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@Uncle Gump Yeah both posts are from me but I thought that it might be a good idea, for those who may need any of the info later, to make a new separate thread for this separate issue but then both began to get new responses.

I appreciate the info, the lines that I’m having problems with aren’t for the egr. To be honest I don’t really know what they’re for but they’re on the same side and area as the air intake/filter.

@SenorNoob If your talking about the diagram next to the hood latch then it is still there, however I don’t really know how to read those diagrams and I don’t know if it would help much with a few of them. Specifically one that has a T joint has it go in a total of 3 directions.

So I realized that an old 01 town car that I have has egr bolts that are almost identical to the ones in my b2, the only difference is that the ones from the town car are slightly shorter in length but I'm guessing that it should be fine. Since the town car is already sort of trashed and...

The EGR (which I am still replacing cause it sat for about 20 years) and its line and pipe are fine and I know how to install them, the problem I'm having with the EGR is that one of my bolts for it had snapped off when removing it to get the intake off. I got the broken bolt out by welding a...

A few weeks back I decided to replace the injectors in my bronco and, to make it a bit easier, I removed the intake to get better access to the fuel rail. When I went to unbolt the egr valve from the intake one of the bolts snapped and I can't seem to find a replacement. After putting everything...

So I never got to checking the wiring, but the other day I installed new fuel injectors and afterwards the pump in the tank started working again and the truck fired right up. I really don't know why it started working again randomly but I've yet to check the frame mounted pump to see if it...

I have yet to check all of the wiring, however I do know that the inertia switch has power in and out and that what I believe to be c161 has power going in, I have yet to check going out of 161 or anything past it again. I do plan on doing at least a half teardown of the engine to check the...

Neither pump will run, the fuel pump relay does click and complete the connection and the inertia switch reads 12v when I touch the multimeter leads to the wires.

I had the test connector jumped and when checking for power at either pump I only had 0.01v and neither would run or prime when the key was turned or the test connector jumped, I only checked for the high pressure earlier to make sure.

@RobbieD For the chassis ground do I just need to clip it to any part of the chassis (like right at the bottom of the rear frame where the metal folds under) or is there a specific part that I need to ground it to? Also what do you mean by the tank pump leg? Also how would I determine where the...

@gaz I have indeed checked the fuel rail and not only is there no pressure but there is not any more than about 0.01v at either pumps power connectors with KOEO and I have the ecm test jumped to constant run the pumps every time I test.

My meter does have a continuity option but for some reason for both ohms and continuity it shows just the number 1 on the far left when not connected to a circuit, probably cause its a cheap meter. I assume the two pins will work for checking between sections of wire. What numbers should the...

Good to know and thank you for offering your help. Would the previously stated method of piercing the wire in two places and measuring for voltage work to check for breaks/12v or would it display no current between the two pins?

Thank you for the suggestion, I have not checked the wire that runs back into the dash but I figured it's probably good since when I measured voltage between the two I had around 12v, never less than 11.8v. Also, yes I ground the relay to be permanently open through the test connector each time...

Thank you for the response, when I go to check the wiring again and de-pin the connector would it be viable to pierce the wire with pins at two points and check for any power at parts of the wire by measuring from between the pins or will it not be accurate or work at all (measuring in vdc...

Thank you for the suggestion, however the relay installed for my fuel pump is brand new and is a known good relay same goes for my inertia switch which I replaced after the original failed and the same also goes for the ecm installed in the truck.

The connectors look fine and the wire insulation looks perfect except some slight discoloration from time, there's only one wire in the entire truck that I know is broken which is the wire for the oil pressure switch (the wire is in half but I'm gonna replace it soon) every other wire seems to...

I also forgot to add that I went back and checked the low pressure pumps connector again specifically to check if it would read voltage if I connected to the positive of the gauge unit and the negative of the pump and the other way around (the pumps positive and the gauges negative). When I...

I just got in from trying to check the connectors and the wiring. I believe I found the correct connectors and when I checked their voltage each one had 12v where it should. However, I also pulled out the power connector for the high pressure pump and checked both ends of it to find that it had...