Indeed.
I remember it once being common knowledge not to mix different brand (as well as new w/used) bearing cones & races, so what went awry with the brake rotor industry, I'm not sure...
I've seen reports of it happening on 2WDs too, though you are correct in that it doesn't seem to be as...
You're not telling me something I don't already know... The D35 wheel bearings are closer together than the D44's, yes. The WMS is outside of the bearing, yes. And absolutely yes there is a solution to that: Positive-offset wheels.
The factory RBV wheels had offsets of +12-19mm which puts the...
Well, I don't know where your figures come from... Other than length, the TTB D35 & ½-ton D44 spindles are much more the same than they are different (they even use the same Timken SET-37 wheel bearing). I'll assume you've never used the #37780 locking hubs because if you had, they almost...
So I got the AVM hubs on... Turns out there's virtually no clearance at all between the hub and center of the wheel. I put a piece of Gorilla Tape around the hub, as that is all that will still allow the wheel to fit. The AVM hubs (and I assume Rugged Ridge as well) have four tabs held in place...
Another option is military style terminals. (good if your hood is real close to the terminals since they don't stick up quite as high)
A good way to keep corrosion at bay on a flooded-type battery is to pull off the caps and wrap each plug with a couple wraps of teflon pipe thread sealing tape...
My first suggestion would be the ARB Air Locker (RD82 for 28-spline, RD81 for 31-spline). 2nd choice, maybe the selectable Eaton offers (E-Locker, I believe).
For a non-selectable (automatic locker), go with the Detroit Locker. The Yukon Grizzly might be available too, though I haven't...
It's your call... Do you already find yourself often struggling for traction in the places you frequent? Or are you just thinking you need a locker because you want to go someplace you haven't been to yet? If it's the latter, I'd say hold off until you actually go there and see if you infact...
IFS (CV joint) axles tend to be weaker than the U-jointed axles found on solid & TTB axles (also the rack & pinion steering is less robust). If you drive carefully and know your limits, you should be fine with up to 32-33" tires.
Hub diameter = 2.75".
I've seen this happen many times with that style of replacement terminal. I prefer to replace the entire cable with one having a pre-attached terminal when practical (and when not, then a pre-made cable cut to length and soldered to the existing cable(s) then shrink-wrapped).
Another option is...
Yeah the battery tray on a 1999 isn't very conducive to putting larger batteries in there, you're kindof stuck with what you have without significant reworking of the tray area.
Unfortunately I don't see much available in the way of group-59 AGMs.
I did find this one from Odyssey... It doesn't...
I bought a pre-fab dash cover for mine. I'm drawing a blank on what brand it was (CoverCraft, CoverKing, something to that effect).
There were a few challenges finalizing its fit (mostly getting the vent registers to look correct), but in the end it came out pretty decent (much better looking...
It's been many years since I dealt with this on mine,but I seem to recall what I did was use a sheetmetal screw to attach the clips back onto the surround. The correct-sized screw will create it's own threads inside the hole in the center of the post (I think it was a #8 sheetmetal screw I used...
Did you check in the Tech Library? Lots of info is available there... Maybe one of these links will help?
https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/transfer-case-troubleshooting/
https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/1995-2000-ford-ranger-4wd-control-module/...
Another vote for Luk.
I've seen (heard) some others squeal and howl when starting off from a stop (Sachs I think, just by looking at the design of the PP). Luk is who originally made the OEM clutches.
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