Starter Bolt Hole in Trans Stripped! Any Ideas?

[Josh B]

Any ideas what to do with that? Just putting the truck back together after installing a "rebuilt" transmission. Put the bottom bolt in and tightened it up, then got up top and started the top bolt in, got a few threads in and put a 1/4" ratchet W/ 1/2" socket in there and started turning it, it took a bit to get it to even feel like it was tightening up, "here we go" I thought, but it just kept turning :/
It'll turn easy a bit, then start to try to grip, then it's easy again

This wasn't the only one. One of the bolts holding the trans crossmember mount to the bottom didn't look good, so I ran a tap through it, but the threads were just gone. Luckily I had a bolt just like it I'd picked up out at pickers with a nut on it, fit just fine, I pushed the bolt up in it, put some locktight on the nut and tightened it up. This starter bolt doesn't go all the way through tho

 

[Dirtman]

I assume you know what a helicoil is. They suck for blind holes, but there are different threaded inserts that work well for what your doing. Provided you can get a tap to it. I repair cylinder heads with these all the time. Should work great for your situation as well.

 

[4x4junkie]

Something like this should work:

OEMTOOLS M10 - 1.5 Fix-A-Thread Repair System

Shop for OEMTOOLS M10 - 1.5 Fix-A-Thread Repair System with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.

www.autozone.com

I believe the starter bolt size is M10-1.5, but double check it to make sure.

Edit:
too slow

 

[Josh B]

Wow, thanks yall. I was incorrect about the hole, it did go through. I checked my old tranny after posting this and found it did.
Luckily I had a bolt picked up at pickers with a lock nut on it and just the right length

 

[Josh B]

I did something with a helicoil when I first got this 12 years ago, can't remember what it was but I still have the handle and the extra coils that came with it

I like yours too 4x4junkie, never noticed those kind before

 

[Dirtman]

No one likes my thread inserts...

 

[adsm08]

No one likes my thread inserts...

I do.

I need to repair some holes on a retaining block on the one tractor.

 

[Dirtman]

We do business with a head shop, not the magical kind.... they send us heads all the time with broken studs or stripped holes. We use to use helicoil, the ones I pictured are cheaper, faster and stronger. And no insert tool required. If you do helicoils enough the tool is 150 bucks.

 

[TruckJ]

So I have a problem exactly like this but totally different.I have a 1986 Ranger 6 cylinder 2.9l with an A4LD transmission.My problem is with the bottom starter bolt hole on the bell housing.The bottom half of that hole is completely missing.A friend gave me this truck saying I just had to get the starter lined up correctly....I am away from truck right now and came across this thread but will upload pictures once I get back to it.I have tried several methods using jb weld,jb weld steel stick and even an attempt at welding a bolt facing backwards(so I could slide starter on and use a nut to tighten) but everything I try,if it works,has only been a very temporary success before the bolt is ripped free from where I've tried securing it to the bell housing.If anyone can suggest any other ideas I would be really grateful.Im starting to kind of think that unless I replace the bell housing everything is going to be super temporary though and the only mechanic type experience I have I've gotten working on this truck,so really not a lot and the thought of replacing something like the bell housing seems slightly complicated and intimidating but I don't really have the option of a mechanic...can't afford one.So thank you for reading this and for any suggestions you may have

 

[scotts90ranger]

If part of the hole is missing, the only two options are welding metal on (no epoxy will do) or replacing the bellhousing. since that part has the threads in it there is no other option, there is a tremendous force on the starter in that direction...

 

[RobbieD]

Please post some pictures of what you're dealing with.

And, welcome to TRS.

 

[TruckJ]

So does it matter the type of welder you use?I tried with my friends lincoln electric I think MIG welder,the kind where you pull a trigger and wire feeds through and makes lots of sparks?If that should work then I'm betting I need to improve my welding skills,but that seemed to fail quicker than any of the jb weld options,and thank you for the answer

 

[TruckJ]

Please post some pictures of what you're dealing with.

And, welcome to TRS.

Thank you and I'm currently walking back across town to take some pictures...I didn't think I'd find anything like this place...I'm also reading everything I can about the A4LD transmission while I walk.so much great info

 

[RobbieD]

Good; get some pics, and it'd be better make new post on your problem.

There's some smart people on here who can likely help you. I'm just the door-greeter.

 

[scotts90ranger]

So does it matter the type of welder you use?I tried with my friends lincoln electric I think MIG welder,the kind where you pull a trigger and wire feeds through and makes lots of sparks?If that should work then I'm betting I need to improve my welding skills,but that seemed to fail quicker than any of the jb weld options,and thank you for the answer

Yes it does matter. First the welder has to be able to weld aluminum (can be done with MIG, but needs aluminum wire, and usually a "spool gun" and appropriate shield gas) which isn't the most common thing and from what I hear is difficult for this type of repair. Second from what I hear the aluminum in Ford castings isn't the easiest to weld in the first place from whatever alloy they use.

Even after welding the hole will need to be drilled and tapped to hold threads or at least be a through hole for a nut on the back which probably isn't the easiest in the vehicle.

Not trying to be a negative nancy, just saying it isn't going to be easy...