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anyone rebuilt a 2.8 from a 78?


Angie

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Hey guys, I am getting ready to start a rebuild on a 2.8 that is out of my 78 pinto. (ok ok, its not a ranger) but still a ford. LOL I was wondering if anyone in here has rebuilt any of these older motors? Can you give me any information. I read thru the tech section on the 2.8 and was wondering if the information in there is the same for all years of these motors?

I am on the fence about if I will be building her up (cam, hiperformance goodies) however, it is nice to know that tech section is there just in case.

is there any differences from the older motors and newer ones pertaining to specs?

thanks
 


Hotrodlincoln

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As far as I know they're all the same. They were more prominent in the older cars and were in the stages of being phased out entirely by the time they made it into the Ranger so probably not many changes were made in the last few years except for the EECIV engine management system. A pinto would be a beast with a tricked out 2.8 in it.
 

small ranger

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The newer 2.8 have emission ports to recirculate some of the smog stuff but besides that they are the same I think. Ask "Allan D" he will know.
 

dangerranger83

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There is a difference in the cam shafts between the Pintos and the Rangers that wont allow them to inter-change. Other diffferences are the lower water necks and the timing gear cover.
 

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I can't speak to the differences in camshafts between the older blocks and newer ones, but if you are looking towards aftermarket cam then Comp Cams offers the same grinds for both. I believe that the 83 and 84 both used the same lower lower water neck as the 70s blocks, because IIRC they both had the t-stat in the lower water neck.

My understanding is that the newer 2.8 heads are better performers than the older ones.

Most of what's in the tech library concerning performance will pertain to either the 70s or 80s 2.8Ls. Just make sure you purchase a cam for the year model the engine came out of. If I have a chance this weekend I'll look and see if I can find out anything else.
 

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Thanks guys. I was aware of the cam differences. What I am thinking of doing is taking the cam to a machine shop that is close to me here and they mainly rework original cams and regrind them to what ever you are looking for. I am still playing with that idea.

As I said I am on the fence with this build. All I know is the motor needs a good going over. (If nothing more than piece of mind knowing all is A-OK with it)

"My understanding is that the newer 2.8 heads are better performers than the older ones." <<< can you give me any years or casting numbers??

thanks guys
 

Angie

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I will just keep this thread instead of starting a new one. (hopefully you guys will keep reading along with ths one)

Yesterday I was able to find a couple hours and pulled the one of the heads off the block. This motor had been sitting for 18 years without being started/turned over. upon inspection of the block I see something that tells me I might be in trouble. The water passages are rusted inside the block (the heads look ok) This motor only has 70K Kms on it when it was parked. the valves look new, the tops of the pistons still have factory markings on them. so from inspection it is looking like the internals are in great shape.

The rocker rails are tight, with zero wear on them. pushrods look new. When I get the block fully stripped down will hot tanking the block remove all the rust and gunk? or am I in the market for a new block?

I was surprised to see that these old motors had flat top pistons.... hmmm interesting.

laters guys and thanks for any input.
 

dangerranger83

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From the sounds of it, it didnt have the life of abuse so eveeything might be good on it. Rusty water passages are normal for an engine that sat for 18 years and who knows how long it sat with water in it before it was drained (if it wasnt in there when you got to it, you never said).

Hot tanking will make that engine clean enough you can eat off of it.

BTW dont forget to get pictures of all of this, people here love to see pictures of good finds and from the sounds of you found something good.
 

Angie

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Hi Danger... The block was empty, the water just evaporated away over the years of sitting. The passages have metal rust flake in them that can be dug out with a flat screwdriver. I will get a better idea how deep the rust is when I get the rest of the block tore down. from as far as I can tell the rust seems to be about 1/16th of an inch thick. Yes I will (have) taken pics. :)

cheers
 

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If you get the block tanked it'l eat all that stuff away. You could just about swear the block was just cast after it comes out of the tank. Strip it bare and have it dipped and honed and the head gasket surfaces milled, should be like brand new. If you're doing a full rebuild be sure to ask the machinist to check that none of the cylinders are out of round while it's there. Some of them do it anyway, others you have to ask.
 

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Sorry man I was telling you wrong. I thought I read that the heads from the Ranger/BII 2.8Ls had the better heads for 2.8s. I was wrong the pre-80s engines have the better heads. They have better flowing exhaust ports.
 

Angie

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I was able to get a few hours this afternoon and tore down this motor. Here are a couple pics of the rust. block and heads will be getting a hot tank. I am curios if your exhuast manifolds look like this? two of the exhuast ports on each side go into one of the manifold. do any of your motors do this? see pics. this motor will be getting new main bearings, rod bearings, rings, new gaskets (top to bottom) valves redone. the cam will more than likely be reground, rebuilt carb, new plugs, wires, dizzy, all ignition, with new thermastat, water pump, hoses... etc.

thanks

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n69/ru_ready_4_r_n_r/exhuastman.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n69/ru_ready_4_r_n_r/pistonrust.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n69/ru_ready_4_r_n_r/headrust.jpg
 

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Are there big ridges on the cylinders the rust dont look that bad. Have you searched the mustang forums the mustang II and capri also had the same engine in them and does it have the points ignition if so duraspark it it is real easy and cheap upgrade and in my opinion as good any mallory setup. The tech library has all the info under duraspark conversion just use the TFI coil and motorcraft plugs.
 

Angie

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Are there big ridges on the cylinders the rust dont look that bad. Have you searched the mustang forums the mustang II and capri also had the same engine in them and does it have the points ignition if so duraspark it it is real easy and cheap upgrade and in my opinion as good any mallory setup. The tech library has all the info under duraspark conversion just use the TFI coil and motorcraft plugs.
Amazingly enough the cyliders are in great shape, no deep (sitting) ridges or major rust scores on them. Nothing that a good honing won't clean. I never thought about looking into stang 2 forums, just figured that you guys would be able to answer any Q's that I have about this. simplely put, a motor is a motor, add air, fire and fuel and away you go... :)

yes I willl be adding extra uhhmmph from aftermarket ignition systems. I will be researching what will work best in this set up as time goes on. thanks for the ideas.

cheers
 

kimcrwbr1

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Amazingly enough the cyliders are in great shape, no deep (sitting) ridges or major rust scores on them. Nothing that a good honing won't clean. I never thought about looking into stang 2 forums, just figured that you guys would be able to answer any Q's that I have about this. simplely put, a motor is a motor, add air, fire and fuel and away you go... :)

yes I willl be adding extra uhhmmph from aftermarket ignition systems. I will be researching what will work best in this set up as time goes on. thanks for the ideas.

cheers
Don`t forget the oil and coolant also:icon_hornsup:
 

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