My Build, All Parts And Prices ***2016 Updated*** still not done...

Well, this is in no way a perfect build, and there some things I would change and they will be mentioned. The prices I'm listing are in Canadian dollars, and they were from when the US and Can. Dollar were near equal. There are several ways to go about a build like this, but here's how I did it.

I'm going to divide this into 4 sections being: Factory parts/Aftermarket Parts/Wear Parts/Services.....now on with the show.

Factory Parts:

$200 - 73' EBD44 Housing and Radius Arms
$40 - 78-79' Bronco/F150 Radius Arm Brackets
$100 - 76' Supercab F150 Knuckles
$20 - EBD44 Shock mounts
$200 - 97' Explorer 8.8"
$000 - F150 Lift Blocks - 3.5"

SUBTOTAL - $560

AfterMarket Parts:

$000 - Track Bar Mounts upper/lower and Tranny crossmember (I built, already had the steel)
$350 - NWF High Steer Arms (got bent over on these)
$250 - 1 1/2"x 3/8"wall DOM Tie Rod/Drag Link
$30 - TJ trackbar and Heim w/sleeve for adjustability
$250 - 4.56 gears, front and rear. New but purchased through forums
$80 - Procomp Ranger extended brakelines
$200 - 7" Skyjacker EB coils
$275 - 5.5" Procomp 88-98 Chevy Leafs
$260 - Procomp ES3000 shocks
$75 - BellTech 6400 Shackles
$500 - Detroit locker for 31 spline 8.8"
$80 - 5/8" Ubolts and 9/16" Spring Bolts
$150 - 15x10 Chrome rims
$1200 - 5x 35x13.50R15 Krawlers

SUBTOTAL - $3700

Wear Parts

$200 - Moog Balljoints
$220 - Mevotech TRE's (One Ton Chevy)
$140 - Raybestos Brake Pad's
$120 - Calipers
$80 - All misc seals, front and rear not covered by rebuild kit
$140 - Rebuild kit's for both diff''s, new through forum's
$40 - Spicer Ujoints

SUBTOTAL - $940

Services

$140 - Machine knuckles, install chromoly studs
$600 - Install gears (ran out of time, could have done it myself)
$80 - Alignment

SUBTOTAL - $820

TOTAL - $6020 (EEK....first time I actually added it all up.....must hide this post from girlfriend.....)


I will update this as I remember stuff that I surely left out.....

So, if I was to do this again these are the things I would change:

1. Regear my own diff's

2. Center my rear axle on my own, not using forum 'guideline'. My rear axle is offset about 1 1/2" to the rear, possibly because my chevy leafs are a lift leaf and I'd use the body mount rivet on the upper front hole as a guideline instead of the rear lower hole in front lower hole guideline.

3. Mount radius arms forward 2" to give more tire clearance. Use the stock tranny crossmember hole everyone use's, but as a guide to move the mounts up squarely on the frame. This will also move your draglink closer to parallel with the Tie Rod giving you more useable steering angle.

4. Turn knuckles and use 0* C bushings. I have 7* offset bushings and alignment printout show's about 2* castor going down the road. Having wide tires exaggerates the issue.

5. Run a different shock, preferably adjustable. When loaded the ES3000's work great....the rest of the time they are fairly stiff and cause a somewhat rough ride.

I'll post more as I remember it....

-andrew

Note*** Some pic's are of parts that have been changed during the build, such as knuckles and rear blocks etc.....if you have specific parts you'd like a pic of lemme know and I'll snap one for ya.

do you have any pics of your build?

Change of plans? Wreck? Body panels for Sale?

Uhm, not quite.....I posted this as a guide for pricing and setup for those looking to do a SAS. I noticed several people asking about them, and figured this might help their decisions.

-andrew

wahlstrom1 said:

Uhm, not quite.....I posted this as a guide for pricing and setup for those looking to do a SAS. I noticed several people asking about them, and figured this might help their decisions.

-andrew

Click to expand...

Oh ok, sorry, thought it was a sale thread. Looks awesome by the way!

i could not bring myself to spend that much no matter how small my pecker was........ i am getting teary eyed just thinking about it. i have less than half that into my b2 purchase price and all....... all that and you still have 2 open diffs?

86

EDIT- Immature response on my part.....blah blah blah, it's a truck, so take what you will from the post......maybe it's STICKY worthy? maybe not.....


-andrew

86ford said:

i could not bring myself to spend that much no matter how small my pecker was........ i am getting teary eyed just thinking about it. i have less than half that into my b2 purchase price and all.......

86

Click to expand...

YOU LEAVE THE PECKERS OUT OF THIS!!!

$6000 into the swap and you're still running 1/2 ton axles.... Great documentation, but I strongly disagree with your axle choice for putting that much time and money into it...

Looking at it now...me too. But it is what it is, and that includes all suspension and rear axle costs as well so some of it would overlap. If I had 6k to throw at it at once, rather then drag it out so I could actually afford it I would probably do 9" centers with portal outers.

I just hope this can be a guideline to all those thinking of doing a swap, and it shows most of the things that need to be covered. You can subsitute your own prices, and setups (steering for example) and come up with a budget.

-andrew

I thought it was helpful. I am in the middle of getting all of my swap stuff right now. How much lift did you gain with those springs over stock?

At first I'd say 10", but they've sagged down to 8" or so up front. The back has held up rather well though, even after numerous heavy loads, flexing and trailer towing they never really lost any height.

-andrew

rangerbum said:

YOU LEAVE THE PECKERS OUT OF THIS!!!

Click to expand...

i am NOT attacking his male member in my post, just saying that regardless of how much of a complex i had i could not justify that price tag. take from it what you will but my post was not intended as an insult.

86

i will say i like your build very much. i will also say i wouldnt have, and didnt, go with a eb44. however this thread i believe can be very helpfull to those doing the swap. gotta give ya props on the trac bar bracket. i made mine to far forward and will have to remake it. possibly doing something like yours i moved my radius arms forward using the crossmember holes as a guide. only 1 1/4 inch.

you didnt cut your engine crossmember or shave the sides? me either but my suspension wont compress that far idk y.

i didnt spend that much on my FWswap and i got ARBs and yukon gears and install kits from randy's. but some how you managed to get your tires for 100 less than i did and i work at a BFG distributor


mybe what some people need to remember is that his prices are canadian so mybe it like 4500ish american?

once again man it looks good. i think out trucks are the same color.

I didn't have to do any cutting, but I have a set of bump stops to install to ensure I won't have to worry about any problems. I've only locked in the rear for now, but am getting an Aussie for up front. I bought the tires from a buddy of mine....he had them since they debuted, and never put any real miles on them.

The thing to remember when looking at my pricing is that it's a total of everything for the truck, from stock to what it is now....including tires, and rear suspension as well. If you DeBling the steering some you could lose a lotta cost there as well. Oh, and my truck's Caymen Green?

-andrew