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Pretty sure that's what I did last time (but I may be remembering doing this job on my parent's Chevy Astro)... although if the pre-installed race installed came from a quality supplier, likely there wouldn't be an issue with new bearings as they're made to the same spec and I doubt the...

I seem to have developed some wheel bearing noise at 45-60mph. It's gotten worse over time... it started acting up on a 2500 mile trek to Colorado back in July; the most recent drive with it, it was pretty loud. When it was aligned last fall, I was told the front bearings were a hair loose, and...

I'm not running the stock oil pressure switch setup... I'm running this instead: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/variable-oil-pressure-gauge-modifiction.165083/post-1586688 --- Haven't touched it in the last week... been slammed at work. Will replace the IAC if 3rd...

Mine came from O'Reilly. Worked fine and fixed my issue back then (it'd idle at 450RPM and stall).

Last time I cleaned the IAC I ruined it and a used replacement (and it threw me for a two week loop of misdiagnosis). The valve was replaced around 4-5 years ago, not long after I bought it. Other than don't touch the plunger, any suggestions on how to clean it without breaking things? Also, it...

The idle in question was (per torque pro) around 550RPM. Maybe that's the "issue", combined with possibly a bad low range on my sending unit? It never hit the "L" mark... got close (ish) before dropping off entirely. The fact the check gauge light came on tells me the sensor went to (or acted...

Clarifications: 1. No CEL. That was a typo. Check Gauge light... the light that comes on if any of the gauges are in the red. 2. Per my records, the oil was changed this spring at 204081 miles. The first of the issues were seen around 205,200 miles (based on a fuel record from earlier in the...

While driving my Ranger on a 2500 round trip to Colorado and back, after a lot of driving (engine hot, but not overheating!) my oil pressure was dropping off at idle to the point of tripping the check gauge light (note- I have a modified gauge and sending unit per the tech article I wrote years...

Surprised to see people are still commenting on this... go figure. Swung by here to link it to a discussion on a different forum involving relocating oil pressure sensors with pipe fittings. Still own and drive the 1995 4.0... and the oil gauge still works great. The only "issue" I've had was...

Have a few updates: Had zero issues with it this year up until yesterday. Including some pretty hot days, a trip to Branson, MO, and a trip to Tulsa, OK. Not even close to overheating! Had a controller (or sensor/wiring) failure yesterday. My ranger has been sitting for the most part since...

I've also run 215/65R215's on mine (Continental Control Contact Tour A/S, to be exact)... Speedo was still accurate (GPS confirmed). Hence why I suggested 15's. Went back to 215/70R15 Cooper Cobra's for a combination of cost and aesthetic (white lettering) reasons. Didn't get the advertised...

I have 15" explorer wheels (and hubcaps) on my '95. Drop in fit. They came of a 1993 but they're a design I more commonly associate with later model Explorers and rangers. Looks completely stock to the layperson. I also have some old ranger wheels (riveted aluminum) sitting on my deck... 3...

At least on ebay, All I'm finding are weld-on C-channel pieces for the spring mount area. I had the spring mounts (all 4), shackles, and bushings replaced when I first bought it (they were in BAD shape, as one would expect)... not the area in question. I'll do more looking later... maybe LMC or...

Got the bump stop off... Of all things, my "favorite" 12" Hart wrench was able to get a grip on the base metal and allow for removal and re-installation. For a Walmart tool, that wrench seems to save my butt a lot (originally bought to remove a fan clutch from a 1984 F150, which worked great!)...

While working on removing the LH axle bump stop (to remove the brake hose bracket, which I need to free a stuck old hose from), I think I found penatrating rust in my frame by the shock mount: The mount itself has the same issue... full of rust flakes and dirt (why it rusted so bad?): The...

Is the light immediate, or only after driving? If immediate, you probably split a wire in the sensor harness... Need to splice it or replace the sensor. Beware that the cables are high flex and getting a splice to hold up in such is tricky. I crimped a pair of Molex connectors in the middle of...

I've only had the caliper bracket bolts come loose on me once... and that was due to bozo here not tightening them down enough, also without loctite. Since they're not a distorted thread or torque to yield, I don't see the harm in reusing them as long as they're not trashed and adequately...

In the 1995 4.0 Ranger, the 3.08 does fine. No real complaints. In the 1984 4.9 F150 (AOD trans), its 3.08 is honestly gutless. Highway driving (in anything but purely flat land) is almost impossible to use cruise control without the engine bogging or constant gear shifting (depending on how...

Looked underneath... it's a 3.08. Why I had "2.80" in my memory, I dunno.

When I changed the fluid awhile back, I bought an 8.8" gasket and the bolts matched up. Leaked terribly (ended up redoing it with The Right Stuff instead), but the bolts matched, confirming it is an 8.8. My 1995 3.0 I had before had a 7.5 in it... metal cover. So does the 8.8 in my 1984 F150.