Good work on finding the issue with the WOT relay activating with key on, but there may be a reason
Yes, red wire should have 12v key on, 12v is from EEC relay, just FYI
Purple wire goes to computer pin 54, its the Ground that would activate the WOT relay at full throttle
BUT......................With RPMs at 0 computer SHOULD ground pin 54 to activate WOT relay so AC is OFF for engine startup
So I would test that again with engine running, purple wire should not be grounded with engine running
If so then could be computer issue or purple wire has a bare spot and is grounded to another wire or the body
Ok, so this is a new variable to consider (the RPM/Engine running). Some of the testing I did was
with Engine
on. Most not.
First, I want to highlight 2 things:
1. Ya'll are
fantastic!
2. I forgot to mention this.. After removing the TPS, I tested the TPS
connector. With Key ON, I jumped the 5v to the furthest-out, black wire (it has 3 pins/wires) which I think is the ground.
Will edit this later if needed: I believe the wires are, Red (hot w/ +5v), Blue (Signal?), Black (ground).
This caused the WOT relay to flip back.
remember, it actuates immediately with key on. I did not try this while engine on.
Here's my next step based on what info you guys just gave me:
1. Disconnect pressure switch and jump it to eliminate bad switch/low pressure variable.
2. Observe the WOT relay (cap is removed on the Chyna version) to see if it goes to deactivated position with
engine on.
3. Remove WOT relay and test volts on
Purple wire with
engine on for Volts and Ohm.
4. If nothing changes, I will snip the
Red wire (at the WOT socket) and tape the ends (leaving enough wire to add connectors just in case).
5. If
frustration persists and time allows, I will then
carefully place 3 high velocity, 9mm, lead components straight through the ECM.
~Last minute idea just before posting... Since I have
2 Relays that work, I think I will just snip the spade that connects to the
Red wire instead of snipping the wire.