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Old 01-03-2008, 07:22 AM   #1
DennisH
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Default Throw out bearing? Help plz asap

So the problem is when i let the clutch out (in gear or not) there's a rattling sound coming from the tranny about where the throw out bearing is. I susspect that this is the culprit but it may be due to extremly cold weather (The low was 0 F today) I've been hearing this sound for a couple weeks now, but it was allways just a little bit of a vibrating noise then it would quit after the truck had ran for about 3 mins. My tranny is leaking just enough to cover the back half of the case on the bottom but doesnt drip on the ground if you let it sit. I replaced and filled it full with fluid about 3,000 miles ago so it should be pretty full still. I first started hearing it after I replaced my headgaskets but I dont think this has anything to do with it. It is now a constant rattling and vibrating noise like the bearing is dry or busted. It also whines really bad in 1st-3rd gears and probably in 4th and 5th too but I haven't got it that fast due to the extremly poor road conditions (Snow). There isn't too much clanging around just a fast vibrating noise. What could this possibly be and what parts do you think that i would need. I think that I'm going to need a Throw out bearing, gasket kit, Fluid, and while I'm in there I might as well replace the clutch, clutch plate possibly, face the fly wheel, and replace the slave cylnder. Can you think of anything else? And what clutch do you guys reccomend for daily driver and offroad use ( Woods lanes, fields, med. to light towing?) Not SERIOUS wheeling but it see's mud on a weekly basis. Also what Transmission does this model have? It's a 1994 Ford Ranger 4x4 5 speed V-6 3.0L Manual lockouts 3.73 gears 31x9.5xR15 Timberline M/T's
Thanks, I need to get this fixed before the middle to end of next week, and I'm doing the work myself, is why I'm in a hurry.
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Old 01-03-2008, 07:41 AM   #2
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i have a question for you when you rev the engine does the noise get louder?
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Old 01-03-2008, 07:50 AM   #3
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Umm, not really, i tried that and it didnt drastically get louder. I would say that it did somewhat, but not to the same speed as the engine if that helps
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Old 01-03-2008, 09:26 AM   #4
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Yeah, it might be a release bearing. But when you have the transmission out, remove the top cover and inspect the gears for damage, especially on the input end. Feel the input shaft for excessive floppiness. 'Cause your leak can eat up the transmission and cause knocking while the clutch is slipping as well. THE way to tell the difference is if the problem shows up in 5th but not 4th. With bad conditions, you can try it in low range, and it won't be very fast. If traction is good, leave the hubs open.


Replace the slave and clutch at the same time, unless they are in perfect condition (if they are just good, replace them).
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Old 01-03-2008, 02:30 PM   #5
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every time you have a manual transmission out of a Ranger you should replace the slave cylinder. They are the weakest link in the manual transmission.
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Old 01-03-2008, 02:51 PM   #6
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I wouldn't call them the weakest link -- they really aren't anywhere near as bad as people say (150K miles on a hydraulic piston is pretty good -- you wouldn't expect more from brake calipers or wheel cylinders, for instance), but it's such a massive PITA to get them out that it's a good idea to replace them when in there, anyway.

Slaves aren't often the first thing to fail/wear out, which is why they aren't the weakest link. That would be the clutch itself. The pilot and release bearings are debatable; all these things last about the same.
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1990 VW Jetta GL, 1.8L 8V gasoline engine, manual transmission, painted in oxidized red paint and ponderosa pine sap, unknown mileage.

1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles.

1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2.
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Old 01-04-2008, 07:22 AM   #7
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wow this is going to suck it sounds like. I'm mechanically knowledgable, but i've never done anything with my transmission and I refuse to pay somone bookoo bucks just to do somthing that I can do but I will have to allow for extra time. I've got off work Thur. - Sun next week and im currently done unil monday night ( I work 3rd) so i will have some time to do it. But its going to be a PITA in a fridged barn on concrete floors with no heat. I would greatly appreciate it if somone could do a write up on the steps it takes to get the slave/clutch/bearings out. I'm going to get parts today if i get some sleap and wake up on time. my truck has 168,000 miles on it so its about time this stuff gets changed. i replaced the clutch at around 100K miles so im not thinking i need a new one, but like you guys said, just repace it when im in there or i will be dropping the tranny again. Currently the clutch isn't slipping but i have to double clutch to take off alot of times. This is probably due to the bigger tires i have on it (30x9.5xR15) when i drop the tranny should i get the Fly wheel faced off? Do you reccomend replaceing the clutch plate as well when i replace the clutch, slave, and bearings?? And what do you think i should get when i get to the parts counter? I'm not affraid to buy more then i need 'cuase i can just return it if i dont use it.
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Old 01-04-2008, 09:35 AM   #8
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"Someone" is called Haynes. Don't ask people to do stuff for you that you can buy.

ALWAYS get the flywheel resurfaced (or replace it with a reman -- essentially the same cost and essentially the same thing, but one less trip to the auto parts store) when changing the clutch.
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1990 VW Jetta GL, 1.8L 8V gasoline engine, manual transmission, painted in oxidized red paint and ponderosa pine sap, unknown mileage.

1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles.

1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:22 PM   #9
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When I did mine I bought a new flywheel (complete with ring gear) for about $60.00 at Autozone. Getting one used and then having it resurfaced would probably cost as much or more plus the added hassle of dealing with the machine shop. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:36 PM   #10
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For $60, that wasn't a new flywheel. It was a reman. A bit on the pricey side, too. Last time I did this (on the Exploder), I spent $35 on a reman flywheel, whereas resurfacing mine would have cost $30. For flywheels, remanufacturing essentially means resurfacing, so it's not surprising at all that the cost is comparable.

A new flywheel will easily break $100. Note that flexplates are a lot cheaper, but if you're doing a clutch job, you don't have one.

Whenever you get a new cast iron wear part (such as a flywheel or brake drum), subject it to a "ring" test before leaving the store. Suspend it with a string or wire and strike it lightly with a smooth steel object like the side of a screwdriver. It should "ring." If it goes "thud," it's cracked.
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1990 VW Jetta GL, 1.8L 8V gasoline engine, manual transmission, painted in oxidized red paint and ponderosa pine sap, unknown mileage.

1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles.

1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2.
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