2WD One-Piece Drive Shaft Swap?

zugzug21 · Dec 30, 2007

Hello,

I have a 1993 2.3L 2WD Super Cab Ranger. I've read an article on this site about swapping out a two-piece driveshaft with a one-piece driveshaft from a 98+ 4X4 to a 97 or older 4X4 truck.

Would this also be possible with my truck (2WD)? If so would any 98+ Ranger work or do I need to find a 2WD?

I reason I'm asking is because I have replaced my center bearing twice. Now I felt vibrations again and noticed that the support bar that my center bearing is bolted to has rusted through on the passenger side! I was going to the salvage yard to get this bar but if I could just remove it and replace my driveshaft with a one piece I could rid this horrible center bearing from my life FOREVER! ;o)

Thanks,
Ryan

Darklighter · Mar 14, 2011

1 piece driveshaft

Ryan,

I bought a 1992 V6 4.0 lifted 2WD extended cab Ranger a few months ago. I had to replace the support bearing twice and it was going out for a third time. Instead of replacing it again and spending another 50 bucks on the bearing, I just had a custom 1 piece driveshaft built ($300) for my ranger. It bolted right up, after removing the cross member. I'd also recommend replacing the tranny rear output seal. I still need to fix under the cab where the driveshaft will scrap when I have a load in the truck.

-Darklighter

spin · Mar 16, 2011

zugzug21 said:
Hello,

I have a 1993 2.3L 2WD Super Cab Ranger. I've read an article on this site about swapping out a two-piece driveshaft with a one-piece driveshaft from a 98+ 4X4 to a 97 or older 4X4 truck.

Would this also be possible with my truck (2WD)? If so would any 98+ Ranger work or do I need to find a 2WD?

I reason I'm asking is because I have replaced my center bearing twice. Now I felt vibrations again and noticed that the support bar that my center bearing is bolted to has rusted through on the passenger side! I was going to the salvage yard to get this bar but if I could just remove it and replace my driveshaft with a one piece I could rid this horrible center bearing from my life FOREVER! ;o)

Thanks,
Ryan

It should work just fine. I did it to my 95. Just get a drive shaft from the same style of vehicle (ext cab/reg cab, 5spd/auto). You will need to remove the bracket for the center support bearing, but should be able to leave the crossmember in. I put a 1 piece aluminum in with no clearance issues.

fivestring · Jun 9, 2011

direct bolt-in?

Spin, was is a straight up bolt in replacement?

I have a 2wd '96 super cab/manual and am looking to do this swap too.

rrbrian222 · Jun 10, 2011

fivestring said:
Spin, was is a straight up bolt in replacement?

I have a 2wd '96 super cab/manual and am looking to do this swap too.

This thread is a little old, so I'll reply.

I did the swap on my 95 2wd/MT/Super cab last fall.... It is definitely a simple bolt on affair, the 1996 model will be identical to mine. I would recommend removing the center bearing cross member since its no longer needed and mine was just a rust magnet anyway.

There are no floorboard clearance modifications needed, even for the larger diameter aluminum drive shaft. I think the hardest part is finding the correct shaft in a JY since the 2wd manual trans. version seems to be less common than the 2wd auto. Here's some info on the 98+ aluminum shafts for anyone with an older 2wd super cab looking to upgrade:

126" wheelbase Man. Trans:

Part # F87A-4602-NB
64" Weld-to Weld
28 spline Slip-yoke

126" wheelbase Auto Trans:

Part # F87A-4602-PB
60" weld-to-weld
24 spline Slip-yoke

Here are some pics I took this summer when I had my driveshaft out. They are one of each laying side-by-side:

The larger diameter yoke below is the manual transmission shaft:

fivestring · Jun 19, 2011

just did the swap

Here's my experience today:

i got a driveline from a 2002 Ranger, 3.0 (I was told at the JY all engines are the same driveline) xcab, manual 2wd. Honkin big aluminum shaft. Same length as mine, same spline, same flange mount.

I removed my driveline (1996 Ranger, xcab 2.3L, manual, 2wd) and then removed the bracket for the carrier bearing. I installed the new one-piece shaft and immediately saw it was hitting the floorboard. There is a "crossmember" that supports the floor right behind the seats. It is a channel about 4" wide. I used a grinder to take a notch out of the crossmember to clear the bigger shaft.

I installed the shaft and tried driving the truck. As soon as it moved I heard rubbing in another location just behind where the crossmember is. Back in the shop it went. I could see the shiny stripe on the aluminum shaft where it was now contacting the floorboard itself where the floor dips lower behind the seats, I guess you could call it the footwell for the jump seats.

So I removed the trans mount, cut and rewelded it to allow the tail of the tranny to sit about 3/4" lower. That allowed clearance at the rubbing point enough that I could fit my fingers in. Took it for a test ride. No rubbing.

