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Ford Factory Coil Spring Spacers To Level Your Ranger / Bronco II
Stock Rangers sit 1-1/2 inches lower in the front than the rear. Actually, it's not the the front sits down...the rear sits up a little so that once the bed is loaded up it won't sag as bad. Many enthusiasts don't haul that much and would prefer to have the truck site more level.
1990's Ford F-150 2WD Spring Seats:
Ford used spring perches on the early 1990's F-150's that sat under the bottom of the coil spring. The part numbers are;
(these parts are shown to fit 1990-1996 Ford F-150 & F-250)
Factory Spacers F2TZ-5A307-A and F2TZ-5A307-B
These cost me about $15 each at the local Ford dealer's parts counter.
The part numbers apparently refer to right and left and can be ordered from your local Ford parts department. These pieces fit on top of the TTB's and take the place of the current perches the front coils now set on. They are marked 4x2R/L. However, when fitted on the Ranger, they seem to do best with the 4x2R on the LEFT and vice-versa.
WARNING: Using leveling spacers or coils can lead to quite an alignment problem. Positive camber results from this type of lift, and if you do not have enough adjustment available in your factory camber bushings you will need aftermarket ones. It is important to understand how camber alignment on the ford TTB is accomplished, and what you will need to do to bring the tires back into spec after the lift. Otherwise you will have headaches with alignment afterwards.
1990's Ford F-150 4X4 Spring Seats:
E8TA-5A307-BA (passenger side) and E8TA-5B316-BA (driver side) have been found to be spacers used in the 1990's Ford 4x4's.
The E8TA-5A307-BA is 1-1/8" tall, and the E8TA-5B316-BA is 3/4" tall. These spacers were said to be found in a 1991 Ford F-150 4x4 with a 6-cylinder engine.
E8TA-5A307-BA (passenger side) and E8TA-5B316-BA (driver side)
Installation By: Eric Steinberg
The install went relatively smoothly. At
first we didn't have the correct tools to get the spring retainer nut off.
A 1 1/8" box-end wrench seems to be the best tool for the job. Aside
from that you will just need your metric wrenches or sockets (18mm) for
the shock and sway-bar nuts. Just make sure you can get some leverage.
Several applications of penetrating oil (such as Liquid Wrench) to shock,
sway bar, and spring retainer nuts a few days before can't hurt either. An
impact driver is nice to have.
While you have the chance, take a wire
brush to that bolt. It will remove some of the rust and the nut will go
back on a lot more easily than it came off.
Make sure the spacer sits down flat and does not rock on that "finger". Install the nylon washer that was under the spring and be sure that it is facing the same way as it was originally. Do not use the old metal spring perch, just the nylon washer.
Re-install the coil spring, retainer, and nut. Once everything is looking good, get that nut good and tight. The nice thing about these spacers is that they leave just enough thread on the bolt to get the entire retainer nut threaded on. Jack the suspension up enough to re-attach the shock and swaybar link. Put your tire back on and repeat on the other side.
The '5A307' in the part number appears to be a reference number for a spring seat. Just because it has '5A307' in the number doesn't mean it will have any height for lift. For example, F0TZ-5A307-A is a coil seat for a Ford Ranger. This doesn't provide lift. It's just a stock part that covers the radius arm stud and helps position the coil spring.
The Nylon Washer:
The nylon washer referenced to above (4 photos up) is a coil spring isolator. This isolator keeps suspension Noise, Vibration, and Harmonics (NVH) from being transmitted to the rest of the chassis. Over time, the rubber deteriorates due to wear and exposure to the elements.
Daystar offers a replacement P/N KU09021BK