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Ditto, `98-`01 is a 2.5L, but the same Lima basics. That '99-'07 is an improperly attributed Duratec Engine, not compatible. I'd look for a company that can figure that out...

If it did it until it wouldn't start, check the crank sensor, mine was dingged up on the face. 176,000 miles.

2.5L uses 1/2 of a thrust bearing on the block side, and it appears to be a common failure; mine had .119" of endplay - only .107" out of spec. But, the 2.5L has up to 3x the endplay of a 2.3L. Mine was a ballooned torque converter.

FIX the exhaust leak first. And exhaust leak can allow air IN to be misread by the O2 sensors. THEN you can look at the pinging issue...

If the MAF has failed, it reverts back to a Failed MAF table - it should throw a code and run like normal - but no "Learning". I'd look at the voltage from the Throttle Position Sensor and make sure it is working and not "dropping out" during its sweep.

Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Regulator Regulator is cheaper/easier, but not likely the problem. How many miles? When (if ever) was the pump replace (and with what)?

That being said - Look at the lower (and upper) intakes - on some swaps, the intake(s) need to be changed, and that makes other things complicated. If you have a distributor, and late 2.3/2.5 head lower intake will not fit with the distributor/brackets/accessories of the early engine. The HEADS...

I want mine to go "VROOM!" Not "VrO_m!"...

Looking for images of the "DISA" mark, passenger side cyl #2. Mine is 3 DISA, I have also seen 4 DISA... Looking to get an idea of how many castings Ford was using.. Thx

Let see if I have an extra...

4R44e on the 2.5L SOHC 5R44E on the 3.0L OHV 5R55E on the 4.0L SOHC 5R55E (with 6 pinion planetary gears) on 4.0L SOHC 4x4 But yes. The key phrase is; You want to buy a "Core" A used transmission requires a core exchange and may be returned. A "Core" is just that, and is no return, no warranty.

Metric vs. Standard... Also, what are you measuring WITH, and where are you measuring? If you are using a standard Dial Micrometer, it is difficult to get a good reading on a used block due to the ring ridge.

4R44/4R55/5R44 are all downgrades. BEST would be a performance built 4x4 A4LD - for reasons. A 4x4 5R55E would be a good second choice, assuming you don't mind losing a gear (if you stay with the '94 PCM) or changing to an OBDII PCM. I have been able to use a 4R44E as a 5R44E - but it required...

My 2005 Sport Trac had two sensor holes, one was not used. Got the Mustang single sensor unit. Works great!

Crack in the cat/flange leak causes air to get sucked in, between pulses, and causes the O2 sensor to get bad readings - it can cause lots of problems. I would change the O2, if it has been more than 75K since you did it last. Prefer Motorcraft - if you can find them.

https://www.moddedmustangs.com/threads/ranger-header.483402/ But my info was from Boport when building my cylinder head, and getting the intakes flowed...

Yeah - gotta watch those, there are 6mm and 8mm - for whatever reason.

The 2 bolts to the catalytic converter can be a PITA - I'm 2 for 2... MAP Torch and candle wax works great. Give it time to cool while to remove the 8 bolts, O2 sensor and EGR. I got lucky, someone had already cut the cat off and left the stub so I could work on it at home.

The "Factory Header" looks good, but it is garbage for a number of reasons. The '98-'01 performs better and flows better. Verified on a flow bench by Boport. The 4 tubes converge at the same spot, so only 2 cylinders are "seen" by the O2 sensor, potentially masking fueling problems.

There were more... But you want the '98-'01 manifold from a pull-it-youself yard. I got one for $30 Watch out online, I've seen them as high as $250 :(