Home Discussion Forum Tech Articles Other Articles Featured Rides Readers Rides Classifieds Shirts & Decals Parts Store

Ford Ranger Discussion Forum

Off-Road Truck Of The Month

'MastuhWaffles'
November 2014 OTOTM

Mini Truck Of The Month

'ATX'
November 2014 MTOTM
 

Go Back   The Ranger Station Forums > Truck Discussions > Mazda B-Series Specific

Notices

Mazda B-Series Specific Addressing issues specific to the Mazda B-Series trucks

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-04-2009, 10:13 AM   #1
newageroman
New Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 8
Vehicle Year: 94
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: B2300
Rep Power: 0
newageroman is on a distinguished road
Default codes: 211, 214, 222, 332 94'B2300 no cat

Hi all, I'm new to the forums and just trying to get this little gas sipper running (dependably).

I have the following engine codes for the 2.3 liter 4 cylinder:
truck engine code links
211 - PIP profile Ignition Pickup
http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...p/t-10281.html
214 - Cylinder ID error
http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...ead.php?t=2490
222-DIS right side
http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...p/t-32562.html
http://www.wrenchead.ca/HTML%20Prese...der/sld061.htm
332 - insufficient EGR flow

Here is short history of the vehicle: Bought 3 year ago with around 130k, now has 170k. Shortly thereafter had bottom end rebuilt as every now and then it would burn oil and proved plumes of blue smoke out the tailpipe.

1 year ago new battery and starter

3 months ago had ICM module replaced and new intake gasket installed due to vaccum leak and bad spark. ran much better, but still had low power and a slight miss arond 2000RPM(most noticeable)

2 weeks ago, new Exhaust gas sensor and exhaust manifold resealed(with high temp silicone) because it was running bad once again and the exhaust manifold gasket was leaking. The sensor mounted to the firewall that measures exhaust gases was melted on one side (intake i think). The shop said the cat was stopped up, so I had that removed temporarily unil it is running correclty. no emmissions/smogs here...

The truck ran pretty good/much better for about a week. It would die on you when warm and low RPMs, but only on occasion (just wait a couple minutes and restart - run OK). Then it started getting hard to start. It took a bit longer on the starter and more gas to get it running, almost like one cylinder didn't want to turn over and working against the rest. It also had some type of ping or engine chatter up to about 1800RPM. This progressed to the point that I barely made i home and it died on me at a stoplight and was VERY hard to start to get the last mile or two to the driveway. It would only stay running while in gear and rolling. It also started running on the hot side (up until now I have never seen it get above 1/4 on the temp gauge. It was 3/4 to hot when I rolled in the driveway.

I'm not a grease monkey, but I have done some work here and there on different vehicles. This truck is my gas sipper and is paid for so I am looking to get it running well again without getting ripped off again at the local mechanic (200$ for a sensor and telling me it runs fine with the exhaust/cat unhooked) or the ford dealership. I haven't checked for spark on all cylinders yet, and suspect the code 332 is for the no cat, but honestly at this point I am clueless and need some guidance/suggestions. My biggest fear is that all these codes and the chatter/pinging/rattle from the engine points to something mechanical that is above my ability. If it's just sensors or wiring, I can probably fix that.

Thanks for any advice/insight in advance...
Happy burgers and 4th to you...
newageroman is offline   Reply With Quote
Forum Notices (Not shown to 'Premium Members')

 Reminder:

 We're looking for participants to help move our banner from Alaska to Florida: Click HERE.

 Click HERE to see the banner map.

 Want to become a Premium Member & not see these notices? Click HERE.

Want your truck considered for Truck Of The Month? Click HERE.

Don't forget to vote!

Old 07-11-2009, 12:53 PM   #2
locknar
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 35
Vehicle Year: 2008 2009
Vehicle Make: Mazda Ford
Vehicle Model: B3000 Ranger
Rep Power: 12
locknar is on a distinguished road
Default

have you got it fixed?
Two of your codes could be faulty wiring, plus your comment on the exhaust leak melting the sensor, I would start with the electrical and double check the wiring harness.
locknar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2009, 12:32 PM   #3
newageroman
New Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 8
Vehicle Year: 94
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: B2300
Rep Power: 0
newageroman is on a distinguished road
Default

Man, THANK YOU for posting a reply. No I have not got it fixed. I've been working on my '78 Bronco (that also has a ranger badge), as it runs more reliably.

Which two codes are the wiring ones you mentioned. I will check them this weekend. What specifically, should I check on the wiring harness? From memory, there was one mention about some type of resistor inside the harness. Any details on that or checking the harness would be welcomed. I am no electrician, but do have a good voltmeter and have done a bit of wiring fixes before.

Thanks again!
newageroman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2009, 01:05 AM   #4
locknar
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 35
Vehicle Year: 2008 2009
Vehicle Make: Mazda Ford
Vehicle Model: B3000 Ranger
Rep Power: 12
locknar is on a distinguished road
Default

I actually just meant a visual trace of the wiring looking for clumps of melted harness based on your comment that the Exhaust had leaked.
There are three cause for Code 211
-loose wires or connectors
-secondary ignition shorted to ground
- on-board transmitter like a two way radio
Code 222 is
-loose wires or connectors
-faulty crankshaft position sensor
-faulty camshaft position sensor
-low battery voltage at the ICM -(this is interesting as you
replaced the ICM 3 months ago, I would check the voltage here)
-faulty ICM
-faulty PCM
Code 332
- vacuum hose
-EGR
-PCM
Code 214
-can be a short in the PCM

So long story short start reading about PCM's and make sure all electrical connectors, are clean tight, non melted and where they are supposed to be.
locknar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2009, 05:42 PM   #5
newageroman
New Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 8
Vehicle Year: 94
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: B2300
Rep Power: 0
newageroman is on a distinguished road
Default

Thanks for the help so far...

