- Joined
- Jul 20, 2019
- Messages
- 18
- Reaction score
- 2
- Points
- 3
- Location
- Alabama
- Vehicle Year
- 1994
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger
- Engine Type
- 2.3 (4 Cylinder)
- Transmission
- Manual
- 2WD / 4WD
- 2WD
- Tire Size
- 235 75 R15
My 1994 Ranger with a 2.3 Manual will stall and sometimes die during the warm up procedure if I hit the gas pedal, forcing me to have to warm it up to operating temperature before driving it. After it reaches operating temperature it has no issues as far as I can tell.
The previous owner abused it terribly and destroyed the head and block beyond repair. I'm not a fan of shooting the parts cannon at vehicles. All the components that were replaced failed a test or were damaged previously.
For Reference I'm using a Snap-On Solus Ultra with the EEC-iv adapter.
What I have replaced so far (Relevant to Drivability Concern):
-New Engine (Reman ATK-DFD4)
-ICM (BWD)
-DPFE w/connector (Motorcraft)
-EGR Valve (Standard)
-02 Sensor (Denso)
-ECT w/connector (Motorcraft)
-Thermostat (Motorcraft)
-Ignition Coils (Motorcraft)
-Spark Plugs (Motorcraft)
-Spark Plug Wires (Motorcraft)
-IAC (Standard)
-DPFE Hoses (Gates)
-All intake and Exhaust Gaskets (Felpro)
-Fuel Pump (Spectra)
-Fuel Filter (Fram)
-PCV (Motorcraft)
-All new exhaust parts except the exhaust manifold.
Serviced items:
-Cleaned and tested MAF (Both with Multimeter and Scan Tool)
-Cleaned Throttle Body and all Passages
-Tested TPS (Both with Multimeter and Scan Tool)
-EVR (Tested resistance and Signal with Multimeter)
Suspect Items:
-IAT
It reads 50F at start up and slowly creeps to 104 after engine reaches operating temp. Likes to hang out about 1.5-2 volts above ECT. According to AllData that is still within spec.
I have sprayed all around the intake manifold, hoses and components attached to it to see if I can find a leak.
I have performed the KOER procedure and no codes are found. Wiggle test shows that connectors are good.
Vacuum will bounce around between 20 and 15 during the warm up procedure and will stabilize after warm up at around 18.
Sorry for the long post, I try to be thorough. Maybe someone can chime in and guide me in the right direction.
Thank you for taking the time to read this really long post
The previous owner abused it terribly and destroyed the head and block beyond repair. I'm not a fan of shooting the parts cannon at vehicles. All the components that were replaced failed a test or were damaged previously.
For Reference I'm using a Snap-On Solus Ultra with the EEC-iv adapter.
What I have replaced so far (Relevant to Drivability Concern):
-New Engine (Reman ATK-DFD4)
-ICM (BWD)
-DPFE w/connector (Motorcraft)
-EGR Valve (Standard)
-02 Sensor (Denso)
-ECT w/connector (Motorcraft)
-Thermostat (Motorcraft)
-Ignition Coils (Motorcraft)
-Spark Plugs (Motorcraft)
-Spark Plug Wires (Motorcraft)
-IAC (Standard)
-DPFE Hoses (Gates)
-All intake and Exhaust Gaskets (Felpro)
-Fuel Pump (Spectra)
-Fuel Filter (Fram)
-PCV (Motorcraft)
-All new exhaust parts except the exhaust manifold.
Serviced items:
-Cleaned and tested MAF (Both with Multimeter and Scan Tool)
-Cleaned Throttle Body and all Passages
-Tested TPS (Both with Multimeter and Scan Tool)
-EVR (Tested resistance and Signal with Multimeter)
Suspect Items:
-IAT
It reads 50F at start up and slowly creeps to 104 after engine reaches operating temp. Likes to hang out about 1.5-2 volts above ECT. According to AllData that is still within spec.
I have sprayed all around the intake manifold, hoses and components attached to it to see if I can find a leak.
I have performed the KOER procedure and no codes are found. Wiggle test shows that connectors are good.
Vacuum will bounce around between 20 and 15 during the warm up procedure and will stabilize after warm up at around 18.
Sorry for the long post, I try to be thorough. Maybe someone can chime in and guide me in the right direction.
Thank you for taking the time to read this really long post