1998 & Newer specific Ranger problems.....


tobyduck

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Intake manifold gaskets going bad, had to remake the gasket so it wouldn't go bad on the 4.0 due to the way it was made.
Cam shaft sensor on the 4.0.
No one seems to know what a flange gasket is in a part store lol, but those don't last for the lifetime of the truck either.
BLEND DOOR will break, and part store workers want to sell you the entire assembly. Idiots where I live...
My ABS system failed to work until I changed my brake shoes and bleed the system out.
Vacuum hubs.
Door handles will break off over time.
My dome lights blow out more than usual, probably my radio wiring though.
Instrument lights blow out over time, and one blew out right after I changed two of them. typical.
The oem speakers are not quality and need to be replaced after about ten years. common sense though.
Feedback in the radio due to the spark plug boots and wires. Grounding problems.
Cruise control buttons will deface and crumble up over time. $100 for a new pair where I live.
Engine gaskets seem to leak, like oil pan, valve cover, etc.
Random high idles due to air conditioner clutch.
Gear shift Indicator will move and be off a few mm or a whole gear
 


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bintopo

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99 XLT 3.0 with 190,000km on the body. Manual windows and door locks. 5 speed 2 wd. Started doing my own repair about four years ago.

Usual:
- Phantom Wipers - Took the switch apart and re-greased it with e-grease. Did nothing.
- Dome light - Never had a problem.
- Back door latches - Needed to slam them close with both arms. Finally gave in and installed new latches.
- Front door hinges - Loose and need to be replaced.
- Heather core leaked - Replaced it. Removed dash and seats and it all went back just like new.
- Back brakes sticking after rain - Replaced the shoes and drums. One drum had a notch in the lip.
- Blown engine - Gear on oil pump went at about 90,000km. My fault for not checking the oil. But I'm not sure how they would have found the bad gear?!?!?
- AC stopped working - Replaced the compressor and good for a year.
- AC stopped working - Replaced the condenser. Waiting...
- Squeaking s-belt - Replaced idler pulley, tension pulley, alternator, fan clutch, water pump, new belt. So far so good.
- Noisy power steering pump. - Replaced it.
- Noisy power steering pump. - Living with it.
- Rear spring shackle rusted off - Had it repaired.
- Ball Joings - Replaced them.
- Front stabilizer bar link - Repaired.
- Check engine light - O2 sensor from my reader.
- Power Steering oil cooler leaking - Removed.
- E-Brake cable snapped - Replaced.

New:
- Driveshaft? clunking - This just started and its driving me round the bend. Removed the brake drums last week thinking that the brake shoes were loose. Didn't see anything out of place or wrong. Then it seemed to be great for a couple of days. Now it back and it also seems like the back brakes are sticking.
- High speed vibration at around 120km/h - need to check out the recommended greasing of the slip yoke and grease fitting that was recommended by prefab08.
- Clutch pedal squeak - very annoying. Any ideas?

Sure we have problems with our Rangers but not any more or less than any other vehicle. Just check their forums!
 

Doofy

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My credo
Shit Happens...Then You Die.
On my '98...not a single problem other than a parasitic power drain on the battery. Damn fine little truck!
 

matthewbajerski

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11' has a recall on the tail lights
 

jeffy56

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Newer Ranger Problems

25 yrs with Rangers. '87 & '94 before this one. Still have the '94. 4.5 months into a used '02, xl, 3.0/auto, A/C, 2x.

Was a security truck, low (95k) miles but a lot of door & seat wear. Not to hard to lift the seat cover and put another inch of hi-density foam in.

Driver side seat belt buckles are a problem (bolted to seat frame). After a lot of wear they won't stay latched and the sensor is tied to the air bag system. The OEM buckle (w/switch) is now permanently latched under the seat with a generic/passenger/kid replacement installed for real use.

Power steering fluid & pump seems to take more of a beating with the rack & pinion. Noisy pump. Installed petcock in return line to change a some fluid out with every engine oil change. Pump happier.

Front suspension bushings needed refresh, not really DIY. Needs alignment.

