Search results

I love my rear Aussie, but that's in a 4 pinion 9" carrier. It's the junk d44 carrier I'd be worried about. And if you asked about Aussie vs tracklok and not a aussie vs powr-lok you got the wrong answers anyway. Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

Yes, but don't touch the side shims till the pinion depth is set. Pulling the pinion back will move the pattern out and increase backlash. Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

I'd start with pulling .005, if nothing else it'll give an idea of how much more it needs to go. You did set it up with only the oil slinger behind the inner pinion bearing, and the shims under the inner race in the housing, right? The opposite way is the old-school way, way more of a PITA...

Why in the world would you do that!!!??? No no no, put it back. Those carriers are weak, and when they go, all the money you put in that axle is trashed. The Powr-Lok is stronger case wise, and it's guts are stronger and more reliable than the Aussie. Btw it's not just a clutch type LSD...

Yup... Pinion needs pulled back. ...mmmm Powr-Lok. Can't wait to rebuild mine and get it in. Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

You haven't read enough yet. Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

I'd scrap that idea for reasons of expenses and parts availability. If this is all brought up because you already have the axles, sell them, buy 1 ton American built running gear. Dana, Sterling, AAM. The parts are way cheaper, easier, and faster to get. Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

No worries. He hasn't let up in the 4 months since this thread died. On the plus side, he's actually been wheelin with it! Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

My 99 5.0 Ex has serious front axle issues, and needs replaced. Will any 97-01 axle work, more specifically from a 98 4.0. My awd case is locked up, but ruined my front diff before I pulled the driveshaft. I'm acquiring the parts for a manual t-case swap this weekend, and my brother has a 98...

Even better. Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

Ask $250, stand on $250, then if he absolutely won't budge, go no more than $300. At least that's what I'd do... Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

Well yeah. But a 5-6" drop in the rear and a 2" up front will look kinda silly. It's best if you get a set of drop beams, they are just over $300, and have 3" of drop built into them with completely stock suspension geometry. The 2" coils can then be added with the help of eccentric sleeves for...

My truck has blown 2 master cylinders, since my axle swaps. 78 disc outers on my EB 44, and 78 big drums on my narrowed 9". I have had the same failure both times, the seals on the piston for the front brakes goes bad, leaving me with a mushy pedal and no front brakes. The first master was...

Probably less work to cut a rear 60, and weld on the Cs. At that point I would start looking at Reid Cs and knuckles. 2 PS inner shafts could be cut and resplined, if custom chromoly axles aren't in the budget. Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

I recently posted pics of my broken valve stem on my FB wall, which started a conversation with various options. What valve stems do you all use? Ohhh and cause I mentioned pics, I know how you guys are... Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

I couldn't find any builds through searching. Anybody have any insight, I know I've seen it, but never had an interest till now. I want to put a 60's pickup grill in my 88. Maybe we can collaborate something for a sticky or tech article. Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

I'm looking to build the narrowest go-cart drivetrain possible. Just thought maybe someone here would have some insight. I'm mostly just curious if a torque converter (aka: torq-a-verter) can be mounted solely on jackshafts directly behind the engine. Here's what I'm working with... The plan...

Just got a set of aftermarket clear lenses for my Sploder. In the past I've had issues with water in the lenses, as well as having friends with the same issues. Is there anything I can do ahead of time, before initial install, that will prevent this from happening down the road? I'm assuming...

The oem yoke on my 78 Bronco 9", fit the oem u-joint on my 94 shaft. Dunno if that helps, but that's all I got... Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk 2

Crazy Idea for my "street" SAS... (99 Ex, deep lipped 22"s, 37-40" tires, DD big gay truck style, considerably tall and ridiculously wide) Well the springs are already in my Explorer. I will be using Superduty axles, the factory rack and pinion, and modified oem lower control arms. Axle will be...