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Good point and thanks for the thoughts.

I was thinking the fast burn chambers and additional compression would be beneficial.

So, we ended up blowing off 3 belts during the last race. Long story, but we sheered the pully off the alternator. Not entirely sure how we did it. All the threads on the alternator shaft are stripped. We overheated it 4 times, but still ran the final 6 hours without issue. She has no guts...

Thanks. She does have an issue with hot starts already. I’m thinking that it’s due to heat soaking the starter. Installing a heat shield before the next race. I’m also wondering if a gear reduction starter is a good idea.

Another question for the experts here. What is a safe amount of timing advancement? Stock is 10 degrees. The engine has fallen behind to about 8 degrees. When we set it, what are the thoughts on advancing it to 12 or 14 degrees? Seems like 12 is definitely safe, is 14 pushing it too much...

Not a fan of that for endurance racing. Thanks for the info. I bought a 2.5-2.75 silicone reducing elbow to use as a short ram. The battery is relocated to the rear. I also built a Watts link for it.we were in a pretty big wreck last year and cut the front off of another ranger (that’s still...

Thanks for sharing that link. Very interesting system. we change our oil every race weekend (VR1 synthetic 50 weight). We hope the next time this engine is removed is for a 5.0 swap. In the event we keep and rebuild the 2.9, I will definitely be installing that evacuation system.

Thanks for your feedback. My goal is to vent those bad engine gases to the atmosphere. I want to eliminate blow-by from entering the intake. It sounds like you're saying that's not a good idea?

I own a 1990 MAF California 2.9 that I endurance track race. Truck is run HARD for 8 hours at a time. It's a budget program, so we look for ways to make small improvements cheaply. The engine has headers, straight pipes and an airbox delete. Unnecessary accessories have been deleted and...

Ah, now I feel dumb...Thanks for the quick reply. We're pulling the transmission this weekend, probably something I would have learned then.

I have a 1990 2.9L 2wd 5-speed that needs to be replaced. I found a good deal on a 3.0 transmission. Can I use the 2.9 Bell housing on the 3.0 tranny and drop it in? Thanks for the help.

https://www.autoweek.com/car-life/but-wait-theres-more/a34389249/24-hours-of-lemons-cybertruck-homage-nearly-indistinguishable-from-real-thing/

Thanks! watts link (Dodge Durango) and a f-350 master cylinder showed up today. Time to get started!

I track race a 1990 ranger. Any opinions you have on making it faster are appreciated. Where we’re at: Longbed stock 2.9L & 5-speed. (Amazing we can still rev this 30 year old engine over 5K for hours) 8.8 rear-end swap with bracket flip Cut front springs. PS deleted 15x8 alloy slot mags on...

I just did my oil analysis. It’s a 1990 2.9L I track race. Looks like that 302 swap may be needed sooner than later.

I should say rotor/hub.

The 1990 F150 shares one of the same bearings as the 1990 ranger. The question is, is the other bearing different because of the rotor or spindle, or both? If it's due to the rotor, I may be very lucky. if it's due to the spindle, this option won't work. I need to research those other...

whatever rotor platform I end up with I will buy a hub for the machinist to blueprint and copy. I started looking through bearings, but rock auto doesn't get specific enough on the bearings. I will look up the bearings for those models and see if I can save some machining time. I kinda backed...

I would think the machinist can create the correct bevel with his lathe. TBD

Thank you, The more I think I know the more I realize what I don’t know. I’ve got some reading to do. I will work with the machinist on that. Do you recommend hub centric rings?