But then I took a passenger with me and the dog in the bed an it rubbed every time i hit a small bump in the road.

That's where I am now. I am either going to remove the shaft to hammer the floorboard up out of the way or put a few spacers in the cab mounts to give me some room under there.

Any other ideas are welcome.

snoranger · Jun 19, 2011

fivestring said:
That's where I am now. I am either going to remove the shaft to hammer the floorboard up out of the way or put a few spacers in the cab mounts to give me some room under there.

Any other ideas are welcome.

Check your rear cab mounts. Are they worn out, rusted, crushed?

rrbrian222 · Jun 19, 2011

Sorry to hear that your swap is a PITA, it really makes me scratch my head as to why there's a difference between my 95 2.3L/MT/2wd/SC and your 96 2.3L/MT/2wd/SC.

I agree with snoranger, check your cab mounts....somethings not right considering my swap was hassle free after the center bearing cross member removal process.

fivestring · Jun 20, 2011

Cab mounts appear to be stock and in good condition. Body lines from cab to bed are all aligned.
I pulled the shaft again today and the shiny band on it told me it was rubbing the floorboard directly above where the carrier bearing used to reside. So I rested a small floor jack on the crossmember and pushed a short chunk of 2x4 up against the floor. That did the trick. No more rubbing.

The floorboard directly behind the center console has a very unnoticable bump where it used to dip down slightly.

rrbrian222 · Jun 21, 2011

Glad you got your clearance issue resolved one way or another. I'm intrigued enough now that I'm going to crawl under my 95 and investigate how much room I have under that part of the cab. Maybe I just haven't loaded mine down enough yet to rub. The truck isn't my DD so it's not getting a lot of use, plus I seldom have passengers in the cab. The tech library article does reference some potential floorboard clearance issues on 2wd models.

EDIT:

Well I just took a look under my rig and did notice a small rub mark on the driveshaft corresponding to the location you clearanced with your floorjack and 2x4. The crossmember closer to the tranny extension housing appeared to have better clearance than yours; I was able to slip my pinky finger between it and the shaft. At some point I'm going to need to load my truck with heavy building materials so I'll know real quick if I'm going to have to do some modifications.

fivestring · Jun 21, 2011

I was considering lowering the rear of mine to level the truck. To do that, I need to almost make more of a 'tunnel' at those two points/ I am also concerned about hauling or towing.

The one-piece did make a difference in the truck. I had a pretty loud clunk every time I accelerated or let the clutch out. That is all gone and most of the vibrations I had at highway speeds.

rrbrian222 · Jun 22, 2011

I was considering going the opposite way, doing a cheap suspension lift; 4x4 blocks for the rear and some new springs up front. I wonder if that would restore enough clearance for my drive shaft? I'm not up for doing any major floorboard tweaking like what you'd need to do to level your truck.

ZMan · Jun 22, 2011

A 2wd Ranger will not have any clearance issues with the shaft untill you lower it more than 4 inches in the back. I've had my aluminum shaft in my truck for 7 years and haven't had a single problem, had it on there stock height, lowered 2", and now lowered 4". Still have the old carrier bearing crossmember in there too. How worn out your leafsprings are could affect clearance if you lower it though, my springs are basically like new, truck had a big rake when I bought it.

Raising a 2wd however could make it contact the crossmember, but removing it isn't a big deal, its only there for the carrier bearing.

forzda · Sep 22, 2011

I swapped a 99n Ranger 3" aluminum one piece drive shaft into my 96 Mazda(with a two piece shaft , hanger bearing grenaded ), with no problems. Both trucks are 3.0 , automatics , extended cabs . The only thing I had to Mazda was remove the plate on the cross member that held the hanger bearing . it took me an hour to do this , that was removing the ranger shaft a, Mazda bracket , Mazda shaft and installing the ranger shaft in the Mazda /
I change of the drive shaft from a two piece to a one piece has made the truck so much better to drive , more responsive . less vibrations
I would recommend this change to all the owners with a two piece drive shaft

rrbrian222 · Sep 23, 2011

Forzda, any rub marks on your driveshaft yet? I didn't know mine was rubbing at all until fivestring's issue made me go look. Since then I clearanced the floorboard under the truck's extended cab section where the shaft runs through, nothing major, just tweaked it with a claw hammer and then painted (POR-15) the roughed up metal for rust prevention. Other than that, this swap is a must for all two-piece owners fed up with their carrier bearing.

I noticed in Zman's build thread that he just did some extensive clearancing to handle his 4" suspension drop.

Pretty cool. I believe 98+ Ext cabs have something similar from the factory. Pics courtesy of Zman's thread:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1574

2WD One-Piece Drive Shaft Swap?

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