Here's some interesting DIY stuff: http://hildstrom.com/projects/seafoam/
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Petroleum Naphtha is really a mixture of many compounds like all those things listed on the PM3 MSDS but covered by the Petroleum Naphtha term on the bottle.Additionally, Seafoam's main ingredients are now listed as being a "hydrocarbon blend" instead of listing the individual chemicals used like nearly all other manufacturers. It's largely a snake oil type of product, though it can help in certain scenarios.
As of about 1996, the approximate analysis of the formulation was as follows:
50% light hydrocarbon oil (pale oil);
30% petroleum naphtha;
10% isopropyl alcohol;
10% water.
From my reading on it, it seems like Naptha is really an un-refined petroleum product similar to gasoline. Un-refined gasoline basically. But I'm not a chemist by any stretch.Petroleum Naphtha is really a mixture of many compounds like all those things listed on the PM3 MSDS but covered by the Petroleum Naphtha term on the bottle.
Did you ever consider all your carbon build up issue could be root caused to the fact you are running Bosch spark plugs? Not trying to start an argument here… but just read in another thread you've been running them for 120K. My guess would be your carbon issues started about 118K ago.Nothing at all like seafoam. PM3 From the bottle:
Petroleum naphtha
2-butoxyethanol
oleic acid
ammonium hydroxide
kerosine, petroleum, hydrodesulfurized (no idea what this means but sounds like it's just diesel)
dodecylbenzenesulphonic acid
methyl amyl alcohol
I've been using for about 5 years. The only stuff that'll stop the carbon knock for more than a few weeks. You cannot put it in the tank. It has to be poured into a carb or sucked into the intake.
I've tried B-12/Lucas/ BG44k/seafoam (5 times)/many gumout products/techron (still use this in other vehicles)/ and many others.
I'm not saying these other things don't work but for the OHV carbon knock the PM3 does.
One thing I tried recently (free bottle) was gasoline extreme from Hot Shot. Sounded horrible on the tank that I added it to but the next few have been great.
I'm surprised this is so mysterious. the TSB has been around for 20 years.
What I picture when I read that comment:The strategy has worked well for me for nearly 40 years. I'm not changing it... ever.
All you hear coming out of Dirtmans cellar is "He passes her the lotion, She puts it on her skin."The women I made into dolls in my basement would be furious that you would think I used any chemicals on their perfect smooth lovely silky happy loving amazing....
Ok you've shamed me into it. I have a set of SP-500 (Motorcraft double plats) that are the recommended factory replacement. I'll install them this weekend. I promise. It will be a good test. I did get 18mpg on my last tank (70/30 city/highway) and they looked good last year when I pulled one to check but they have been in there since about 70k. My Jeep used plain old copper core (NGK) every 25-30k. My ranger always gets the least attention since I maintain 5 other vehicles.Did you ever consider all your carbon build up issue could be root caused to the fact you are running Bosch spark plugs? Not trying to start an argument here… but just read in another thread you've been running them for 120K. My guess would be your carbon issues started about 118K ago.
I actually preferred NGK above all. I'd probably say Autolight and maybe Denso after that but I really have no data other that using them myself. I don't have much experience with Motorcraft plugs but I tend to alway equate Motorcraft with quality so I'll give it a go.After 42 years in the dealer service department I won't use anything but Motorcraft plugs. If you look at Champion's cross reference chart you'll see they often equate one of their part numbers to multiple Motorcraft numbers with different heat ranges. I also never heard of carbon knock in a Ranger engine, the only ones I encountered with carbon knock were 200 and 250 six cylinders and the 1.8 dohc Mazda used in early 90's Escort GT's.