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DanVB1
02-05-2009, 09:38 AM
I would like to offer some information I got from my brother who worked for AutoZone (and now O’Reilly’s) as a commercial parts driver.
He talked to a few professional mechanics that performed the Seafoam cleaning by adding it directly to the intake manifold via vacuum hose. A few said they hydro-locked the engine after the engine sucked up most of the can within seconds. A Cadillac mechanic actually destroyed a Northstar by doing this (broke a rod).
Coincidentally my brother had a similar mishap with his Camaro. Once the SF liquid got into his engine, it stopped (locked-up). After trying to restart, he broke the starter drive since the engine was locked! Luckily, only a starter replacement was necessary.
Bottom Line? If you attempt, Please do so slowly with caution. I did this to my Ranger by dripping the liquid into a vacuum fitting at the front of the engine using a large plastic lab pipette (“eyedropper”).
You can find the typical procedure on the net, but most sites do not warn of the potential disasters that await if done too quickly.
I hope this will prevent one of us from destroying our engine!

DCarey515
02-05-2009, 09:46 AM
It tells you on the can to do it slowly............:icon_twisted:

small ranger
02-05-2009, 09:56 AM
Who ever reads directions? The only time most people read the directions is after the fact, you know..... When it did not work, or in this case the motor stopped and the can is empty.

DCarey515
02-05-2009, 10:00 AM
LMAO!!!:icon_rofl:

DanVB1
02-05-2009, 10:09 AM
The point is that the contents of the can may be sucked so quickly that many ounces of liquid may be drawn into the cylinders.
Literaure on the cleaning does not really say how this can be prevented. Every engine is different, places to add the SF different, etc., so a blanket procedure is not possible.
You may think you are doing it slowly, but within in a few seconds, the damage can be done!

Crunchy
02-05-2009, 10:20 AM
I always hold my finger over the vaccum line - in other words, be a human regulator.

Wasn't there some guy who poured the foam into his intake with the engine off and then tried to crank it?

DCarey515
02-05-2009, 10:23 AM
probably that Cadillac mechanic..............

240cubes
02-05-2009, 10:29 AM
i put it in via the vaacum hose on all of my vehicles and ive never had any problems...

shadetree
02-05-2009, 10:31 AM
I use water. Cheaper, no damage, and does a better job.:)shady

rurouni20xx
02-05-2009, 12:57 PM
i did it once, on the vacuum line i put a lawn mower inline fuel shutoff and cocked it a hair, if the engine slowed i closed the valve and once it picked up again i eased it open and let it take some more. basically i just cracked the valve and it did fine.

fleck
02-05-2009, 01:48 PM
You're only supposed to use 1/3 of the can through the vacuum. I used the PCV valve and it took about 5 minutes to suck in a coffee cup worth without dying.

When we changed my spark plugs and oil I put an ENTIRE can of intake cleaner into the manifold while the truck was off (woops). The truck was seized. I was worried. My mechanic took out a spark plug and it was soaked, started the truck and it spat out all the fluid out of the spark plug hole.

GoodysGotaCuda
02-05-2009, 08:58 PM
Liquid doens't compress? Hmm thats a new one.


j/k YEA you absolutely will hydro-lock an engine if you put too much of a liquid in a running engine. There is no "DANGER", it's more common sense. If you aren't "educated" enough to use it through the vacuum source, then you need to just run it through the fuel and stay out from under the hood.

..sorry, just my 2cents. It's kinda like if i said "flying is dangerous! i tried to fly a 747 and crashed." Yea, it's dangerous if you don't know what the hell you're doing lol

GoodysGotaCuda
02-05-2009, 08:59 PM
I use water. Cheaper, no damage, and does a better job.:)shady

ATF as well

shadetree
02-05-2009, 10:46 PM
ATF as well
Still not as cheap as water, plus, it's still a petroleum product and will leave residue when burned.:)shady

Wicked_Sludge
02-05-2009, 11:49 PM
I use water. Cheaper, no damage, and does a better job.:)shady

water will cause a hydrolocked situation the same as seafoam if added too fast...:icon_confused:

GoodysGotaCuda
02-05-2009, 11:51 PM
water will cause a hydrolocked situation the same as seafoam if added too fast...:icon_confused:

ANY liquid CAN cause a hydrolock. Even fuel if it isn't atomized/vapor.

