my power requirements have gone down rather than up though.

85_Ranger4x4 said:

If you don't need 130A it won't put out 130A either...

Click to expand...

this ^ depends on how much electrical crap you're adding to your truck

And thank you for making my write-up a tech article!

I'm actually doing this now and was concerned about the wire upgrade. mainly cause I didn't even think about the possible need to up grade but this article put my mind at ease. it makes sense when you think about it not putting out the amps if they are not required. but when I start to install all the extra goodies I know now that I will need to upgrade the wires here as well.