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Street Rod Ranger


snoopjonnyjon

01/2013 STOTM Winner
V8 Engine Swap
MTOTM Winner
Joined
Mar 4, 2008
Messages
221
Age
42
City
Saskatoon, SK
Vehicle Year
1992
Transmission
Automatic
1992 Reg cab long bed. It is still just being mocked up. Everything still needs to be taken apart for blasting and powdercoating before I can begin on bodywork. It will primarily be a show truck, but might see a couple drag passes. I hope to have it completed ~2012.

Engine is a 1989 roller cam 5.0L. Trick Flow Track Heat heads, Trick Flow .542/.563 cam, 10.5:1 compression, gear drive timing set, RPm air gap intake, 670cfm Holley Street Avenger. Full MSD ignition with billet distributor, 6AL box, superconductor wires, and Blaster 3 coil. Swap components are all from Advance Adapters. Transmission is a C4 with 3000 stall JW converter and manual valvebody. Rear end still needs to be built, but will be a 8.8 w 3.55 gears, Detroit Locker, 31 spline Moser axles and c-clip eliminators. Steering converted to manual, still debating manual brakes.

Here's a few random pictures from so far.

This first picture is from the last day I drove it before totally dismantling. It will be much nicer the next time it moves.
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With dual quad setup I decided against running.
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WOW! That's really cool, and it looks like you're going all out on it. Looking really good so far, and do keep us updated on your progress.
 
Just curius, why you get rid of the power brakes and power steering? I don't see any benifit in that..


It's going to be a nice looking truck though, I like it.
 
I am trying to save as much weight as I can, so ditching any power accessories helps. Removing the PS gives one less thing to potentially leak, and I won't have the wretched whine under the hood when its running. The brackets I had interfered the pump and the steering box, so I just decided to scrap it. Its a light truck anyways. The power brakes I am not sure about. I may or may not have enough vacuum to run with my cam, so then I'd need to run a vacuum canister adding another ugly item under the hood. I might try it and see if it works as is. It would save a lot of effort to just leave the brakes alone.

Oh yeah, I am switching the block lettering Ranger emblems to a set of NOS emblems for the bedside of a 67-69 F100 Ranger. This is just a crappy one I found a picture of, but I have an NOS set. I'll get this logo stiched into the floor mats too.
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i have manual brakes on my ranger (think the guy i bought it from took the booster off as i found the vac lines with bolts in them) but anyhow it stops really well wit 33" tires on it and takes minimal effort to brake for no booster on it
 
What headers are those??

Tell me those are advance adapter headers so i have a reason to complaine to them
 
Last edited:
Yes, they are Advanced Adapters chrome plated headers. What are you going to complain about???
 
looks great...........likin the seat color!
emblem idea in the mats is really a great idea!
i wish you could use long tube headers with 4x4, shortys just do not have the sound when there un capped.
ive found a set of used long tube i may talk the guy out of just to whack them up and see if i can make them fit.

deff. gonna keep watching this build!
 
i could not see...but is that still a gen two rad suport or you giving it the much better gen 1 look :)
 
That is still a Gen 2 core support. The front end is the one area of the truck that I don't have a clear vision of how I want to do it. The back end is simple: Early Bronco taillights, and sectioning the block FORD lettering out from the tailgate and welding in a section of Ford script from a 40's tailgate I have around. Should give a near stock, but WTF look to the back.

Unless I can come up with a better idea for the front end, that I am actually capable of executing to a high level, I am going to just do a stock restore on the front. I am not a bodyman.
 
Yes, they are Advanced Adapters chrome plated headers. What are you going to complain about???

The fact that mine dont fit worth a damn, the collector sits partway under the transmission oil pan instead of running along the side of the transmission, and im just not happy with them at all...
 
Mine didn't exactly drop in either. I had to notch the framerail, and the bellhousing, and run a mini starter on the passenger side. Driver's side fit nice. Were you using a 157 or 164 tooth bellhousing? They took some effort, but that's to be expected on anything custom.
 
no i had no problems with fitting them to the engine, i expected to notch the frame a little, i cut a couple ears off the bellhousing that looked like they were for supporting the transmission for production and storage. but the header shouldn't protrude downward under the frame and under the transmission oil pan.
 

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