Beanmachine7000
02-06-2009, 12:08 AM
Whenever I Seafoam (yes, I'm using it as a verb... It's so good it deserves it) I can barely suck up any without the engine almost dying... I've never done it on anything OBDII though, if that would even make a difference...

sbsumerix
02-07-2009, 01:28 PM
i use a squirt bottle to atommize it in a way just a bit at a time the engine still wants to run rough while you do it so only a couple squirts then wait then some more

Roadkill
02-08-2009, 09:23 AM
I've used it plenty of times and just read the F'ing can first. Those "mechanics", and I use the word VERY loosely, are just plain idiots is all.

slycer2002
02-10-2009, 03:28 AM
Hi, I've been reading this thread with great, ahem, amusement, but I have to ask. What is this Seafoam intake cleaner you're talking about? I've never heard of it. Sorry to sound like a newb, but I've been an RBV owner for fifteen years, and have never heard of this. Oh, my poor, neglected engine!!!:bawling:

Sunk
02-10-2009, 03:34 AM
Hi, I've been reading this thread with great, ahem, amusement, but I have to ask. What is this Seafoam intake cleaner you're talking about? I've never heard of it. Sorry to sound like a newb, but I've been an RBV owner for fifteen years, and have never heard of this. Oh, my poor, neglected engine!!!:bawling:

It's just a cure-all-in-a-can you can find at probably all part stores.

fleck
02-10-2009, 03:43 AM
Do make sure to be ready to change your oil and maybe spark plugs. I know my oil is definitely brown now after the Seafoam, and the truck is now running like shit, probably the spark plugs fouled up from the Seafoam. This isn't something I was warned about. Not even 1,000 miles and spending $25 on oil and plugs again already. Bah, at least it's clean.

WNY964x4
02-10-2009, 06:59 AM
Do make sure to be ready to change your oil and maybe spark plugs. I know my oil is definitely brown now after the Seafoam, and the truck is now running like shit, probably the spark plugs fouled up from the Seafoam. This isn't something I was warned about. Not even 1,000 miles and spending $25 on oil and plugs again already. Bah, at least it's clean.

i have never heard of it ruining plugs and oil , my buddy uses it religously in his prelude , and he does his oil changes ever 5k miles , and he has not changed the plugs in it since he bought it , and as i said , he uses seafoam religously , he will never use anything else

fleck
02-10-2009, 07:22 AM
i have never heard of it ruining plugs and oil , my buddy uses it religously in his prelude , and he does his oil changes ever 5k miles , and he has not changed the plugs in it since he bought it , and as i said , he uses seafoam religously , he will never use anything else

well, these two posts are from my thread (on page 2) 'weird tach behavior after sea foam':

'The oil and plugs NEED to be changed with 800 miles of sea foaming your engine. Sea Foam fouls plugs and all that carbon that is broken down is inside the oil.

If you only changed the plugs and oil before the sea foam job. You gotta do it again.'


Oh yeah, what mtn said: do NOT run that batch of crankcase oil too long after SeaFoam, or ANY fuel injector cleaner, etc... it breaks down oil. i.e. figure you run out the tank of gas you poured it in, and then ONE more tank AT MOST, then change... read the label... there's a warning to that effect on there... in REAL TINY print...'

It makes sense, my oil is now thick and dark and before the sea foam it looked as light and slick as the day it was put in there.

fleck
02-10-2009, 07:44 AM
Good page with tons of info:

http://yotatech.com/f2/seafoam-intake-plenum-injector-cleaning-procedure-45285/

Sea Foam should always be done before an oil change. It looks like that's the conclusion.

Beanmachine7000
02-10-2009, 12:58 PM
Good page with tons of info:

http://yotatech.com/f2/seafoam-intake-plenum-injector-cleaning-procedure-45285/

Sea Foam should always be done before an oil change. It looks like that's the conclusion.

Wow, I've always used Seafoam right after I changed my oil, never had any problems with it... I think it's B.S. it even says on the can you can put it in your crankcase oil...

DanVB1
02-13-2009, 10:34 AM
I would always do this type of cleaning immediately before an oil change. Some gunk may break loose and find its way into the oil.
Again, my warning is that a large slug of liquid can be drawn into an engine so quickly, that you don't have any time to react.
Be careful!

jasonl
02-15-2009, 11:53 PM
Still not as cheap as water, plus, it's still a petroleum product and will leave residue when burned.:)shady

I can see water cleaning piston tops nice because of the steam, but it wouldn't do so much for intake valves. I guess that is where an in tank cleaner would work good. How do you do the water method?? Just like seafoam etc??

