If its the fan(clutch) then temp goes up when stopped or driving slow, then goes down at faster speed
If temp climbs at faster speeds then either thermostat is not opening fully or radiator is getting clogged up
Simple test for this, start cold engine, feel upper radiator hose and heater hose, they should, of course, both be cold, lol
Let engine idle a bit and then feel them again, upper rad hose should still be cold, heater hose should be warming up
After 5 to 8 minutes the heater hose should be HOT(150degF), and upper rad hose cold or just starting to warm up, as thermostat opens
If upper Rad hose is warming like heater hose then thermostat is stuck open, usually 1/4-1/2 way so it can't open fully
If thermostat seems to be working then check radiator, after full warm up, i.e. when you get home from a drive, shut off engine
Unbolt the fan shroud and pull it back over the fan
Run your hand over radiator fins, should be warmer at the top and then get cooler towards the bottom, NOT cold
If you feel cooler spots/areas those are blocked passages
Whole area should have nice even heat that gets 15deg cooler at the bottom
So coolant goes into the top of the radiator at 190deg then comes out at the bottom at 175deg
You can pull radiator and do "flip test"
Stand radiator on its side, either side so tubes are going up and down, with rad cap on
Put hand over which ever is lower rad hose port and fill rad with water using the other port
Stop filling when full
Remove hand and radiator should drain very fast, now the flip test
Flip radiator upside down.............NO water should come out, rad should be empty, if water does come out it could only come from BLOCKED TUBES inside
You can try flushing, lay radiator on its back and fill it with warm water with CLR mixed in, let it sit for 15-20min then flush, repeat a few times, then do Flip Test again
The "letters" on the temp gauge are different in different years, so best to use 1/4, 1/3, 1/2, ect...............for needle points
Ford gauges usually have 210degF as 1/2, engine should run at about 190degF when fully warmed up, so just under 1/2
The 2.0l/2.3l has the temp sender at the rear drivers side of the engine so tends to show lower temp on the gauge just above 1/3 usually
Water pump impellers(fins) can be eaten away if coolant gets too old, from galvanic corrosion or electrolysis, this reduces the flow of coolant, very rare occurrence, but not unheard of