Search results

So I'm thinking I'm going to have to investigate some compression issues, going to try and run some tests this week. I'm going to get it out to the new house and see if I can't borrow an engine lift somehow if necessary. In the meantime, I have an old rav4 I can drive around. Might be awhile...

Replaced plugs, wires, coil, O2 sensor. Still nothing. Nothing. I'm about to put a stick of c4 in this engine and destroy everything.

I think it is running rich because my fuel economy sucks.. I think somewhere around 10-12mpg. Per Roert42, I'm going to take a look at the ECU today.

The computer is under passenger dash, correct? Willing to give it a look

It's crossed my mind, I replaced it about a year ago. I'll take it out and give it a look. Might be shot by this point since the cat was running so hot.

I just did a bunch of "research" into it. Red hot is indicative of excessive fuel getting into the cat, accompanied with low power, unresponsiveness, etc.. multiple routes to causes from there: low compression/damaged valves (I have refurb headers, new valve springs/stems, new pistons and rings...

So had some time tonight to work on it. Reseated and quadruple checked seating, checked plug gaps. Also, found and OLD, before-my-time o ring in the fuel rail.. wtf. Still nothing. Went for a 10 minute test drive, no improvement. Got home and did a full check of the engine and drivetrain. No gas...

So funny enough, when I received the truck, there was this mess of 5 14 gauge grounding wires (4 black with green stripe plus 1 black grounded to battery) all mixed and twisted together with electrical tape. And I know through experience that if they disconnect, the truck stalls. I increased...

Ok so I'll hook some jumper wires direct to the battery, per JerryC, and see if that resolves the issue. Can that direct connection remain? Or replace old wiring instead?

Also.. fun, frustrating update. I'm in the process of moving 40 mi north of current location. Yesterday was the inaugural trip in the B2. Flooring it the whole way, could barely make 55-60mph on straight aways. A couple times as I would shift to neutral to coast, the engine would stall out. Was...

I'll give this a try today. Any chance you know correct voltage reading?

I replaced ALL lines yesterday with new 5/16" nylon while digging in there. Filter was replaced with new motorcraft too. No leaks and everything is appropriately tight.

So I think the depressurized system was a fluke or one off.. I replaced ALL the lines with nylon 5/16" yesterday. Before doing that, I bled the system again, and lo and behold there was pressure. I replaced the pump with another brand pump I had, same with the regulator, and there was no change...

I'm out and about for the evening. I'll give that all a test tomorrow, gaps should be accurate but I'll double check. But yes, everything is fresh, new cam too. Basically the block, wiring, and belt components are original. Most everything else has been replaced. This was given to me for...

Do you have some new, cool ones I haven't heard yet? 😄

1. Yes, but only 1-2psi 2. 10btdc is base, but I'm in Colorado so I have it set at 12 degrees 3. Yes 4. Exhaust is all new.. manifolds, cats, muffler

Well. It's not the regulator, I replaced with a gp Sorenson brand and made no difference.. It's not either of the two pumps. The in tank was replaced two days ago, interchanged high pressure with an older, working pump, with no change. Tried blowing into the return line, and got full resistance...

I'll dig into it today and report back. Thanks!

It does not, but didn't specifically check.. I just noticed yesterday, when I first attached the fuel pressure gauge (has a bleeder hose) to purge pressure so I could replace the pump, there was no pressure to purge.

No problem! Regulator is new as well. Made checks on it to make sure it was working properly. No leaks, no issues.