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2.9L + Turbo = ?




Sheetbox

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Im gonna try and fit the turbo off a 7.2 powerstroke to my 2.9, hahaha,
 

chadsworth2

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No offense intended but I think you wasted a lot of money.

The clutch wasn't necessary. The forged pistons weren't necessary. I don't know how you are gonna control or use the injectors. The exhaust will almost all be scrapped if you go to a turbo, and if you don't, you've killed the torque by going to such a large exhaust system.

This is why I turbo'd mine. To build it normally aspirated it woulda been cantankerous requiring premium fuel and tuning that isn't possible without a replacement stand alone injection system. And then it woulda honestly made very little added power. And what would be added would be way up the power band, and not terribly useful.

The only non stock parts on my truck are an FMU, boost retard, fuel pumps, the turbo and turbo oil pump. Stock computer, injectors, clutch, pistons etc. My truck has like 190K on it. The cylinders are worn, but not ragged. The heads are new with necked down valves. That's it.

It makes PLENTY of power. And it is SO drivable. And if I drive it not like a madman the gas mileage is better! I got like 28 MPG going to Carlisle in a convoy.

It flies thru emissions testing too. Because when it is not in the boost, it is bone stock and in good mechanical repair.

My combo has been up here for years, and no one notices it or copies it. If anyone here had ridden in it, there would be 50 like mine. It's too easy, and works.

Like I said, it is completely ignored on the Carlisle showfield. I don't even take it there anymore.
Where can I find all the details of this turbo setup on your 2.9L GT ranger DCinDC?
I have a 87 Ranger with a 2.9L that has 326K miles on it. I purchased a remanufactured Long block which is waiting for me to have time to install.
My reasoning for considering a turbo... I daily drive this Ranger, its 4x4 and lifted with 32 inch tires, I have swapped the gears for 4.10. I axle swapped 94 front TTB in and 98 Explorer 8.8 already. However the old worn out 2.9 does not do well in the mountains. I live in Denver Colorado at 5280 feet above sea level and when I head up to the 4x4 trails I sometimes take I-70. when doing so, I have my foot buried in the floor boards in 3rd gear and barely have enough engine to keep 45mph.
My number one goal for adding a turbo is for improved highway performance on my way to and from 4x4 trails and the ski hills.
when off roading the current 2.9 l has plenty of low end torque to get me through the rocky and steep trail systems when I am in low range.

My thought are this...
1- I wait to swap the new engine in and do the fitup and testing of your turbo combo on the old worn out 2.9. This way if i break it.... I dont care so much
2-Install the remanufacture 2.9 and see if having a fresh engine gains me enough power back that I dont feel the turbo is necessary.
3- if I think the turbo is still necessary Id like to install something simple and in reasonable price range. Im not trying to blow the doors of stangs... I just want mid range power up here at my crazy elevation of living.

Is it possible to add the highway power without sacrificing to much of my low RPM torque?
Thoughts or Suggestions for this Or a Link to a Thread thats better suited for this question would be great.
Thanks all
If you're a Troll, Sinic, Or Otherwise negative Nancy.... Your opinions are not welcome
 

DavisRanger

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So, I just rebuilt my 2.9L. It’s bored +40 and stroked and I put an RV cam in it. The motor literally has only 2000 miles on it as of today. I’m seriously considering putting a turbo on it. I was originally going to super charge it, but figuring out the mounting is just not what I want to do. I plan to turbo within the next year.

I should add, my cooling system is far from stock, and I’m currently running without a thermostat.

I think I’m probably sitting at about 160-170hp right now with all the upgrades I’ve done (it’s really snappy). I’m trying to break the 200hp mark. Are there any manifolds/turbo’s that will bolt on from other years/motors, or am I stuck on eBay trying to piece this thing together and fabricating?
 

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Where did you source the stroker crank?
 

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4.0 crank with compatible rods and pistons brings displacement up to 3.5l or so.

I'm interested as well. I've though about doing the same.
 

DavisRanger

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Where did you source the stroker crank?
Honestly couldn’t tell you, the machinist I took it to ordered all the internals for it. When I dropped it off I told him, I want more power lol. When I picked it up, I had the goodies. It wasn’t cheap, I will say that. I’ll get in contact with him and find out where he found it.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Honestly couldn’t tell you, the machinist I took it to ordered all the internals for it. When I dropped it off I told him, I want more power lol. When I picked it up, I had the goodies. It wasn’t cheap, I will say that. I’ll get in contact with him and find out where he found it.
Never had a chance to ask, but did you wind up using cast or forged pistons? If forged, where did you source yours??
 

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Never had a chance to ask, but did you wind up using cast or forged pistons? If forged, where did you source yours??
I wound up with cast, the block was in the shop for 6 weeks, I was itching to get it back. Didn’t want him spending more time trying to find the Pistons. Lol
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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I'm STILL trying to find a machine shop to trim my rods to fit the Trinity pistons. Frustrating staring at everything i need to finish it and being unable.
 

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I'm STILL trying to find a machine shop to trim my rods to fit the Trinity pistons. Frustrating staring at everything i need to finish it and being unable.
Unfortunately... the right guy for that job is most likely the most expensive with the longest turn around time.

What exactly are you trimming? Small end width? I use to have a guy that was weened from the bottle in a fully equipped machine shop. I sure miss my old connections in Michigan, I'm not sure I can even contact him...
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Unfortunately... the right guy for that job is most likely the most expensive with the longest turn around time.

What exactly are you trimming? Small end width? I use to have a guy that was weened from the bottle in a fully equipped machine shop. I sure miss my old connections in Michigan, I'm not sure I can even contact him...
Exactly what I need to have done. 5.400 302 rods fit the 2.9 crank with the correct bearing, but they need to have 0.002 shaved off the sides of the big end.

The small end needs much more cut from the sides of them, likely 0.25+ and a set of bushings need to be made or purchased to size the 0.912 rods to the 0.866 pins.
 

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I think the closest thing you could use is those honda or Hyundai rods I sent you. I think I sent you the bearings I found also.
Exactly what I need to have done. 5.400 302 rods fit the 2.9 crank with the correct bearing, but they need to have 0.002 shaved off the sides of the big end.

The small end needs much more cut from the sides of them, likely 0.25+ and a set of bushings need to be made or purchased to size the 0.912 rods to the 0.866 pins.
 

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