2.9 engine install


Kuper

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So I pulled the valve covers didn’t find anything wrong but drained the oil
And seen quite a few specs of metal in the oil and pulled the oil pan and checked the rod bearings and there is play in them I’m taking a break right at the moment but I can get them to wiggle front to back and somewhat up and Down I don’t think there should be play like that?
 


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Kuper

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Here is a couple pictures of my rod bearings that are shot I’m thinking of just cleaning up the crank and throw in some new bearings hopefully last 6 months or more?
 

BrutalPanda

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I did not touch my crank when I rebuilt my motor. As long as you have no pitting/scratches on the crank and it plastigauges out you should be okay. Although it may be smart to give it a "break in period" to allow the bearings and crank to work together. It should work out in your favor. I was also taught that the mains live twice the life as the rod bearings. So you may want to look into those being the rod bearings look that wiped. On the plus side, the bearings aren't bad to install and pretty cheap

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
 

Kuper

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Hey guys and gals just an update I spent my weekend putting in some rod bearings std size I touched up the journals and the caps with some 500 grit
I followed up by cleaning wiping all surfaces with a clean microfiber and carb cleaner then blowing out the holes in crank and put some assembly lube on bearings. I do feel like it would have been easier pulling the motor out again. I took off the top intake distributor cap .... removed the engine mount nuts and jacked it up like I read from this site it worked but yeah I recommend pulling the engine if you want better access. I did this to buy me some time it may not be the corrrect way to take care of the problem but needed it up and running. I will let you guys know how it holds up hopefully a while.
 

Kuper

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Hi everyone it has almost been a whole year since I did put in the rod bearings my truck has made it around town and done dump runs but it has been knocking once warmed up I do believe the power punch I added helped to it surviving a little while.
but I wanted to update that I was able to get by for a while. I do have a couple of 2.9 blocks around. I want to go through and see which is better and I may try and put in place of the current engine. I am not suggesting anyone do what I did but if you are on a budget and need to get by for a while then by all means get it on the road. After pulling the engine 2 times I really hope to make the right move we will see? I may get a bunch of face palms responses if I do what I am thinking about with the ranger.
 

Kuper

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I got one of my short blocks on the engine stand and started checking things out with my telescopic gauge in the bore looking pretty good no ridge inside.
just slightly over 3.66 nothing major when I took the multiple measurements. I started by pulling lifters look to be in decent shape and I pulled the cam and on one of the lobes I can catch a fingernail and the first bearing looked worn not grooves but goldish yellow color. I inspected the rod bearings and they look good, have not checked the mains I am sure they are fine. This has me thinking on the cost a re-ring kit is a 120ish and if I need a cam kit w/ bearings probably also a oil pump as well. the master kit is $450 but If I put that much into it I might as well have it done right by the machine shop which I checked be roughly $500 in work I may as well throw on some new heads as well and you see what I am getting at. I did notice a 4.0 used for $450 but would need a radiator, wiring and messing with under the dash I heard it is easy I don't know about that? I have an auto trans which who knows if I put it behind the 4.0 wear it out quicker.

I could check to see how my cam looks in my other engine it only had 112k miles but had a head gasket failure not sure if it wiped out the bearings and possibly the cam is ruined.


I would love a 5.0 in the ranger, I had a Luv with a 350 and it was awesome but that is not in the budget really right now.

I would like to keep it lower than $500
 

Kuper

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i Was going for a re ring but I opted for new cam, bearings and lifters as well. I tested in one bore my ring gaps for std. size and the top of the bore was at .022 and the bottom was at .019 I believe that is in spec according to Haynes manual. I am trying not to spend as much as I have to.
6C8843D7-35F3-4763-A7B2-5582261DBA1A.jpeg
44216101-32BF-46E2-B552-54B08B593716.jpeg


Pistons for the most part still have machine surface showing.
 

Kuper

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I have a 3-4” micrometer coming in the mail I was measuring with digital calipers on my telescopic gauge I will re do this with the right tool. My eBay cam kit showed up with lifters opened up rolling around I am hoping they fix this as on has a nick on them.
 

Kuper

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It took a while to get used to the micrometer and telescopic gauge measuring the bores but they were in spec. I cleaned most of the threads on the block and ran ball hone through the cylinders. I have a lot more cleaning to do on the pistons.
5AFEF857-7861-4C98-BC06-55782FE65F68.jpeg
E33E4F51-DA29-49A1-BBC2-FAFFDA38ADC5.jpeg
 

Kuper

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So it has been a while since I posted but I have finally installed the 2.9 about a week ago. she is running great I Only need to chase down some exhaust leaks. I invested maybe 5-600 bucks and that’s including the machine shop fees and I guess I didn’t include the tool costs but hey I own those now and if need be sell a couple of them but why?

$130 Cam w bearings and lifters
$89 Re Ring kit with rod and main bearings
$20 Fel Pro head gasket
$35 Fel Pro Head bolts
$14 Permadry valve cover gaskets
$35 Oil pump
$36 Flexplate
$3 New o ring for oil filter adapter
$20 zddp additive
$189 machine shop ( hot tank, crank polish, rod resized and cam bearing install)
$14 oil
$16 antifreeze
$5 engine paint



Yeah I bought a few other parts suspension, o2 sensor and fuel injector rebuild kit...

Tools

Ball hone correct size and grit
Engine hoist and stand
Cam bearing tool ( I did have the shop put bearings in but I took old ones out)
All types of metric wrenches and sockets
HF snap gauges
China micrometers
Thread chaser


But I just want to encourage others that it is possible to do on a budget you just have to research and plan. Please do better than me and be more organized tagging and bagging and take plenty of pictures. Be patient and get ready to get dirty!
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Thanks for the update.
Good job!
 

RobbieD

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Toonces drives a Ranger . . . . just not very well.
Agreed; thanks for keeping this updated. Good job, in both figuring out what needed done, and in getting it done. I hope that your efforts are rewarded with many trouble-free miles with this engine, and good luck!
 

Kuper

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So update today I went to change the oil and it has been less than 100 miles and oil has far too many specs of metal in the oil drain pan than I would liked to have seen.

No unusual noises coming from the engine it sounds great... but is this a false tale from what lies within. I do not have a snap shot of the catch pan but I can take a pic of the oil filter findings see what you all think?
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Perhaps a sample to Blackstone labs for analysis? Contact them and ask if they want this oil or the next change or both?
 


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