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1986 Ranger won't start


tomw

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Have you squirted some carb cleaner or brake cleaner down the intake to see if it will fire on that?

I figure the compression gauge must be in need of repair. At least the pressures are somewhat close/even.

Disconnect the MAP sensor wires. Crank. If it fires and runs, the MAP is toasted.

Did you pull codes? If so, what were they? You can use a multimeter to read them. Or a test light, but I did not memorize the procedure. They will be flashes or needle bumps. You have to count them, and write down the digits.
tom
 


Mscates

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I tried starting fluid and it didn't even attempt to fire, the pressure gauge is brand new but somewhat of a cheap one off amazon. (Probably got what i paid for)
I think i fried my fuel pump relay when i was messing with some things because ny pump no longer comes on so i have to locate that now before i can continue.
I'll try disconnecting the map

I haven't done anything to pull codes but it's an idea. Not sure if codes would help anything at this point but I'll look into it
 

Shran

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If you can borrow another compression tester it might be worth rechecking those numbers but usually the cheapo testers are fine. As Rusty said those numbers are very low and would certainly explain why it doesn't fire.

I'd be real tempted to pull the belt and time the thing from scratch at this point... You could also remove the timing belt (requires removing the crank pulley, FYI) and doing a compression test without it. You'll have to either turn the cam as you test each cylinder to close the valves or pull the valve cover and make sure they're closed. It's a non interference engine so nothing will be hurt by doing this... but that way you can verify actual compression with the valves closed and rule it out.
 

Mscates

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Timing is my weak link, i don't know anything about it so I'm hesitant to do anything with it
 

Josh B

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I'd recommend rechecking your belt timing at least :)
 

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Great time to learn, and the perfect engine to learn on - you're not going to mess it up, it just won't run if something's off! I was right where you are a few years ago with that engine and have had the timing belt off the stupid thing a dozen times or more for various reasons.

Where in Wyoming are you?
 

Josh B

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Must be Cody :D
 

Mscates

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So i think everyone was spot on with the timing jumping. I pulled everything apart minus the crank pulley (no puller) but think i was able to feel the timing mark line on the retaining washer. I lined that up with the notch which made the cam timing mark almost 180 off what it should be. Do they have the ability to jump that much? I'll be putting it back together and hope i have things correct. I'll update when i find out.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Y
So i think everyone was spot on with the timing jumping. I pulled everything apart minus the crank pulley (no puller) but think i was able to feel the timing mark line on the retaining washer. I lined that up with the notch which made the cam timing mark almost 180 off what it should be. Do they have the ability to jump that much? I'll be putting it back together and hope i have things correct. I'll update when i find out.
Yes they can jump that much.

But you really need to get the crank pulley off and replace the belt and verify timing.
 

Mscates

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Yes they can jump that much.

But you really need to get the crank pulley off and replace the belt and verify timing.
Yeah... my hopes of being able to get lucky didn't work so tomorrow I'll pull it all back apart and order a new timing belt and what not.
I think i got it closer than it was because it attempted to fire but that's as lucky as I got.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Yeah... my hopes of being able to get lucky didn't work so tomorrow I'll pull it all back apart and order a new timing belt and what not.
I think i got it closer than it was because it attempted to fire but that's as lucky as I got.
Yes unfourtantly timings one of those things thats gotta be dead nuts on to work.
 

tomw

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toenails of foothills NW of Atlanta
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ford
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lima bean
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
vertical and above ground
Because of the ratio between cam and crank rotation, 2:1, the cam will be 180 off half of the time when the engine is at TDC.(#1)
Rotate the crank one more turn, and the cam would be in correct timing.
The keyway on the crankshaft should be at 12:00, and the notch on the crank pulley will point to TDC on the belt cover marks.
The cam sprocket triangle will be at about 4:00, and line up with a pointer or mark on the head casting. The aux sprocket can be timed or not depending on whether you have distributor or not. All the slack should be out of the belt on the 'right' side of path(drivers). Slack can be between the cam and crankshaft, going around the tensioner, which will take up all the slack when you release the hold-down bolt.
After you replace the belt, turn the crankshaft two complete turns. Check the timing marks. Two turns insures that you have turned the camshaft at least one complete turn. IF it is off, push back the tensioner using an extension and wrench, lock it down, and re-adjust the belt teeth as needed, moving the cam sprocket to time properly. Release the tension and rotate the crankshaft twice again.
tom
 

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