Recent content by kxri318

Also, I've heard you would get code 14 if there was a failing pip sensor, but I'm not getting any codes like that when I scan it. Just don't wanna go removing the distributor and buying parts if I'm not sure something is up with it. Did you get any codes like that when yours was failing?

This part, right? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1986,ranger,2.9l+177cid+v6,1137495,ignition,distributor+pickup+coil,7176 Honestly wouldn't be surprised if mine is caked in oil and junk because this truck has had oil leaks that look like they were left alone to leak for 25 years...

Its a gray no name brand module. I have another no name brand module I could try in its place, but I've never owned a motorcraft module as the truck came with an aftermarket one. Have tried both modules on the distributor mounting place and both overheated. Didn't try my spare on the...

I have a 1986 Ford Ranger with the 2.9 and A4LD auto and the TFI module has been consistently overheating on long drives (30+ mins). I changed the thermal compound to Arctic MX-4 and screwed it back down pretty tight with no improvement. I then decided to relocate the module to the fender with a...

When I removed my AC (previous owner mangled it) and threw in non-ac air ducting, it was completely packed full of leaves and honestly I was surprised it hadn't caught fire yet. Good to know that's something I should check more often though

I bought a pack of 121c thermal fuses for a couple bucks and put one in. It works great now on all speeds, thanks a ton.

Yeah I saw that too but that's for a 98 explorer. Wasn't sure if mine was slightly different or not.

The fan was only working on high in my 1986 Ford Ranger and I read that it could be caused by the resistor itself or corrosion in the connectors. I checked all the connections and they're all 100% corrosion free, so I tested the actual thermal fuse on the resistor itself and the fuse is blown...

I think it was just a fluke. I near floored it today (for science and definitely not for fun ;)) and it went from 1800-3800 then shifted fine. To answer your question though, it's timed right and the spouts plugged in

The speedometer works fine, but I can't lie, I haven't checked the fuel filter once in my 2 year ownership of the truck. Fuel pressure at idle is a good 30-40 psi though. Exhaust is the same diameter pipe that it came with and the cats are gutted.

No, it runs great under load. It just didn't budge past 3k.

1986 Ranger 2.9 auto 2WD. I floored it for a couple seconds or so while driving yesterday and it's like it hit a 3k rpm wall. It stuck exactly at 3k and held it; didn't go over that at all according to my tach and also what I was hearing. Doesn't affect normal driving at all because I rarely go...

Fixed the frayed shielding, no change, still runs the same and get the same code. Tried to do the cylinder balance test, but it didn't work. Its supposed to rev the engine up a little and start cutting fuel to each cylinder to test which one isn't contributing the same. It revved the engine up...

Last time I set the base timing was a few months ago at 11 degrees BTDC. Don't remember the per-cylinder results but it was all within 7% of each other from 137.5 to 147.5 psi with no outliers being way lower than the rest or anything. I ran the compression test a few months back near when I set...

I cleaned up every ground I could see inside the engine bay. Any others outside of the engine bay I haven't looked at. No melted or broken wires, but some have frayed shielding and some wires near a few connectors have the casing slightly stripped back. The catalytic converter blew itself out...