Stamos86
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2019
- Messages
- 7
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 1
- Location
- Northwest Arkansas
- Vehicle Year
- 1988
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger
- Engine Type
- 2.9 V6
- Transmission
- Automatic
- 2WD / 4WD
- 4WD
Hey! I am not a mechanic by any means, but I am a mechanical engineer. So I like to figure things out and I have been learning a lot by working on this truck.
I got my 88 Ranger recently and at first it wouldn't run much at all. It is kind of a family heirloom as they bought it in 87 and have kept it since. However it had been sitting for 5 years before I recently acquired it.
Figured out the fuel tank was rotted out so replaced pretty much the whole fuel system to and from engine. I had a mechanic do that part. I am not sure that the fuel pressure regulator was replaced though. The fuel injectors were cleaned, and 2 were replaced. After that it was running, but not well. Practically zero acceleration and still died a lot. Replaced the MAP sensor, TPS, Spark Plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor, and IAC. So it has been getting better.
My issue now is that, when cold, it idles rough and sometimes dies on its own. If I try to drive it without letting it warm up for a few minutes, when I accelerate, almost nothing happens and when I let off the pedal it dies. This will happen a few times before I guess it is warm enough for some reason.
1. I thought it may be the EEC-IV feedback loop not operating correctly because I know the O2 sensor at least has been disconnected/bypassed somehow. There are a lot of sensors that have been removed from the looks of some of the loose cables under the hood.
2. There is also something disconnected that I am not sure what it is (See image below).
3. There was some oil on the spark plugs when I removed them. So that means, and correct me if I'm wrong please, that either the valve cover gasket is leaking, O-Rings in the spark plug wells are leaking, bad piston compression rings, cracked piston, or worn valve guides. Could it also be something else?
So my questions are basically:
1. Could the EEC-IV not having all the information it needs cause this issue? If not, what would it improve by me getting it back to where it needs to be? I would also need to know where the EEC-IV is, because the O2 sensor in it now doesn't connect to anything and I don't see a connector to attach it to. I may have to run a new connector from the EEC, right?
2. What is the sensor/thingy in the image below with the wire to nowhere, and what does it do?
3. I know i need to fix the oil on the spark plugs issue. Would this cause my issue from above? How would you do it? Just replace all the stuff I mentioned? I also read that I may be able to get an updated valve cover that doesn't have the same issues of the original.
4. Seems like it would be a good idea to go ahead and replace the remaining fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator. Especially if it may be affecting my issue. What do you think?
From my research I have also heard it may be affected by:
PCV valve
EGR sensor/ Valve
EVP sensor
Ignition coil
Ignition timing
Transmission Vacuum Modulator
Intake air temp sensor?
ECT coolant temp sensor
Torque convertor
Also may be important to note that the CEL comes on around 10 minutes after driving it. I read that may be the O2 sensor.
Any advice would be great. I have a really good time working on this truck and would love to get it running well.
Thank you!
I got my 88 Ranger recently and at first it wouldn't run much at all. It is kind of a family heirloom as they bought it in 87 and have kept it since. However it had been sitting for 5 years before I recently acquired it.
Figured out the fuel tank was rotted out so replaced pretty much the whole fuel system to and from engine. I had a mechanic do that part. I am not sure that the fuel pressure regulator was replaced though. The fuel injectors were cleaned, and 2 were replaced. After that it was running, but not well. Practically zero acceleration and still died a lot. Replaced the MAP sensor, TPS, Spark Plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor, and IAC. So it has been getting better.
My issue now is that, when cold, it idles rough and sometimes dies on its own. If I try to drive it without letting it warm up for a few minutes, when I accelerate, almost nothing happens and when I let off the pedal it dies. This will happen a few times before I guess it is warm enough for some reason.
1. I thought it may be the EEC-IV feedback loop not operating correctly because I know the O2 sensor at least has been disconnected/bypassed somehow. There are a lot of sensors that have been removed from the looks of some of the loose cables under the hood.
2. There is also something disconnected that I am not sure what it is (See image below).
3. There was some oil on the spark plugs when I removed them. So that means, and correct me if I'm wrong please, that either the valve cover gasket is leaking, O-Rings in the spark plug wells are leaking, bad piston compression rings, cracked piston, or worn valve guides. Could it also be something else?
So my questions are basically:
1. Could the EEC-IV not having all the information it needs cause this issue? If not, what would it improve by me getting it back to where it needs to be? I would also need to know where the EEC-IV is, because the O2 sensor in it now doesn't connect to anything and I don't see a connector to attach it to. I may have to run a new connector from the EEC, right?
2. What is the sensor/thingy in the image below with the wire to nowhere, and what does it do?
3. I know i need to fix the oil on the spark plugs issue. Would this cause my issue from above? How would you do it? Just replace all the stuff I mentioned? I also read that I may be able to get an updated valve cover that doesn't have the same issues of the original.
4. Seems like it would be a good idea to go ahead and replace the remaining fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator. Especially if it may be affecting my issue. What do you think?
From my research I have also heard it may be affected by:
PCV valve
EGR sensor/ Valve
EVP sensor
Ignition coil
Ignition timing
Transmission Vacuum Modulator
Intake air temp sensor?
ECT coolant temp sensor
Torque convertor
Also may be important to note that the CEL comes on around 10 minutes after driving it. I read that may be the O2 sensor.
Any advice would be great. I have a really good time working on this truck and would love to get it running well.
Thank you!
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