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Damn I feel stupid, yep that fixed it. Thanks!

I just replacement my rag joints. The old rag joints were cracked and had a ton of play before they would start turning the wheels . I bought the Doorman universal rag joints and built them per the write up in the tech library, see link below...

Thanks you guys. Yes, the sensor is on the passenger side of the intake manifold

Another quick follow up. I just did my 2nd fill up after changing the air charge sensor, thermostat, etc and I went from mid high 12/low13mpg to 15mpg now. The air charge sensor was extremely beat up, not sure if that was the culprit. Curious, at what temperature reading should I start to worry?

I'm contemplating keeping it but I love the non clutter look of stock, the aftermarket tach I have drives me crazy because its so big My fuel gauge is a bit wonky. When I fill up it reads significantly past the F marker. Goes down fine as I use gas but is is still annoying. Every ford vehicle...

Here's my follow up. I changed the temp sender, put in a new motorcraft 192 degree thermostat, did an oil change and changed the air charge sensor. The needle still sat at the top of the normal line but sometimes a bit below. I bought a bosch mechanical gauge. I just drove 20 miles on streets...

will do

Awesome write up. Easy to follow. Per your test, my sending unit is prob bad. Unplugged and the gauge stayed at C, grounded and it went to H. I'll grab a new one and report back

It idled in the driveway this morning for about 10-15 mins and the needle got to the top line of normal. If I drive for long distances the needle never goes above the top line of normal. I like the idea of picking up an aftermarket gauge, they are pretty cheap I took some temp readings today...

For a while now my coolant temperature reads at the very top of the Normal line when warmed up (see pic). I changed the temp sender unit out and it reads the same. Is this ok? I own a temperature gun, where could I take a temp on the engine to see if it's in a ok range? What is an ok range? Thanks

Thanks those are good ideas. I found a couple of diesel places around me, Ill give them a call and see if they handle gas injectors or if they can recommend anyone. I had to weed through many google pages for links to places/dealers that perform "fuel injection services"

I need to replace my fuel injectors. In the 10 years Ive owned the truck they haven't been changed and my mechanic who owned it before me had never changed them. I have never dealt with them before and I am unfamiliar with brands. I did read that stock was about 15lbs injectors. At auto stores...

Ruby, thanks fir the reply. i did try that and it didnt make a difference. I did find the problem though. It had something to do with the aftermarket wiring harness that was provided to me that mates between the factory harness and the new radio harness. I ended up getting rid of the aftermarket...

Here are some pics. The only thing I would change, and this is just personal preference, is that the shaft was round and black to match the stock look. Install was super easy, remove the boot, remove four bolts that hold the old shifter and bolt the new shifter back in its place

I'm hoping a car audio guru can help since I'm failing at researching my problem online. Installed a new Pioneer MVH-S222BT stereo and 4 new Rockford Fosgate speakers. The radio sound is great, the sound from all streaming services (youtube, pandora, spotify, etc) is great, but when I make...

I just wanted to give everyone a heads up. I purchased the aftermarket shifter from core-shifters.com for my Ranger with the FM145 transmission after a failed repair of the stock shifter. It is a beautiful upgrade. The shifter is real tight, a lot less work then the original. It barely moves...

Just a follow up, IT FAILED. The 3/8 hole I drilled through the shaft didnt leave enough "meat" of the actual shaft and after a few weeks of shifting the shift shaft snapped on me. Luckly I was in 2nd gear so I was able to limp home. I just going to spend the money on the CORE aftermarket...

If they last half as long at the original bushing did I'll be happy. When I get some free time Ill rewrite it using the template you gave me...where is the correct area to post it in

In all my searching I didnt come across anyone that had a fix for this so hopefull this works for everyone. It was pretty easy and in total it cost me about $6 and 2 hours. First thing is to remove the shift boots. then the 4 screws that hold the housing to the the transmission. There are two...