While chasing a rough idle issue I just replaced cam synchro because of what I had read and not knowing the history of this motor. (replaced IAC no help, ongoing). My old synchro was tighter than the new Chinese ones, obviously go Motocraft. Rock Auto seems to have a real good price on those. Tech article here says 10° ATDC, all other sources, some FORD copywrited, say right at TDC. With tool of course. A little explanation might help here. One can wing it and it may be OK because those gear teeth are course, but the relationship of the syncho body, flag position, & crank position, determines the rotational relationship of the sensor to the flag in the syncho. Barely found "bump", with line, for crank timing on cover near sensor. Those sensor teeth do not perfectly line up with the timing marks. I used the timing marks, seems to run good & strong. Can get picks if needed.

Noticed radiator & heater hoses are now "grafted" at a couple of points, along with 2 manifold hoses. Looks like future trouble.

Dash illumination, those gauge bulbs are special and tricky. Most web sites will sell you a bulb that won't work. It has a special twist in mount that seems integral. On going.

In a couple of months I intend to install an after market cruise control. I think I have found one that will essentially plug n play. Mounting the servo will be the tricky part.

Since many members are younger with less experience, their first vehicle maybe, I see some of the posts lack basic automotive electrical knowledge. Maybe a few rules & technique post.

Head light lenses. Use plexiglass cleaner to clear them up. 1 small can will last years.
 

joey7478

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In my area the rear frames rust out real bad.
 

killj0y

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stupid power steering in mine went out, kinda. plenty of power steering fluid but it will only work if I rev the engine a bit.

Dome/door ajar light.

and tail gate wont latch sometimes, I just keep some wd-40 in the cab and that will fix it for a while.
Try lithium grease instead, it well last longer and not turn to goo like wd40
 

oscardesker

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Here are some additions to common problems and will help on how to overcome fear in driving 4x4:

1. Crack on Chassis that is common due to overload
2. water contamination from wading of the differentials, gearbox, transfer case etc
3. Rust on bottom of doors and tailgates because of water and mud
4. Sagging of springs on suspensions
 

eutychus

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Just found this thread.

My 2010 4x4, 4.0L automatic has an odd "thrumming" noise at idle after the engine is warmed up.

In Park and Neutral, no noise.

But in Reverse or Drive, "thrumming" noise.

I'm taking it in Tuesday to the dealer (29,000 miles, still under warranty) to have it looked at. I'll come back and post an update after the dealer is done with it.

Any thoughts on the cause of this?
 

MastuhWaffles

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Really all I can say is that there's just too much plastic... It breaks a lot, doubt that's going to change.
 

deadRaven

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id say since there are so many DIYers here, after cranking the t-bars theres always an alignment problem. a walk through would be great if its not too complex or need of special calibration tools.
 

countryboy69

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i had both of my rear leaf spring shackle mounts break, rusted off (michigan weather) was a bitch to get off cuz they are riveted to the frame had to use a air chizzel and a grinder to get em off after that it was smooth sailing, Note: had to take the spare out from under to get to it.

Now i have a parasitic draw on fuse 26 i havent found the problem yet though, not sure if it is common but ill find out.
 

countryboy69

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got another question, Why does my 2000 ranger with a 3.0 get 10 mpg.... i did a full tune up and it still sucks?
 

MastuhWaffles

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id say since there are so many DIYers here, after cranking the t-bars theres always an alignment problem. a walk through would be great if its not too complex or need of special calibration tools.
Just take it too an auto shop that does alignments, I maxed out my T-Bars, took it too Firestone, and now it's great.
 

cp2295

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I know that the balljoints go bad.
also the camshaft position sensor gear is made out of nylon and so that can go bad. i've heard if you hear a ticking noise (similar to a lifter tick) then don't ignore as the gear maybe is going out. IMMEDIATELY replace it.. how the thing works is the camshaft, and the sensor have hypoid gears. The camshaft being spun also spins the sensors gear, and in turn it spins a little metal tab at the top which the computer reads and it tells the pcm when to fire the spark plugs, and when to inject the fuel. Anyways, there is a shaft that goes downwards from the sensor and it actuates the oil pump.. so if you neglect to replace this gear, you will have no oil pressure, and a dead engine in seconds.

Okay i know that sounds terrible, but just keep up on maintenance (i replace mine every 50,000 miles just to be safe), only costs $50. Another thing that goes bad on all rangers is the hose that connects where you pump the gas into the tank. If you notice a leak & smell gas everytime you pump (when leaving/done pumping) then it's probably that.

I have a 3.0 with 175,000 and it's a strong engine, won't die anytime soon. i know people with a 4.0, and 2.5 with 250,000+ on it and still running strong. Just keep up on oil changes and such.
 


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