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Also I know I said I put a new MAP sensor on it but if I pull the vacuum line to it and plug it instantly idles down

I did that for both the tps and the map sensor and it didn’t idle down any and from what I can tell there is no corrossion

That makes sense. Any idea of why when I plugged it yesterday and waited and plugged it back it started working fine??

I don’t have a picture of my ranger because I’m not home at the moment but if you can tell anything about this, this is what I unplugged and I’ll get a better picture later if I need to

I recently replace the MAP sensor and hose and it runs good with correct engine idle till it gets up to operating temp and then it shoots up to 3000-3500 rpm’s. However yesterday I let it run and unplugged the egr valve (I think is what it’s called) that goes into like the throttle body and it...

I’m not saying it’s impossible I just can’t hear anything bc the engine is idling so loud

I the throttle is opening and closing fine but I put cardboard over it and it didn’t stall and engine idle didn’t go down at all so I couldn’t hear any vacuum leaks. Any other suggestions?

Update: I went a got a new vacuum line and put it on and it’s not idling as high. It was idling at about 3500 rpms now it’s more like 2200-2500 rpms. Is it possible it’s the vacuum hose for the breather on the opposite valve cover? Those are the only two things I’ve touched since it started doing it

Also, where can I get a new vacuum line for the pcv valve? I can’t find it online at any parts store

Do you know of any other lines that are near the pcv valve and breather on the opposite of pcv valve? Those are the only ones I messed with and lines seem fine

I recently changed the PCV valve and grommet and now it is idling very high. I didn’t change the breather yet because it has not come in yet but I did change the grommet. I did not change the lines. I read that the PCV valve could be stuck open. However I put my old one back in it and it is...

I have 1989 Ford Ranger 2.9l 4x4 5 speed. I was wondering how difficult it would be to swap to a 4.0l motor with the trans code D

The gear doesn’t look bad but I feel like the nose bushing (I’m hoping I called it the right thing) seems like it may be shot. Could that cause a problem with it?

Any idea how hard it is to replace the starter gear?

I have also seen on message boards from years ago that swapping the starter gear to a 90 escort starter gear has fixed some people’s problems. Anyone have any experience with that?

I shimmed the starter and it will start now cause it had gotten to where it wouldn’t start but it still grinds.

Is there anything you can do to fix this without replacing the plate?

My 1989 ford ranger is starting to make a grinding noise when cooler outside but it turns right over. Having several problems out with starter grinding in last several months and this is the 2 starter in 5 months and 5th starter in 4 years and it’s getting old don’t know what else to do. Have...

Yes I do and it looks like it’s not worn or anything like that in my opinion.

So just new factory springs with no lift would level it out?