Beanmachine7000
02-16-2009, 12:06 AM
I would always do this type of cleaning immediately before an oil change. Some gunk may break loose and find its way into the oil.
Again, my warning is that a large slug of liquid can be drawn into an engine so quickly, that you don't have any time to react.
Be careful!

Well, I think if Seafoam would make a large chunk of sludge fall off and clog up your oiling system it was probably pretty close to doing it already... Or are you talking about hydro locking the engine? Before I really knew what I was doing (16 years old) I put Seafoam in my 2.3 Ranger through the brake booster vacuum line and actually had the entire line in the cup of Seafoam and all it did was sputter real bad... I might have been lucky, and I wouldn't advise it, because I'm sure it could happen, I think most people just think the internal combustion engine is alot more finicky and delicate than it really is... That's my .02... Of course now I slowly put in Seafoam, making sure it passes through the air before it even reaches the vacuum line (helps atomize it before it even gets to the intake manifold)...

z3ro
02-16-2009, 08:52 AM
I've seafoamed 2 vehicles, my 02 b3k and my 94 honda accord. I've never ever had problems with the stuff.

What i use is a chalk dust refill bottle. I unscrew the top and fill the bottle full, then put the top back on. Then i just let the vacuum line suck in right from the nipple. Works perfect every time!

And it will foul your plugs. Makes em burn super hot

fleck
02-16-2009, 06:22 PM
And it will foul your plugs. Makes em burn super hot

The plugs look fine, tint darker than when I put them in but they look good.

z3ro
02-16-2009, 06:37 PM
The plugs look fine, tint darker than when I put them in but they look good.

i meant if your plugs are already kinda old. I usually do mine right before i do a plug change

Viper Command
02-16-2009, 09:01 PM
the right tools for the right job,
there is an (IV) available from you local tool truck just for this use

it will be a bottle w/ a vac. gauge and a ball valve and a billet drip window w/ a Y block at the end.

z3ro
02-16-2009, 09:04 PM
wat?

dogboy
02-16-2009, 09:11 PM
Uhhh... Is there two types of SeaFoam cleaner??

I have NEVER heard of adding it into a vacuum line... Isn't the idea to clean the injectors? If you add it through a vacuum line, it is never reaching the injectors. Injectors don't inject air... only fuel.

I have only headr of adding it to the fuel. That is the only way I have ever used it, or heard of it being used.

Roadkill
02-16-2009, 09:13 PM
On the can it states to use 1/3 added through a vac line, 1/3 in the fuel tank, then 1/3 in the oil. Drive it for about 100 miles then change the oil out.

fleck
02-16-2009, 09:40 PM
Yeah on the can, their web site and every guide I've ever read it says put 1/3rd of the can into the PCV valve (I don't know why people choose the brake booster line).

dogboy
02-17-2009, 12:28 PM
Hmmm.. Ok. The can I got said to add the can to 10-20 gallons of gas, depending on the mixture you want.

The fuel part must be to clean the injectors, and the other parts are for sludge or something then (liek has been posted already).

Wicked_Sludge
02-18-2009, 12:00 AM
I might have been lucky

you were lucky. i knew a guy (mechanic) who was in a hurry and doing a JB emission service for a customer (similar to seafoam). he stuck the brake booster line in the can and let it eat. it hydrolocked the engine and his shop had to repair it and eat the bill.

99RangerBoss
02-18-2009, 12:06 AM
lol i did that but didn't hydrolock the motor the van line sucked the can right in the crushed it not letting any liquid in thank god.

Bob Ayers
02-18-2009, 09:11 AM
A Cadillac mechanic actually destroyed a Northstar by doing this (broke a rod).



Northstars are known to do this without any help at all!!!:headbang:

RumpRanger98
02-20-2009, 09:18 PM
Im new here but Ive used seafoam for years. someone mentioned they don't know why people use it on the brake booster line? Well Im not sure on the Ranger exactly, im in process of buying one, on some cars the brake booster line is easier to access, and where the brake booster line is pulled from is on the top of the intake plenum, which will make sure your getting the seafoam spread through the intake and all cylinders.

What I usually do is put 1/2 a can seafoam into oil a few hundred miles before i need to change it.

Then when oil change time comes I slowly slowly suck the rest through the brake booster. turn off and let sit for 20 minutes. Start it up let it idle for 10 minutes, you can slightly tap the throttle a little bit. Then I go drive it until the smoke stops pooring out. Then come back change oil.

I don't use any in my tank, just high octane gas. Injectors for my car are very sensitive. This is all on my 92 Maxima SE tho. Like someone mentioned that some cars are different and you'll do it a bit different for each vehicle, but its basically the same idea