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Sounds good! Thank you. And that's the answer I was hoping to hear.

Thank you! This makes a lot of sense. I checked out a few videos and realized when I replaced the pinion seal, I just put on the pinion nut and never torqued it. When I dig into it, I'll pull the pinion nut and torque correctly. A video I watched said they are only to be used one time. How...

That's a great idea. I haven't done that but will try it and see if there is a difference in sound. This makes sense and is kinda what I was thinking but not hoping for. It's an open diff. When I capture the fluid, what types of things should I be looking for? Am I just checking to see if it...

In the last 60 ish days I've noticed a howling sound coming from the rear of the truck. It's getting worse. How much time do I have left before it becomes a catastrophic failure? And how bad can that be if that happens? Background (context): Around July (2023) I noticed some fluid on my...

Alright, so as I continue preparing for this task, and looking back through the thread, this is a list of what everyone has recommended. Also I should look for LUK unless there is a good deal on Motorcraft brand, right? Fly wheel - if it can be resurfaced otherwise get a new one Slave cylinder...

The things that make you go 'hmmm' 🤔

So THAT's why the 'name brand' for car parts was always more expensive! That makes a lot of sense. Who knew? 🤷‍♂️ I'll look for LUK unless there is a motorcraft deal happening.

That makes sense to me. And based on this thread it seems my pilot bearing is (has been) going out so I'm definitely replacing it and while in there will be replacing all associated parts / components.

That makes sense! As I've not done this before, why do people recommend to get a new master & slave cylinder? Do they wear out or leak over time?

Thanks for the recommendation. I'm guessing not getting them pre-bled can be a giant pain to bleed myself?

Good info! If LUK is used by Ford, as OEM, does that mean I can order Motorcraft? Or would it be better to order with brand name LUK?

Thank you! Would that be just for the adjusting pressure plate? Or for the entire clutch and associated components (I.E. slave cylinder, fly wheel, etc.) as well?

Thanks for the info!! I looked at the pictures and see what you're talking about. Is there a better brand of clutch to get for a self adjusting pressure plate?

I know so little about clutches it's not even funny. So this info is AMAZING! I've been wondering 'why' this has been happening. And now I know.

This is legit! Thank you for the resources and info!!

One other thing as I consider clutch replacement, is there a thread that clutches are discussed? Or a resource that compares them? I searched and couldn't find one. I don't off road my truck, it's my daily but from time to time, I pull a trailer (total load 5,000-6,000 lbs. - I think doing this...

Thanks for confirming and for the insight on replacing the clutch (including the components to get). I've been told there are a few different items to replace when you're doing a clutch - thanks for providing those and confirming what I've been told. I'll be sure to either replace or resurface...

Looking through the forum I think I have correctly identified the correct transmission for my truck. I have a 2002 Mazda B4000 with a 5 speed. From my checking it seems I have a Mazda M50D-R1HD, is this correct? Is there a difference between the manual transmission on the Mazda vs. the Ranger...

I'm currently sourcing parts for a 4 in suspension lift and need just the knuckles. No one seems to see just the knuckles for less then $250. 🤷‍♂️ Anyone have a set laying around or can point me to someone who might? Thanks in advance.

And I appreciate you letting me know and not making the assumption. If I was gonna off road the truck or needed clearance, this would be essential information. Thanks again for the help!