2.3 rough running when cold


Gw1

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Rebuilt engine, new pcm, Icm, egr valve, egr sensor, plugs, wires, coil packs, iac, maf, ect, iat, pcv. Fuel filter new, fuel pressure regulator is new. Cannot find any vacuum leaks. Runs fine after about ten minutes or so of driving, will idle fine after start up unless you you step on the gas, then it runs terrible. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 


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RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

Your description reads like the "choke" is not working when engine is cold

When started cold does the idle stay high, above 1,100 RPMs?
If so then ECT sensor and IAC Valve are working at least partially

All gasoline engines need to be "choked" when cold, with fuel injection the computer has to do this, higher idle and Richer fuel mix is choke mode, also called Open Loop when engine is cold
ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor is what tells computer it needs to Choke the engine
There are TWO ECT devices on 1992 2.3l
ECT sender is just for the dash board temp gauge, its located drivers side of engine toward the back, oil pressure sender is also there

1992 ECT sensor should be at the front of the engine, higher up, maybe on a heater hose

Sender is a 12volt resistor
Sensor is a 5volt resistor
So not interchangeable


ECT sensor gets 5volts from computer and sends back 3volts when cold say 65degF, then volts drop to under 1volt when coolant is 190degF, warmed up

Graph and voltages here: https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/vra/images/a12842b.gif

You can use an OHM or Volt Meter to test it


And just generally, NEW means NEVER TESTED.............................15-20 years ago it meant it was "tested and works", not any more
We all wanted cheaper parts, so we got them, lol, there is no more testing because thats labor and thats what costs the money not the part.
So never ever.......ever, think a new part works as it should out of the box

You can buy "tested parts", Ford insists all parts are tested, so a Motorcraft part will most likely be good out of the box, but................. expensive, and thats why they are expensive
 
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Gw1

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Thanks for info... it does not stay at high idle when cold very rough when driving; the new iac and ect sensor unfortunately were part store brands ect. not motorcraft... I will check the voltage on the ect...
 

RonD

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Reads like computer doesn't "know" engine is cold so not applying the Choke

Anyone from the old Carb days will know what thats like, lol, when choke isn't working, barely runs until it warms up
 

Trippy

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I'm dealing with the same demon at this time. Not thread jacking, just trying to be useful. https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/2-3-stalls-during-warmup.182472/

And just generally, NEW means NEVER TESTED.............................15-20 years ago it meant it was "tested and works", not any more
We all wanted cheaper parts, so we got them, lol, there is no more testing because thats labor and thats what costs the money not the part.
So never ever.......ever, think a new part works as it should out of the box
Start with the basics.
-Any Codes? even if the CEL is not on there might be codes stored that can be useful on the diagnosis.
-I would make sure that you are getting battery voltage at the IAC connector with the key on.
-Test the IAC. I got a dud from the parts store earlier.
-Test your TPS
-make sure you are getting spark to ALL the wires when running.
-Test Fuel pressure.

Some useful resources:
 
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Gw1

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Mine turned out to be due to a bad wire. Replaced that and runs worlds better. I’m appreciating that RonD, got me thinking in right direction. (To easy to assume new is good or part really is the correct one just cause computer said it is)
 

Trippy

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Just curious. Which wire?
 


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