Crawlin's Build Thread

Here is a recent photo of the truck. I am going onto stage II of this build including one ton axles, doubler, 4.0 swap, and exo



1991 ex. cab 2.9 5spd stock. Plans include 33" tires, warn manual hubs, 5.5" superlift with hybrid(explorer/ranger)leaf springs, single piece driveshaft, 4.56 gears, 8.8 with some kind of locker, and eventually bumpers and sliders..........







So far just been collecting parts for the project.
Complete D35 with brand new Yukon 4.56 gears! 8.8 no gears or carrier...both from a 94 explorer.

That diff cover on the 8.8 is a TrickFlow...which is aluminum I think, should I get something more beefy or even a stock cover?

Get those axles under there!

But wait steering knuckles were modded to be able to run Heim joints for the steering ends.


Which after running it by a few guys on the site found out that it can be very bad especially if not done properly.....

MAKG "As I understand it, they tolerate a much larger angle. But get dirty and require replacing more often. You don't really need a much larger angle on the steering unless you've thoroughly thrashed the steering geometry. Most of what people do to modify their steering qualifies as mind-numbingly stupid -- steering geometry has to follow axle geometry, and modifications very often don't. Not having seen the linkage on this axle, I can't say if this does. But I don't see where heims are EVER actually necessary for anything approaching sensible angles. Now, for extended radius arms, sure. One would get much better travel from that than from compressing a bushing."

Ok. So do I swap over the pumpkin or steering knuckles? Im thinking steering knuckles but what do you think? Both axles are in good shape (my d35 on the truck and the new one with 4.56 gears) The one in the photo also has brand new bushings, disks, warn hubs, calipers and pads.

Get rid of that nasty rigged chit. The stock TREs will be more than sufficient.

I'll never understand what possess people to do half of the dumb things they do....

Heims mounted in double-shear (like how those mounts are set up) will be way stronger than standard TREs. This is great when blasting through the desert at high speed and you unintentionally slide into a berm or something.
Problem is... they wear at a MUCH faster rate than TREs, so you'll be replacing them every 5000 miles or so due to slop.
From the way it sounds, I would just swap the pig over from that axle onto yours, and run it that way.

On the diff cover, it should be fine if you put a little skidplate on it to protect the bulge for the ring gear.
I have basically the same cover on mine.

is it wheelable yet?

PaleBlue90 said:

is it wheelable yet?

Click to expand...

Wheelable oh yeah, I have had the stock ranger out in some pretty serious stuff. I am really impressed with how capable these trucks are. But the ride isnt the best. Wheelable, well it will be when this stuff gets bolted on.
The lift kit $180 from another TRS member-Drangerd even through in the driveshaft and some old stock manual hubs.

Planning on using these hybrid leafs from a ranger/sploder. and some F150 blocks.

I never said that heims in double shear were bad. It's the jerry-rigged method of accomplishing this that is bad.

One of the many proper methods for achieving double shear-mounted heim joint steering: (And high steer too)


Granted that's not going to work on a TTB Dana 35, but you get the idea.

crawlin91 said:

That diff cover on the 8.8 is a TrickFlow...which is aluminum I think, should I get something more beefy or even a stock cover?

Ok. So do I swap over the pumpkin or steering knuckles? Im thinking steering knuckles but what do you think? Both axles are in good shape (my d35 on the truck and the new one with 4.56 gears) The one in the photo also has brand new bushings, disks, warn hubs, calipers and pads.

Click to expand...

It looks aluminum. I'd swap over a HD cover. Is Jim still selling those on the TRS off-road and Fab?

I don't think it'd be hard to swap either....

Swap the pumpkin and all the new stuff on to your trucks axle or just swap your knuckles onto the new. Seems about the same amount of work either way. But that new axle is nicely painted.

crawlin91 said:

Wheelable oh yeah, I have had the stock ranger out in some pretty serious stuff. I am really impressed with how capable these trucks are. But the ride isnt the best. Wheelable, well it will be when this stuff gets bolted on.
The lift kit $180 from another TRS member-Drangerd even through in the driveshaft and some old stock manual hubs.

Planning on using these hybrid leafs from a ranger/sploder. and some F150 blocks.

Click to expand...

those leaf packs look like they belong on a 3/4 ton! remember that flex is JUST as important as lift. so IF you can LIFT your diffs by doing a little trimming so those 33s fit and you have more travel you are farther ahead than jacking the truck sky high and having little to no travel. just keep in mind, there is a HUGE diffrence between a jacked up truck and a wheeling rig. wheeling rigs need travel, jacked up trucks just have height and suspension travel distance dosent matter. FYI with a 5 inch lift you shouldent have an issue running 34s or 35s with some minor trimming. many of us shoot for the best travel with the lowest center of gravity and the best gearing/tire combo we can get. now keep in mind i could care less about what my b2 looks like so if appearance means something to you dont take my approach to seriously.

86

JohnnyU said:

I never said that heims in double shear were bad. It's the jerry-rigged method of accomplishing this that is bad.

Click to expand...

I suppose that setup could've been boxed in for better strength, although I'm not sure there's really enough showing in that pic to be able to make a good judgment about how 'jerry-rigged' it is (the one weld that I see doesn't look overly "boogerish", although it's profile is hard to make out). Certainly it doesn't have the 'bling' like that part you posted though lol.

Regardless, I still agree that there's no good reason for it if it's not needed, just because of the more frequent maintenance issues that go with heims in general.

86ford said:

those leaf packs look like they belong on a 3/4 ton! remember that flex is JUST as important as lift. so IF you can LIFT your diffs by doing a little trimming so those 33s fit and you have more travel you are farther ahead than jacking the truck sky high and having little to no travel. just keep in mind, there is a HUGE diffrence between a jacked up truck and a wheeling rig. wheeling rigs need travel, jacked up trucks just have height and suspension travel distance dosent matter. FYI with a 5 inch lift you shouldent have an issue running 34s or 35s with some minor trimming. many of us shoot for the best travel with the lowest center of gravity and the best gearing/tire combo we can get. now keep in mind i could care less about what my b2 looks like so if appearance means something to you dont take my approach to seriously.

86

Click to expand...

Looks are only a little important but not before function. And I certainly dont want a "jacked up truck". But for the price I figured it would at least get me up on some bigger tires and out on the trail before they are all snowed over. Ive also even been considering new skyjacker 6" coils instead because the superlift wont flex up front. What than would you do to get a quality lift in the back? The leafs I have on the truck now are oem replacements and are only a year old. So what do I do? Im going to keep and wheel this thing forever so I want to do a quality job. Add a leafs? blocks? new leaf pack? Shackles?

you could get new leafs arched for your set up, im shure could get them done at a good price

PaleBlue90 said:

you could get new leafs arched for your set up, im shure could get them done at a good price

Click to expand...

Yeah thats probably what I will do. Looked a little bit online but havent found em yet.

try somwere local its cheaper lol