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To finish my previous post, I had all I could stand for the day, so called it. It'll probably be next weekend before I put it back together. Though I don't expect any difference, I did re-adjust the valves on #4 since there was some slop. That wouldn't have any effect on the leak down test though.

Typo #6. Heads might fix it, but if I'm going that far, I'm going to check the rest of it too. Do you think these numbers could cause the missing problem? I'm not 100% convinced. Yeah I poked around in the 4.0 swap section a little. Not really interested in changing the dash or doing a lot...

It was hard to tell for sure, I believe most of it was going out the exhaust. A little Marvel Mystery in #4 did bring it up to about 50%. Didn't bother on #6.

Did a cylinder leak down test today. #4 is only at 40% and #6 was at 70%. The others were all 90+. Wouldn't have expected that after the compression test was reasonable, but those were the two lowest cylinders on that test too. How much trouble is swapping in a 4.0? If I'm going to rebuild a...

Maybe a little lifter chatter after it's sat a few days, but nothing major. Here's a video of what is doing. At this point, I'm thinking broken valve spring or partially wiped cam lobe.

I've blocked the EGR. No change. I've Replaced the EGR. No change. I've replaced the MAP (pretty sure the one I replaced was new). No change. There is vacuum to the MAP at idle.

The "new" TPS was out of range, but the old FoMoCo one checked fine and is back in place. I did discover a broken gasket on the idle air motor which was causing a slight vacuum leak, but fixing that didn't change the miss. I'm running out of ideas.

Oh, I know anything is possible at this point, but it does have new gaskets on the plenum of upper intake. I haven't had the TB off or the lower intake off, but I'm fairly certain they're good. Something to check though.

Yes, as best as I can, but it's hard to believe an intake leak wouldn't show its face until 3000 RPM. I'm not ruling anything out at this point though.

I haven't probed the TFI signal. Not even sure I'd know how. I have replaced the MAP sensor, but checking the vacuum to it sounds like a good idea.

OK, pulled all of the plugs and re-gapped to 0.043". They were all about 0.060" and all look fairly new and clean. Ran a compression check on all cylinders while the plugs were out. The numbers ranged from 140 to 160 psi. Put my new plug wires on just for sh!ts and giggles. The ones on it were...

Sold it to a cousin. Took a loss, but with the B2 to occupy my time now, I wasn't sure if I'd ever get back to it. Plus the wife wanted a new yard ornament.

Yep, all truth. As well as Ford requiring the performance be pushed past what IH/Navistar had originally designed them for.

Could the O2 sensor have any effect on this?

I wouldn't say nobody wants them. Unless you are referring to me specifically. I am a nobody and I kinda like them. You do have to fix a couple of things that IH/Ford should have done to start with though. My old one is still going (sold to a friend) and has over 300k on it. I did stud it...

Said goodbye...

I'll give that a shot, but it'll have to wait a day or two. Just a FYI though, this is the second ECM, with no change. Both Autozone parts. However, I don't know if either one was the correct ECM since I never saw the original. Not sure how many strategies or whatever there may have been back then.

Anything is possible I guess, but they're brand new injectors and replacing them made no difference from the originals. Which I learned after the fact had already been cleaned.

Got the TPS installed. No difference. I'm lost on this one. Any help is appreciated. Edit: One other thing of note. If you floor it in the shop, it goes right past the miss RPM. I haven't tried to see if it will hold against the limiter, because I'm not sure it even has one and I don't really...

Yes, I much prefer OBDII systems. They fall right after carbureted engines with electronic ignitions as far as troubleshooting.