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BY
4x4Junkie
The
Skyjacker suspension kits are among the highest overall quality you'll
find for the Ranger/Explorer/Bronco II. Unfortunately, they aren't
without a few small issues.
Following are some tips for dealing with the minor quirks of these
suspension kits and getting the best performance from it. This is from
my own experience on installing three such kits on three different
trucks:
The Skyjacker coil springs are among the softer, more flexy coils you'll
find among the major kit manufacturers. Because of this, you will likely
need 1" coil spacers to go under the bottom spring perches, along
with possibly a couple additional washers to total about 1 1/4 - 1
1/2" if installing on a Supercab (Skyjacker should specify a longer
(NOT stiffer) coil for the heavier trucks, but for some reason they
don't). 4.0L Reg cab trucks may need a 3/4 - 1" spacer. BroncoIIs
and 4cyl. Rangers shouldn't need more than 1/2" of spacer, if any
at all.
Here
is the coilspacer installation on a Supercab w/Dana35 axle
The
spacer (along with any 1-3/8" I.D. washers needed) goes under the
bottom coilspring perch (washers first) which is on the top stud/bolt
attaching the radius arm to the axle. Be sure these bolts are torqued to
200-250 ft-lbs (the coil retaining nut only needs about 75). It is also
possible in some cases to use the next size up coilspring and do away
with using a spacer completely. Skyjacker pt.# 136 coils (spec'd at
6" lift) produce 4.5" lift on a 4.0V6 Supercab 4X4 and work
well with the axle mounted on the 4" bracket position (upper
holes). The steering linkage angle will be better with the axle in the
upper holes as well.
A
second item is the overload leaf on the rear leaf springs that usually
gets crooked. Threading 2 nuts with a flat washer between them down the
rear U-bolts and tightening them together alongside the leaf will keep
it inline. The leaf will then butt up against the edge of the washer
keeping it straight. I have found trying to use the OE retainer on
the Skyjacker leaf to not work. The small tabs tend to give way.
A
third item is with the Skyjacker DOT braided brakelines. The banjo
fitting that attaches to the brake caliper needs a bit of grinding (or
filing) at a 45 degree angle on one corner. This will allow you to put
it in a better position (less vulnerable to rubbing on the tire, and
allows for more suspension travel). In addition, the brakeline should be
secured to the coil winding with a zip-tie to help keep it away from the
tire, as well.
Often
some grinding on the backside of the driver side axle beam at and around
the support bolt for the diff is needed to get the radius arm of a Class
II kit to fully seat forward so you can get the main bolts through. The
radius arm itself may also need grinding on the flat area between the
axle mounting ears. This one is not exclusive to Skyjacker. I've seen
this clearance issue at the diff a few times with different kits. It may
be due to manufacturing tolerance variations at Ford. This will
most likely be needed on the Dana35 axle. Dana28 axles probably won't
have this issue.
If tire rub occurs on the rear lower part of the front fender, I have
found it is possible to move the front axle forward about 3/4" by
rearranging the assembly order of the radius arm bushings (and/or using
different bushings). The little OE Ford plastic spacer can be assembled
onto the frontside of the supplied bushing, for example, instead of
behind as described in the instructions. The axle can be moved as much
as one inch forward via the radius arms without creating a problem
elsewhere.
I had the plastic spacer crack once (assembled as per the instructions).
After replacing it with a new one, I tightened a hose clamp around it
for support and its held up fine since. Not sure if this is common or
not, but is a good preventative measure.
Lastly,
I have found the replacement transmission crossmember supplied with the
Class II kits is of somewhat thin tubing. Although it is plenty strong
to support the transmission, a good impact, high-centering it on a large
rock can dent or bend it.
I put a piece of 1 - 1-1/4" dia. cold-roll steel bar (dowel) inside
the crossmember tube and welded it at both ends. The dowel should be
about 1/2" shorter than the tube length so the welds don't
interfere with mounting it to the radius arm brackets.
This adds considerable strength to it so it can survive Rubicon (sized)
rocks without bending. 3/16" wall tubing can be used inside the
crossmember if you feel solid dowel is overkill (weight).
With the above suggestions applied to the Skyjacker Class II suspension
system, an even greater level of performance and durability can be
achieved from an already great kit.~TRS
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