2.9 ???? Now What

[1987 DANGER RANGER]

I have an 1987 4x4 which came stock with a 2.3 5sp man. 2nd motor was 2.9 unsure of who put the motor in. 3rd is a 2.9 from I beleve a B2 88 or 89. The problems I am have with the motor well 1st a valve which sticks and gives a dead cyclinder from time to time. I can drive the truck cold for about three blocks then I'll be driving and it feels like someone grabbes ahold of the crank and holds as tight has they can, just loses power. The wiring harness has a few extra pieces and where not sure why. There is also a sweet smell of maybe fuel after you drive the truck. Its got new plugs wires cap rotor.

Just picked up a 87 with a stock 2.9/auto took the motor and whole wire harness. Will the harness give me any problems since it came from an auto and going to a manual. I took the tps from the new 2.9 and put it in the old running motor, cause the two motors did not have the same tps. The motor out of the B2 used a gray plug and the ranger used a black plug. The harness in the running truck had both the gray and blk plug looked factory.

While I have the new 2.9 out is there any really cheep power mods because Iam running 31's with stock gears (unk what ratio) and well you do the math not much power. Sorry the post is so long but I have no wear else to turn I need to get a decent running 2.9 in the truck unitill I can afford a 5.0 swap $$$.
thanks Emil

 

[rusty ol ranger]

A sweet smell? Thats not good. That usually indicated burning antifreeze, from one of two causes, a blown head gasket, or cracked head. Usually a head on a 2.9L.

I dont think the harness would be an issue, worst case scenario you have a check engine light, which shouldnt be an issue on an 87.

There really are no performance mods for a 2.9L. The best thing to do is throwout your stock gearing and regear it to like 4.11.

later,
Dustin

 

[1987 DANGER RANGER]

Thanks for the reply....
If the it was buring antifreeze would the radiator bubble when you pulled the cap off while running??
I forgot to mention I belive the stock fule pump may be out or atleast not working cause there is an aftermarket one on the frame rail by the back of the engine.
I was reading on hear somewhere that you could port the intake becasue the ports do not line up. Is this true.
What size of gears whould I run I have 31's but I want to run 33's someday. What you be the best place to purhcase them. Also could you advise what size of axles I have I belive 7.5.
Could I be putting to much fuel into the engine.

 

[Hahnsb2]

Are you sure it's an aftermarket pump? First gens have 2 pumps, one in the tank and one on the frame. As far as gears go, you'll want 4.56s or 4.88s for 33s, you have a d28 up front but you will want a d35 to handle 33s. The 7.5 is fairly stout especialy if you install a locker because the spider gears are the weak spot.

 

[1987 DANGER RANGER]

Thanks where does the D35 come from. Does the pump in the tank prime. The pump on the frame rail is loud and runs all the time as soon as you turn the key on. Any imput on cleaning up the intake ports.

 

[Hahnsb2]

I believe the pump on the frame is only supposed to go on for like 3 seconds when you turn the key on untill you start the rig, sounds like someone ran into a problem and wired it to stay on all the time, we had a parts rig that was like that when we got it... As far as the d35, 91-94 explorers have them, 90 B2s have them, 90-97 rangers have them although some 3.0 and 2.3 rangers had a d28/35 hybrid.

 

[1987 DANGER RANGER]

Hey thanks I will look at the fuel pump and see how its wired. I am not sure if you read the first post about the engine running good for a while (few blocks) then feeling like someone grabbed the motor and tried to stop it with there hands. Could I be putting too much fuel towars the motor, and if so would a pressure test give me the anwser. What is the fuel pressure run?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Rustys fuel pump is wired to run all the time.

Its not really an issue unless you leave the key on.

If your coolant is bubbling thats a sure sign its leaking compression into the water jackets, either through a head gasket, or blown head. Do you have antifreeze in the oil? If it looks "snotty" then you do.

later,
Dustin

 

[holyford86]

the fuel pump on the rail runs when the engine is running, it will run for 2-3 seconds when you turn the key to pressurize the system. Fuel pressure should be 32-35 psi at idle. Without scanning the computer for codes you are taking shots in the dark just throwing random parts at it probably won't fix the problem but you might get lucky although it is unlikely.

 

[1987 DANGER RANGER]

I know OBD1 are about a reliable as a $20 set of tires, but even with the check engine light not on could there still be codes on the computer.

 

[Psychopete]

I know OBD1 are about a reliable as a $20 set of tires, but even with the check engine light not on could there still be codes on the computer.

Interestingly enough, I always buy $24.99 used tires from a shop here in town. And you know what, they're actually warrantied and you generally get a tire in decent shape for cheap. I'm also helping with waste since the still decent tire that "old man river" decided to replace on his Grand Marquis still had many many miles before they were un-useable.

Yes. The PCM has stored memory of codes that tripped your CEL. I wouldn't rely on the CEL actually working... From the sounds of your wiring, I don't know how feasible pulling codes is.

Sounds like a/f mixture problems with your engine power degradiation issue. When it does this, is the engine temp. >= 160 degrees? If it's only doing this is closed loop, (and since it's getting cold, and is it taking longer), you can take a shot in the dark by blindly unhooking the o2 sensor (passenger side, down in the exhaust collector). You will probably need to tie strap it to something so that it doesn't melt against your exhaust manifold. If you find that the problem goes away, there's a good chance there's something wrong the sensor or with it's circuit (it will need replaced). If it doesn't, simply plug it back in and move on to something else (ECT?).

Before digging into the electrical, you might start with a simple compression test and verify the engine is in good mechanical condition, this could ultimately be the problem. If it's been doing this for a while, usually a plug will tell the tale.

Pete