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- Joined
- Oct 27, 2007
- Messages
- 3,387
- Reaction score
- 16
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
- Vehicle Year
- 1993, 2001
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 4.0, 5.0
- Transmission
- Manual
Here is my setup using the stock ranger A/C compressor.
Parts needed with prices. Prices are estimated:
*a 160psi max tank 5 gallons or equivalent $35
*in line oiler 1/2"NPT $4
*manifold w/at least 4 outlet ports 3/8 NPT inlet 1/4 NPT outlets $8
*shutoff switch 90psi on/120psi off 1/4" NPT $10
*safety valve rated within tank max pressure, I used a 150 psi 1/4" NPT $5
*160 psi gauge 1/4 NPT $12
*check valve 3/8 NPT $8
*oil/water separator 1/4 NPT $8
*quick conncect air fittings 1/4 NPT with 3/8" and 1/4" hoses ~$10
*DOT approved 3/8 air line
*misc. barbed and other fittings ~$10
All parts except for brass fittings I got from eBay.
Total; roughly $100 but I got some of the parts for free. So my cost was less than $50
Here is the tank I used. It's for a semi tractor.
I mounted it under the bed behind the axle where the spare tire was.
Had to weld brackets to the frame, was a little smaller than the frame width.
I plumbed the inlet into the air cleaner box. This way I didn't have to use a separate filter. I used 1/2"NPT pipe with two locking nuts at the air box and then mounted the inline oiler to it. And then used 5/8" heater hose from the oiler to the inlet tube for the compressor.
The inlet of the compressor is the top tube. Outlet is the bottom one.
From the outlet I just cut the hose and then used a barbed fitting and then mounted the check valve before the manifold. You can barely see it here.
I mounted the manifold to a bracket attached to the master cylinder. Then mounted the gauge, switch, safety valve and the outlet that runs the the tank with the oil/water filter.
I ended up using the factory a/c relay and used a toggle switch mounted on the dash. Have to open up the relay/fuse box and rewire it; from the fuse panel under the dash I found an unused acc on lead and ran a wire from that to the switch on the dash. From there ran a wire to the pressure switch located on the manifold, then to the relay. From the relay its already wired to run the clutch on the compressor.
For air fittings, I placed one on the rear bumper and in the grill. I used 1/4" DOT air hose but I would like to switch it to 3/8 hose for more air flow.
This setup works great. I can run air tools and air a completely flat 35" tire in a few minutes. Been using it for two years without any major problems. Only thing I had to fix was I originally used a cheap rubber air hose going to the tank. I had to replace the hose after a year because it rotted out from all the road salt. I replaced the hose with DOT approved 3/8" air line.
Sent from my HTC ONE using Tapatalk!
Parts needed with prices. Prices are estimated:
*a 160psi max tank 5 gallons or equivalent $35
*in line oiler 1/2"NPT $4
*manifold w/at least 4 outlet ports 3/8 NPT inlet 1/4 NPT outlets $8
*shutoff switch 90psi on/120psi off 1/4" NPT $10
*safety valve rated within tank max pressure, I used a 150 psi 1/4" NPT $5
*160 psi gauge 1/4 NPT $12
*check valve 3/8 NPT $8
*oil/water separator 1/4 NPT $8
*quick conncect air fittings 1/4 NPT with 3/8" and 1/4" hoses ~$10
*DOT approved 3/8 air line
*misc. barbed and other fittings ~$10
All parts except for brass fittings I got from eBay.
Total; roughly $100 but I got some of the parts for free. So my cost was less than $50
Here is the tank I used. It's for a semi tractor.
I mounted it under the bed behind the axle where the spare tire was.
Had to weld brackets to the frame, was a little smaller than the frame width.
I plumbed the inlet into the air cleaner box. This way I didn't have to use a separate filter. I used 1/2"NPT pipe with two locking nuts at the air box and then mounted the inline oiler to it. And then used 5/8" heater hose from the oiler to the inlet tube for the compressor.
The inlet of the compressor is the top tube. Outlet is the bottom one.
From the outlet I just cut the hose and then used a barbed fitting and then mounted the check valve before the manifold. You can barely see it here.
I mounted the manifold to a bracket attached to the master cylinder. Then mounted the gauge, switch, safety valve and the outlet that runs the the tank with the oil/water filter.
I ended up using the factory a/c relay and used a toggle switch mounted on the dash. Have to open up the relay/fuse box and rewire it; from the fuse panel under the dash I found an unused acc on lead and ran a wire from that to the switch on the dash. From there ran a wire to the pressure switch located on the manifold, then to the relay. From the relay its already wired to run the clutch on the compressor.
For air fittings, I placed one on the rear bumper and in the grill. I used 1/4" DOT air hose but I would like to switch it to 3/8 hose for more air flow.
This setup works great. I can run air tools and air a completely flat 35" tire in a few minutes. Been using it for two years without any major problems. Only thing I had to fix was I originally used a cheap rubber air hose going to the tank. I had to replace the hose after a year because it rotted out from all the road salt. I replaced the hose with DOT approved 3/8" air line.
Sent from my HTC ONE using Tapatalk!
The tank looks really close to the shocks but I take it you have not had any clearance issues since you been running it for awhile. Also does the tank have a drain petcock for condensate?