I need a PIP (camshaft position sensor) and shaft for the Mazda(not the ranger)
Well, I ran this thing again for the first time in like a couple months the other day. It ran OK cool, but when it warmed up it ran like crap again and started with the check engine light.

I gave up and took it to the local shop. they got all the codes out except for the camshaft position sensor (I assume its the 211 and 214 codes from before). Well they ordered a new sensor and some sort of sensor shaft for the ranger and it won't fit the Mazda and now they are *looking for the correct part. They told me about $350 for parts and labor before it was the hard to find part, and said I might have to go to a dealer YIKES$$$.

Is there a difference between the ranger and mazda PIP (camshaft position) sensor and shaft? How hard are these to replace and where can I get one from (*that will work for the Mazda). I might look for a Junk yard replacement if its $$$

Last edited by newageroman; 10-07-2009 at 07:22 PM. Reason: corretion PIP sensor
newageroman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2009, 01:10 AM   #6
Bryan22
Member
 
Bryan22's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: So-Cal babay
Posts: 1,611
Vehicle Year: 94 extd
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger
I use this vehicle for: fun, dd.
Rep Power: 17
Bryan22 is on a distinguished road
Default

do you live in california? or is it a california truck? Reson i ask is only ca models with manual tranny have a cam sensor for those years. if so and it's bad that would explain the 211 and 214 codes. you can just unplugg the sensor and live with the CEL if you like. the truck will run fine. the sensor is a major PITA to change. you need a low-profile ratchet or a wrench and plenty of patience. the 222 could be a bad coil pack. checking them with a multimeter is very simple and coils are easy to replace. the 332 is probably a dirty egr valve, or a bad vaccum line going to the valve. Also could be the sensor that controls the vaccum to the EGR valve. cleaning the valve is easy and would only cost a gasket, that's what i'd try first. good luck with it, i've had experience with all these codes on my 94 ranger. if you need more help PM me as i don't check this forum often. you also might try postin in 2000 and older 4 cylinder section next time. more people check that one out. also the synchronizer shaft and sensor should be the same on the ranger and the mazda since it is the same motor. dunno what they are trying to pull at the shop, but if you are confident in your wrenching skills i'd tackle it at home and save about 250 bux.

Last edited by Bryan22; 10-08-2009 at 01:17 AM.
Bryan22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2009, 08:13 PM   #7
newageroman
New Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 8
Vehicle Year: 94
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: B2300
Rep Power: 0
newageroman is on a distinguished road
Default

Update...
The shop replaced the camshaft sensor and that didn't fix the problem(They aren't charging me for that). They then replaced the crankshaft sensor and all the codes are gone. The truck does run much better, but still has low power (although it gets about 22-23 mpg) and there is an intermittent miss. The shop manager said that the crankshaft sensor was about 570$ with parts and labor, does that seem high? (like they want to recoup some of the camshaft sensor labor). I drove it around some and suspect the slight miss might be causing the crankshaft sensor to fail. The shop manager said it still ran like crap, but wanted me to drive it to see if it drove like before the codes started appearing. He then suggested that I drive it over the weekend before collecting any money from me, which I have never heard of a mechanic doing.

Well I drove it about 300 miles this weekend and it is still low on power and still has the intermittent miss, but seems to run smooth between 2000 and 3000 RPMs. It started popping through the intake again when doing ~80 trying to get up a hill on the superslab like it was lean and sucking air from the intake manifold gasket that was just replaced about 6 months (and only 2k miles) ago.

It's pretty obvious that something is still amiss in the head or valves or something that is causing the miss and low power and I still think that will lead eventually to a new crankshaft position sensor down the road again.
I guess my questions are:
  • Is $600 about right for a crankshaft position sensor?
  • Should I press them to find the actual ROOT of the problem as opposed to fixing a symptom?
  • What would cause a crankshaft position sensor to go bad? I just had an intake manifold gasket put on, removed clogged cat converter, and about 30k miles ago had the bottom end redone (shave crank, new pistons, block bored, bearings).
I'm leaning to paying the mechanic and putting it on CraigsList ASAP.
Thanks for the help and advice, I had no idea that this was a CA truck. Its funny though because I bought it in NC on the other side of the nation.
newageroman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2009, 05:20 AM   #8
Bryan22
Member
 
Bryan22's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: So-Cal babay
Posts: 1,611
Vehicle Year: 94 extd
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger
I use this vehicle for: fun, dd.
Rep Power: 17
Bryan22 is on a distinguished road
Default

seems like it should still be throwing codes. could be your CEl is burrned out. even if the crank sensor fixed most of the codes at the very least you would still have the EGR code unless they fixed something else.
No matter what it is, having a shop fix your car/truck is expensive. I think 600 is outrageous, but i would do it myself. Basically what i'm saying is learn to wrench on your own stuff or get used to paying for someone else to.
Bryan22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2009, 11:02 AM   #9
newageroman
New Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 8
Vehicle Year: 94
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: B2300
Rep Power: 0
newageroman is on a distinguished road
Default

They could have fixed stuff for the other codes, but didn't mention it, just the cam and crank sensors. I have ben learning a LOT about motors in general working on an old Honda Shadow and a '78 Bronco this past year. I always do as much as I can, but I know when to throw in the towel due to my limited abilities, tools, patience...
Thanks!
newageroman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:33 PM.




1999-2014 / 959 Media LLC / All Rights Reserved