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Old 07-16-2010, 11:43 PM   #1
goheels681
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Default Camshaft Position Synchronizer replacement, any directions?

After a new squeak developed in my car, which I thought was just a belt, some internet sleuthing has told me that I need to replace my camshaft position synchronizer.

I'm just now getting into the realm of car repair, and there are plenty of directions on how to do this, but they're very obviously written for people who have a bit of experience. I know all about the whole gear, I understand I need the positioning tool (as to why...not sure), and I know I need to get the engine to TDC.

Can anyone here give me, in dumber-than-dirt, spelled-out directions, how exactly I replace this? Specifically, how to get the engine to TDC and any clues on getting the old one out and new one in with everything lined up the way it should be?

Engine is a 4.0 OHV in a '00 Explorer
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Old 07-17-2010, 08:49 AM   #2
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I can tell you how to get to TDC. What you do is take the plug out of cylinder no. 1 and have a friend rotate the crank pulley to turn the engine over until the piston reaches the compression stroke. (when both valves are closed.) when the piston reaches the top of the stroke, you have reached TDC on cylinder no. 1. As per installation all i know is that the synchronizer needs to be 60 degrees counterclockwise of engine centerline on the 4.0 and that you need to torque the bolts on the assembly 28-30 in. lbs.


Hope this helped, Jeremy


Oh, btw this is by no means an easy job and will take you a long time with two people and will be almost impossible with one. Thats why i just had the stealership do mine as much as it pains me.
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Old 07-17-2010, 08:51 AM   #3
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Oh, and in an 00 explorer you got a 4.0 SOHC, not a pushrod actuated OHV. Idk if it uses the two or three pin stator but they work completely differently and DO NOT INTERCHANGE so be careful what you order and if your doing this DIY style make sure its returnable. Also, You really should take off your serpentine belt and start the engine up to make sure its the cam synchro before you go spendin big bucks to replace a part when a $20 dollar idler pulley could have been the issue.
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Old 07-17-2010, 12:41 PM   #4
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ok im confused make sure it is a SOHC which it should be in a '00 there is no cam syncro only a cam position sensor that is in the left side valve cover and it doesn't move in the block where the syncro would be on a pushrod engine its just a plug because there is no cam in the block my guess would be like mr99 is prolly idler or tensioner
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Old 07-18-2010, 12:56 AM   #5
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Sup, window sticker?
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Old 07-18-2010, 01:50 PM   #6
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Can you take a picture of the engine please?
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Old 07-19-2010, 01:00 AM   #7
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It's exactly like the one at the bottom of the first post linked here.

Lord, does the window sticker off the car directly from Ford not suffice? Model-year 2000 apparently was the last year they included the engine. Mine was made October 1999
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Old 07-19-2010, 01:28 AM   #8
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I will make the suggestion to only purchase the factory part from Ford. I tried to save a few bucks last summer when I did mine and got an after market that did not set in correctly and tripped a check engine light the next morning. Also when I tried to get the after market one out of the back of the block it was locked in with the o-ring forcing me to remove the entire intake (upper and lower) to gain access to get it out of the hole. I went to ford adn picked one up and the truck as been fine ever since.

The camshaft synchro will sound like a whinning belt but it we be heard very well back by the transmission and almost sound as if the sound is coming from the transmission and can be heard very well from under the truck.
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Old 07-19-2010, 11:39 AM   #9
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my apologies i was pretty sure they switched in the exploder in '98 that said eliminate the tensioner and/or idler first take the belt off and start the truck see if the is still there
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Old 07-24-2010, 03:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahl_7s View Post
my apologies i was pretty sure they switched in the exploder in '98 that said eliminate the tensioner and/or idler first take the belt off and start the truck see if the is still there
I thought they switched too. Oh, well definitely remove the belt first as we said and if thats not the culprit then its probably your Cam synchro. and definitely use the motorcraft part, At least i did. I never go cheap on any ignition or fuel delivery components. Keep us posted.
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