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2.9 intermittent spark from coil!!?


Paulos

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Is your ignition module black or gray? It should be gray.
You cut out the IDM resistor? Why? I believe that resistor has something to do with the coil and the ECM. See this thread. I suspect the sketchy wiring you fixed, and maybe a black ignition module.
 


rusty ol ranger

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Is your ignition module black or gray? It should be gray.
You cut out the IDM resistor? Why? I believe that resistor has something to do with the coil and the ECM. See this thread. I suspect the sketchy wiring you fixed, and maybe a black ignition module.
If he cut out the IDM isnt that what tells the ECM what RPM the engine is at?

Its pretty important.....
 

Chuckc

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How does it run with the spout connector disconnected?

What is.your base timing set to?
Seems to run better without spout connector.. and base timing is 10d but seems I have to turn distributer untill ignition module is almost hitting valve cover to get it to 10d which does not seem right..
 

rusty ol ranger

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Seems to run better without spout connector.. and base timing is 10d but seems I have to turn distributer untill ignition module is almost hitting valve cover to get it to 10d which does not seem right..
Has the distributor been removed?
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Can almost promise you that your distributor is off by one tooth.
 

Chuckc

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Can almost promise you that your distributor is off by one tooth.
Will see if I can get it any closer today!
Can almost promise you that your distributor is off by one tooth.
took distributer off again moved over one spot pointing just a bit more towards firewall and fires up went threw high idle.. which it hasn’t done that in a wile thought everything was good besides it cutting off once or twice and re starting set base timing spout connector out to 10d plug in spit connector and hit throttle falls on face and dies...
 

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SPOUT connector is the "Vacuum advance" for electronic ignitions

So it should "fall on its face" if you try to accelerate very fast, with it disconnected

You can accelerate slowly, without SPOUT, the TFI module/distributor can do RPM advance
 

rusty ol ranger

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Yes removed And installed no less than 10 times now
Pull the #1 spark plug.
Run it to TDC on the compression stroke.
Pull the distributor, set rotor underneath the #1 position on the distributor cap, reinstall distributor.
Remove SPOUT, use timing light to fine tune it to 10* BTDC.

Do this, go from there.
 

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Just to add to ^^^

You can put distributor housing and #1 on the cap where it allows movement in both directions without hitting the firewall and THEN install with rotor at #1
 

Chuckc

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SPOUT connector is the "Vacuum advance" for electronic ignitions

So it should "fall on its face" if you try to accelerate very fast, with it disconnected

You can accelerate slowly, without SPOUT, the TFI module/distributor can do RPM advance
Falls on its face with spout connector in also
 

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Could be one of 3 things
1. SPOUT, or more precisely lack of SPOUT signal from Computer(PCM)
2. TPS(throttle position sensor), this gives the PCM the "heads up" that throttle has been opened quickly so OPEN injectors wide, lol, dump fuel in
3. PCM, computer is center stage on both of these, it reads TPS and then opens injector more, also passes on spark advance change(SPOUT) needed for acceleration

MAP sensor reads vacuum in intake but its slower to respond than TPS to throttle changes, which is why there is a TPS
All fuel injected engines have an "air flow sensor", MAP or MAF, sometime both, and they both are slow to react to changes in flow or pressure
There is no reason for a TPS except for instant acceleration and for deceleration(PCM turn injectors OFF to save fuel when decelerating)

Think of it as the Accelerator pump on a carb, when it was broken engine would stumble when you pressed down of the gas pedal, engine needed the squirt of gasoline instantly from the accelerator pump, before Jets could catch up with higher air flow
 

Chuckc

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Pull the #1 spark plug.
Run it to TDC on the compression stroke.
Pull the distributor, set rotor underneath the #1 position on the distributor cap, reinstall distributor.
Remove SPOUT, use timing light to fine tune it to 10* BTDC.

Do this, go from there.
Have done this multiple times used to use compression tester to find compression stroke but rotor only points to #1 on compression stroke anyways so now I just take off distributer cap and watch but I’ve had distributor go out replaced that had bad tfi module on new distributor changed that now it is idling good can maybe even drive if I baby it and idle down the street but I’m sure I have tried multiple positions even seconds guessed myself when I know it’s pointing directly at #1 on cap and have went one tooth to left and one tooth to right and never any better.. I have made sure flywheel damper has not slipped and tested piston #1 is at the top at tdc with screw driver in plug hole I’m really at a stand still here
 

Chuckc

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Could be one of 3 things
1. SPOUT, or more precisely lack of SPOUT signal from Computer(PCM)
2. TPS(throttle position sensor), this gives the PCM the "heads up" that throttle has been opened quickly so OPEN injectors wide, lol, dump fuel in
3. PCM, computer is center stage on both of these, it reads TPS and then opens injector more, also passes on spark advance change(SPOUT) needed for acceleration

MAP sensor reads vacuum in intake but its slower to respond than TPS to throttle changes, which is why there is a TPS
All fuel injected engines have an "air flow sensor", MAP or MAF, sometime both, and they both are slow to react to changes in flow or pressure
There is no reason for a TPS except for instant acceleration and for deceleration(PCM turn injectors OFF to save fuel when decelerating)

Think of it as the Accelerator pump on a carb, when it was broken engine would stumble when you pressed down of the gas pedal, engine needed the squirt of gasoline instantly from the accelerator pump, before Jets could catch up with higher air flow
Engine has new ecm, new map, new throttle position sensor
 

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