2.9l V6 Acting Really Funny After Reassembly

[ShodMermaid336]

Hey Everyone,
I have a 1988 Ranger Xlt (2.9l v6 w/ A4ld; 2wd) that I bought maybe a year ago, and I have taken my sweet time to work on it. When I got it, it was blowing smoke as if it was burning coolant,as well as it was revving really high to shift(pretty sure that's the trans though).
I took the upper intake off and everything associated( I.E. Fuel rail, distributor, injectors,valve covers, as well as the blower fan and ac system, power steering pump, and various sensors and vacuum hoses)

I replaced the lower intake manifold gasket( it was broken), and reassembled everything to my best knowledge ( i didn't mark the fuel injector pigtails however, like an idiot)

TL: DR
My Engine runs very poorly, Sounds off time but also misfiring, compression seems fine, tried swapping injector pigtails, i think I've found the combination its meant to be in.
It starts, Runs poor, will die if you don't give gas after about 20 seconds, If you cover a vacuum port it dies, and as you rotate the distributor it sounds different(maybe better, I dont know)

Please help, I've got no idea whats wrong, and I'd love to daily drive this and restore it
Note:
There is no coolant in the engine/ Cooling system, I haven't run it for more than 30 seconds at a time. Also plug wires are new. Has fuel pressure as well.


Video of the Engine Running:

 

[RonD]

Check firing order from EACH spark plug to cap, then check it again, third times a charm, but forth time gets it done

Speaking from experience, when "I KNOW" firing order is correct, "STOP ASKING!!!, and it wasn't, lol


IAC Valve sets idle air flow, is it working?
You can unbolt it from upper intake, turn on the key
Plug in its 2 wire connector and you should see the valve inside move to full open, only moves 3/8" or so
Unplug wires and it will close, repeat as need to make sure it is working
If not test voltage on the 2 wires, key on should be 12volts
IAC Valve OHM test should be under 30ohms, more like 10ohms

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Is it still smoking and shifting funny?

Pull the vaccuum hose off the engine that runs down to the transmission. Check it for tranny fluid. Or hell plug the port off and let it idle a bit.

I got a feeling you got a bad modulator valve leaking ATF into the vaccuum line then its getting sucked jnto the engine.

 

[Paulos]

As far as the injector wiring is concerned, the injectors fire in two banks; 1, 4, and 2 in the first bank, and 5, 3, and 6 in the second bank. The only connectors that you can possibly get wrong are 2 and 5 (the two center ones). When you look at each pair of connectors, one will have shorter wires than the other. The connectors with the shorter wires go to the passenger side injectors, and the longer ones to the drivers side.

 

[ShodMermaid336]

Alright guys, Thank you all for the replies, just spent a little time with the truck.
Took off the intake manifold, re-installed the distributor(TDC on Piston one on compression stroke)
Re ran all the spark plugs wires, and installed a new distributor cap as well


I noticed it was wet underneath the intake (gaskets etc), smells like gas, possibly the Fuel Pressure Regulator, but not sure (and dont really want to shell out 60 bucks for a new one.)

buttoned her all up and she started, sounded a little better, but the more vacuum lines i took off, the more powerful it sounded. The engine would die if i hooked all the vacuum ports up.

I honestly have no idea what wrong, i know the timing is off, but it doesn't fix when i adjust the distributor (by hand, twisting the housing)

Side note: Realized the Map sensor was never plugged, the vacuum line was, the electronics were not however. Once i plugged her in, it didnt start anymore, unplugged it, and it still didnt start, so im not sure that is a cause of the no start or poor running.

Video of it running now:

 

[Paulos]

I would determine which vacuum line(s) cause it to die when hooked up. Process of elimination, one at a time. Check the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator for gas; rev the engine a few times, pull the vacuum line, and check it for fresh gas. And like Rusty already mentioned, check the vacuum line to the vacuum modulator on the trans to see if it's sucking up tranny fluid from the modulator. Check the connector and wiring to the MAP sensor, check every vacuum hose for vacuum leaks. And shelling out $60 for an FPR is better than an engine fire . Have you pulled codes?

 

[Shran]

You sure have a lot of potential issues here! I would be running a compression test before throwing any more parts at it. Cracked heads are very common. No reason to throw more money at a junk engine.

RockAuto has fuel pressure regulators for $25, I'd try that next if your compression test checks out. Usually it'll run with a bad one but will be hard to start when warm and it will not run well.

I suspect also that your timing is way off. You need a light to get it right.

The MAP sensor MUST be plugged in for it to run right. Maybe snag one from a junkyard to rule out a bad one.

The vacuum line thing - do you have open vacuum ports? You shouldn't. They should either be hooked up to something or capped off.

 

[RonD]

Yes, +1 ^^^

The MAP sensor "reads" vacuum level in intake manifold, so the fact that you are unplugging and plugging in vacuum hose to make it run means you have other issue.
So plug in the MAP sensor an ALL vacuum lines, then try to start engine, cranking engine makes about 2" of vacuum which the MAP needs to see for startup

Also have someone crank engine(disable spark), or use remote start, and have your hand over the intake opening, you should feel a steady vacuum pulling at your hand, it you feel a pulse of air OUT then you have a valve/rocker issue