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1988 New fuel everything, dies at a certain temp


Rajendora

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1988
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Ford
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This thing is driving us insane. In the morning, it's cold. Start it up, it runs great. Park for a few hours, try to start it up and go, two blocks later, it just cuts off. Call a tow truck, take it to the shop, the b**tard starts right up and runs great. Hours later, start it up, drive, dies after two blocks. This is a recent thing, and now we just let it warm up for 10 minutes until the gage is between the L and A on normal (n at the top heat level) and it runs great. Take your foot off the gas any time before it hits that, and it dies and stays dead until it cools all the way down.
Mechanic has changed the tank pump 3 years ago. We fill up once a week, never let it get below 2-4 gallons if we can help it (I'm paranoid about being stuck with out gas after the 70s). It now has a new fuel relay thing, a new fuel pump in the front, and new filters. The mechanic sent the electrician out today when it would not start after heating up to almost the L and dying when I accidentally let my foot slip off the gas, he got there 30 mins later, and once again, the thing started right up and purred like a kitten. The electrician was stumped. My husband thinks it might need a tune up, or a new Ignition thing, the electrician thinks it might be in the column, but when it warms up to that certain temp it runs fine, and starts up again minutes later on quick errands and runs fine. It has a full radiator, and oil. Mechanic has tested everything and swears it's electrical, Electrician says until it actually dies the long death, he can't locate the problem.
My mechanic has taken to startling badly and screaming when he sees me at the gates, it's driving us all that nuts. Help?
 


Paulos

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1987 STX
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Ranger
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2.9 V6
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
The ignition module. One day, I was on my way to work in my '86 Ranger, and I stopped and got gas. When I tried to leave, the truck refused to start. I put in a new ignition module - problem solved. A few years later I would make the 50 minute drive to work in the morning (late spring/early summer). On the way home two days in a row the engine just quit at the same off-ramp a few miles from home. After being stopped for about 15-20 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong with it (I guess I forgot about the gas station incident), the engine had a chance to cool down somewhat. It would then start up and get me the rest of the way home. Now, I ALWAYS keep a spare module or two in the truck with the tool to remove them.
 

Rajendora

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1988
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This is what we keep telling the mechanic, he is in denial. The problem is hubby is one handed now and says it was a pain to do even with two hands. Our old 77 t-bird had a new one every year, same problem (died on a railroad track!). I will insist on it being changed. ^_^ Hubby says it's behind the distributer on the back end of the engine so it's not easy for anyone.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Manual
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My credo
Give 'yer balls a tug. Fight me.
When you get a TFI module MAKE SURE IT IS A MOTORCRAFT. A real one. The aftermarket ones are garbage.

Also. There is a page in the tech section about relocating your tfi module. I did. Haven't been disappointed.
 

rusty ol ranger

Im a Jeep guy now.
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1987
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177 CID
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2WD
My credo
A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
Go to autozone and get a "TFI module tool"...

Literally makes changing a TFI a 5 minute job and its a 5 dollar tool
 

Rajendora

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Problem solved! I got a motorcraft ignition or TFI module, mechanic put it in, voila, it's been running 'normally' (for an 88) all day. What a relief! He also pulled a batch of wires of the exhaust pipe and tied them up again, but you know what, if it was the wires on the pipe, why did the truck run okay after hitting a certain temp or steady rpm? Why did the truck run at all, if it was just the pipe heating up the wires. Ignition module. But I will never our mechanic to admit it! Thank you for all your help!
 

Paulos

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North Carolina
Vehicle Year
1987 STX
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Ranger
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
The wires are for the O2 sensor, neutral switch, and reverse switch (for backup lights). If he didn't actually repair any wiring (due to melted insulation and bare wires), it's unlikely that the wiring was causing any problems. It's nice to have those wires tied away from the exhaust, but it's pretty much a sure thing that it was the ignition module. Glad you got it fixed :).
 

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