Adding a York compressor to the 4.0 OHV

RockRanger · Jan 7, 2015

A york compressor is a great compressor for using as on board air in vehicles. We have been running one for years on my Wife's Jeep So I decided to add one to my ranger. My ranger did not come with AC but if yours has AC then this conversion will cause you to loose the AC.

Parts needed

York Compressor 210L. The L means the suction port will be on the top when the compressor is laid on its side. http://www.kilbystore.com/ef210l.html (can be found much cheaper other places online)

6 grove Pulley. http://www.kilbystore.com/25-513352.html

(2) idler pulleys. These come factory on 2008 Chevy Colorado trucks to make tracking down easier. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IZ15KG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

New serpentine belt Napa 6K980. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Belt-Fan/_/R-PBH6K980_0400042551

(4) metric bolts to bolt conversion bracket to AC compressor holes

(4) 3/8x 3/4' bolts to bolt York to conversion bracket.

(2) 1/2" x 2" bolts and nuts for idler pulleys to mount on.

Misc 1/2" washers to space pulleys out to proper location.

(2) spacers to reduce inside of idler pulley from 11/16 OD to 1/2" ID.

One conversion bracket

After multiple test fits and bracket mods I drew up a bracket in CAD and cut it on my Plasma table.

20150106_114522 by dresselhausfc, on Flickr

Once I assembled it taking care to make sure everything was square and aligned I welded it together.

20150106_133936 by dresselhausfc, on Flickr

20150106_133953 by dresselhausfc, on Flickr

I gave it a quick coat of paint and then bolted the bracket to the York Compressor.

20150106_144648 by dresselhausfc, on Flickr

20150106_144653 by dresselhausfc, on Flickr

Here are the reducers I made for the pulleys. I got a piece of 3/8" gas pipe from Home Depot. I ran a 1/2" drill bit down the middle of it. It took very little off the inside as it already is nearly 1/2" ID. Then I spun the pipe in a drill and lightly ground the OD with a grinder till I got the OD small enough to allow the pulleys to slide over. Last I cut them to length. Wish I had a lathe so I could make these nicer.

20150106_144820 by dresselhausfc, on Flickr

RockRanger · Jan 7, 2015

Then I bolted the idler pulleys to the bracket using washers behind the pulleys to space them out properly.

20150106_151846 by dresselhausfc, on Flickr

Then I installed it in the truck mounting it where the factory AC compressor was. Removing the air intake tube and throttle body made getting it in much easier. Also a ratcheting wrench is almost required to get two of the bolts in. Then installed the new belt.

20150106_155749 by dresselhausfc, on Flickr

If you are not running a body lift then you will have to trim a hood support brace to allow the york to clear. I put a small dab of grease on the compressor and closed the hood. when I opened it the grease transferred to the hood showing were it hit. A trim with a grinder. After driving the truck the truck a bit I need to open the front side up about a 1/4" more but it is not much of a cut that needs to be made.

20150106_104429 by dresselhausfc, on Flickr

It is extremely tight getting the power steering cap on and off but it can be done. To ever fill the power steering you will have to use a funnel but can still be serviced. Another thing to note is if I ever I have problems with the York, I can reinstall the non AC belt and bypass everything without having to unbolt anything.

Will continue when I finish plumbing the rest of the system.

RockRanger · Jan 11, 2015

When the truck is flexed up hard the pulley makes contact with the hood. Need to do a slight redesign to get it working right. This bracket would work fine on a truck with a body lift.

20150110_101327 by dresselhausfc, on Flickr

RockRanger · Jun 7, 2015

Built a new bracket that lowered the york just enough to now clear the hood. It looks just like the above bracket just ends up slightly lower. A few changes had to be made. The bolt for the york above the power steering pump cap has to be counter sunk and slightly ground to allow the cap to be removed. The power steering cap has to modified so it can be removed.

20150607_144713 by Matthew Dresselhaus, on Flickr

On the power steering reservoir 2 small cuts/ notches need to be made. The first is the stop on the backside. The stop that allows the cap to stop where it is removed has to be cut off to allow the cap to go past that point. Then approximately 90 degrees from there top top needs a small notch cut to allow the cap to be removed shown by the arrow in the photo.

20150607_144729 by Matthew Dresselhaus, on Flickr

To remove the cap it is turned till the side closest to the fender is able to come out. Pop that side out then rotate past the cut off stop. Then turn it to the point if the new cut out then remove the cap. With the trimming of the bottom of the cap it is able to come out. To add fluid you will need to use a funnel.

The last this is the belt listed above now ends up to long. The new belt part number is 6k966. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Belt-Accessory-Drive/_/R-PBH6K966_0394177256

So far I have put about 200 miles on the truck and a good 4 wheeling trip with the york mounted. I plan to finish hooking the york up soon so I will have on board air. My little electric unit is about to die.

Kayakcrazy · Jun 25, 2015

Looks good. A lot of work to get it to turn out that well..

Just a couple of questions as I'm at the beach now and spent the last 2 days out on the beach and airing down then back up for the drive back. Are you running a tank with that setup? Can you potentially run tools with it?
And how would it compare to an electric set up ?

RockRanger · Jun 27, 2015

Kayakcrazy said:
Looks good. A lot of work to get it to turn out that well..

Just a couple of questions as I'm at the beach now and spent the last 2 days out on the beach and airing down then back up for the drive back. Are you running a tank with that setup? Can you potentially run tools with it?
And how would it compare to an electric set up ?

I am running a tank. I built my bumper to be an air tank but am having issues with it. I am going abandon it and add a tank roughly 2.5 gallons under the bed where the factory fuel tank was ( I have a BII tank behind the rear axle). With a tank I could run air tools. If was going to do a lot of air tools a larger air tank would be beneficial. The York compressor comes in 3 sizes- 206, 209, and 210. I have a 210 which is 10 cubic inches of air per revolution. The pulley on the york is roughly the size of the crank pulley so at 800rpm at idle it puts out roughly 2.5 cfm. Bring the rpms up and the air output goes up. In my wifes cj giving it some gas we can fill a 33" tire from 10psi to 30 psi in about 45 seconds.

I think they kick the crap out of 12v electric. They fill up tires almost as fast as a CO2 tank but never run out. The advantage to an electric is that they can be mounted anywhere and moved from rig to rig. But for air output they suck. The other down side to this setup is the truck has to lose the A/C. In my case the truck wasn't equipped with it so it wasn't a loss.

Adding a York compressor to the 4.0 OHV

RockRanger

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RockRanger

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RockRanger

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RockRanger

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Kayakcrazy

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RockRanger

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